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HighPlainsDrifter
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I guess I can't leave a nice street 351 in the Daytona, so I plan on doubling the HP.
.
302 stroked to 331 cu in.
hydraulic roller turbo cam
Scorpion roller rockers.
H beam forged rods.
forged 30 over pistons.
ARP mainstuds.
ARP head studs.
Brodix CNC full port Keith Craft Signature Heads.
Twin T3/T4 turbos.
Stainless Turbo manifolds.
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Need to fabricate exhaust to my single magnaflow sidepipes.
Fab new fuel lines,install electric pump,filter and Aeromotive boost regulator.
.
Will post more after Xmas.
Perry.
 

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HighPlainsDrifter
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have to do something over the rainy winter:)

Hi,
The little 331 should make 450 HP natually asperated.
The turbos will add 40% at low boost for cruising around = 630 and can turn them up to 80% = 810 if it's not fast E N U FF.
 

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Hi,
The little 331 should make 450 HP natually asperated.
The turbos will add 40% at low boost for cruising around = 630 and can turn them up to 80% = 810 if it's not fast E N U FF.
Are you using a stock block?
 

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954 Posts
810 HP - whatever for?? Are you planning on launching it into space??

Bill
 

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HighPlainsDrifter
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No to Negative comments

Hi,
I have been doing cars for 2 generations and thought my F5 Buddies would like a look at something custom.
I do it for Fun, why do you waste your time and money on a fiberglass car when you can drive a Volvo?
Yes I have addressed the block.
P
 

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HighPlainsDrifter
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Blow Through

Hi,
Well I plan on replacing it next season with an automatic so while I break it in the Tremec will do.
Thanks Dean,
I have a timing retard and going blow through carb, that will give me no intake restriction and about a 90* air temp drop through the carb, with atomization.
P
 

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Great Idea

If the Coupe offers anything underhood its ample space for Turbo/Exhaust plumbing. Very interested in your project. This is something that I aspire to down the road, in the meantime its a bottle in the hatch and laughing gas (N2O) down the gullet !
 

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HighPlainsDrifter
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Engine loading

Hi,
I have seen a number of turbo mustangs go 10's and even 1 into the 9's with a stock block. Compare a street 88 mustang @ 10.7 @ 127 mph and 3,100 lbs, he drives it 30 miles to the track. Now consider a cobra that is 800 lbs lighter with proper air/fuel ratios, it will put alot less stress on that engine compared to a heavy car.
A few seconds blast on the street will barely load the engine, not like a full top end run at a track.
If I was a serious racer I would go with a dart block, lenco trans, xfi efi etc . That is a waste of 15 grand for a street car.
lets see your build if you want to dis my combo.
P
 

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I have personal experence with twin turbos and a stock botton end. While getting it tuned up before taking it to get registered, I took it for a short run up the street under low boost and threw a rod. The whole bottom end is now a paper weight with alot of broken pieces in the oil pan. I'm now saving my pennies to get a 347 stroker short block with all forged parts. Hope to have it back together by spring. I think it would be best to avoid having to build it twice like I have to.
 

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Good grief?!?! That won't be any fun at all.. :evil:
I agree, absolutely no fun at all. :w00t:

Stock short blocks are cheap and plentiful in the junk yards. Run it till it breaks then plug in a new one for a couple hundred bucks. :evil:
 

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Hi,
I have seen a number of turbo mustangs go 10's and even 1 into the 9's with a stock block. Compare a street 88 mustang @ 10.7 @ 127 mph and 3,100 lbs, he drives it 30 miles to the track. Now consider a cobra that is 800 lbs lighter with proper air/fuel ratios, it will put alot less stress on that engine compared to a heavy car.
A few seconds blast on the street will barely load the engine, not like a full top end run at a track.
If I was a serious racer I would go with a dart block, lenco trans, xfi efi etc . That is a waste of 15 grand for a street car.
lets see your build if you want to dis my combo.
P
A "few second" blast adds up, and your tune will need to be spot on. With the boost levels you are contemplating, $3k for a Dart block is cheap insurance against a razor thin tune IMHO. My "combo" is a late roller block w/stock cast crank, ARP fortified rods, forged pistons all bolted down with main and head studs. With a 150hp shot of nitrous I will not exceed 500 hp nor in my experience would I want to.

I do know a little something about boost. My Lighting now with Manley rods on a stock block (forged crank) .060 over 5.4. It makes 440 at the wheels with the stock Eaton at 14 psi. While the deep skirt stock block Mod 5.4 with good rods is capable of withstanding 800 hp it is considerably more stout than an oem short deck 5.0 block.

Your motor will no doubt be impressive, and keeping it that way will require a racers attention to detail which is what it's all about IMO :)
 
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