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I am using the Ron Francis harness...I haven't looked at it yet...

Where do I need to put my grounds? How many do I need? How many should I have?

My battery is in the back. Running carb.

Marc
 

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I used the same harness. It does not provide any details in regard to how many separate ground points are needed. I put 3grounds tops together at most to spread them around a little. I grounded them to the frame behind the dash when possible ( but will be putting another ground up front). Still have the nose to complete but so far what I did seems to be working fine. I thing I have a total of 4 grounds altogether at this point. Hopes this helps.
 

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Hi Marc,

I have since moved my aft battery to the front since I installed a five-link rear suspension. But when I had it in the rear, I cabled the ground to the three-link diagonal cross member very close to the battery box. You should keep the battery gnd cable short - a foot or less long. Once there, you can count on your entire chassis as one big grounding conductor. Make as many connections to the chassis as you need but you should keep them grouped in the event a wire breaks and you lose something. (Don't ask me why). In fact, it doesn't hurt to document all your ground points for potential future troubleshooting.
HTH
 

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Howdy Marc,

Since your battery is in the trunk you need to use a 2/0 battery cables.

I'm running a 2/0 welding cable to my starter and frame ground, and a 1/0 welding cable to my fuse box.

Plus an additional 1/0 grounding cable that runs from the battery to the engine.

Better too much than too little.

Paul
 

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Hi, Marc:
I'll second Paul on the 2/0 or 1/0. I had starting problems when hot until I changed both hot and cold leads to larger diameter, then problems disappeared. My battery is in front but I have five chassis grounds - at battery, at MSD box, a ground strip behind dash for all dash components, and engine ground, and one at my I-squared box.

Good to see you making headway.

Regards, Mike
 

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What ever you do - do not ground anything to the aluminum panels - not true ground there. The Complete Kit comes with a Ron Francis harness, so I will be watching your progress on this part, too. Thanks for posting this question, I am sure others have same/similar ??'s.
 

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Marc, I have the RF wiring kit and battery in the back. I have a short (heavy) ground cable on the battery, out the box and bolted to the frame. I didn't use the supplied braided ground strap. I another heavy cable bolted to the block and the motor mount near the starter. There is a ground wire that comes out of the harness near the fuse block. see lower right in attached photo. I attached that to the frame. I also attached a 1/4 20 threaded stud to the large tube near the middle of the dash. I attached a number of ground wires there (12v power outlet, heater/ac, gauges and gauge lights, etc). You can see it just to the right and below the relay in the second photo.

A non-ground suggestion. I added a 70 amp breaker between the master cut off and the electrical system...except the starter. The starter is connected to the input stud of the breaker, bypassing the breaker. I mounted it on the firewall near the driver foot box.

One last suggestion, okay two, don't use rivnuts/nutserts for ground connections (thread the frame or bolt through) and remember to grind off the paint where you mount your grounds.







 

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I welded bolts to the frame everywhere I though I would need to connect a ground.

Following areas: Near battery, fuel pump, tail lights, head lights fan, fuse panel, dash by AC and wiper motor, gauges, radiator fan, relay panel, switch panel, MSD box, Engine.

Example: Pass side down bar of x-member you can just see a ground bolt. One is on drivers side as well.



 
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