Go to epowersteering.com. They have a Factory Five MkIV specific kit for $650. Plan on doing it this winter. Contact epowersteering.com for details and instructions.
The competition dash is more than just for looks, in the standard layout, the steering wheel will partially block your view of the tach or speedo depending on which you put over there.
I have made many changes to the car as I built it, not too much after. I believe that I'd have to say my best "change" was cruise control, that takes a lot of worry out of highway cruising, I also like my home made 5-link rear suspension. Full length deep well foot boxes on both sides come in a close second (or third if the case is such).
408 kit instead of a stock rebuild, not really that much more money. Kept the same smallish carb so it's quite tame. Second would be rod end RCAs and QA1's greatly improved the ride on a 3-link (Mark sells a package). Scott
OK, after Derald reminded me (thanks Derald), the "Fiero parking brake mod" was a GREAT! mod, cuz I used to get caught on the parking lot exit hill every time I left the Huntington Beach Cruise-In in the early days . . . this mod gave me a "hill-holder" that saved my ass many times, and more-than-likely, the guy behind me that was hugging my rear bumper.
408 kit instead of a stock rebuild, not really that much more money. Kept the same smallish carb so it's quite tame. Second would be rod end RCAs and QA1's greatly improved the ride on a 3-link (Mark sells a package). Scott
I made a lot of mods over the years. One of the best was a roll control. I used it all the time. Made it real easy to get started on a hill. Living in the mountains, that's kinda important. And it was fun for big smoky burn outs, too.
Another good one was replacing the front lower control arm bushings with rod ends. It did not increase harshness, noise, or vibration like I thought it would. But it allowed the suspension to work as planned, instead of transferring wheel movement to the rest of the chassis. A noticeably smoother ride with rod ends.
I made a lot of mods over the years. One of the best was a roll control. I used it all the time. Made it real easy to get started on a hill. Living in the mountains, that's kinda important. And it was fun for big smoky burn outs, too.
Another good one was replacing the front lower control arm bushings with rod ends. It did not increase harshness, noise, or vibration like I thought it would. But it allowed the suspension to work as planned, instead of transferring wheel movement to the rest of the chassis. A noticeably smoother ride with rod ends.
No, I actually cut off the bushings, and welded in rod ends. A slightly different way to get the same results. If that spherical bearing kit had been available, I would done that.
My race car suspension is based on a Miata. For that car, I pressed in spherical bearings everywhere. Made a huge improvement in handling.
I've read a few threads which state that it's best to leave the dash loose until the body is put on the car, but I still want to try get the dash at least temporarily fitted prior to the body. I have the dash pretty much exactly where I want it in relation to the steering opening, parallel with...
I built my body buck on an old boat trailer back in '08 so I could move it as needed. I thought I had tarped the body well but that was not the case! When I untarped it after a decade and removed the doors they had rusty water in them. What are my options?
Jim
Hey guys, we finally found our big torch and it is now time to get this frame straight. Come join us for the fun of 6000+ degree torches and metal bending.
Here the link:
A forum community dedicated to Factory Five owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, conversions, modifications, troubleshooting and drivetrain. We discuss MK4, GTM, 818, Type 65 coupe, roadsters, and more!
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