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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since my build thread died many moons ago when Photobucket broke the internet, I haven't had a dedicated thread to post updates. As I'm getting closer to first start, I thought I would create an update thread to share things.

I've been working 3 to 4 hours in the shop almost every night the last month or so. As I said in another post, this second 1/3 of the build is taking much longer than the first, with many questions/issues to sort through and things to figure out.

So far the engine is in and the engine compartment is fully wired and tidied up. Just a few battery connections to make in the rear and I'll be testing electrical. Fuel and cooling systems are basically done, though I have a Boig upper rad hose on the way. It's very close to first start; I need to add all fluids including bleeding the brakes. I also need to get it on its feet and set the pinion angle now that the driveshaft is in.

I had mounted the Breeze seat wedge bases back when I had the body on, so I threw in the seats, mocked up the harnesses, and even temporarily mounted the door to see how I would fit at 6'2", 240lbs. Not too bad with the seats all the way back.





I'll eventually get around to ordering some black stainless machine screw and finish washers to tone down the dash mounting screws a bit.

I had the interference with the clutch pedal and frame that I hadn't fully addressed until this point. I'm not a welder, so I went with the cut-and-bolt support route I've seen others do. I cut 5/8" keystock plugs to fit inside the 3/4" tubes on either side of the cut, and secured through that to a solid 5/8" support bridging the cut. It's very solid, though I may end up adding another bolt.



The non-adjustable pedal and FFR firewall spacer created a very high clutch pedal and a bit too much preload on the throw out bearing for my taste, so off to Summit I went. My firewall clutch cable adjustor and adjustable Ford cable came in the other day, so I got those installed and dialed in. I was able to get the pedal height equal with the brake pedal, though I'm near the end of the adjustment on the fork side of the cable. Preload is now spot on.



I'll need to check tomorrow and see how the end of the cable in the quadrant clears the footbox frame. I'll likely have to clearance the hole a bit more since I'll have more pedal travel now.

I couldnt find a good mounting location for the stock clutch cable bracket while keeping a smooth radius on the cable, so I fab'd a very simple support from the 3/4" tube to hold the the cable a bit further away from the headers.



That's it for now. More to come.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Good progress. It may be just the camera angle but the cable looks pretty close to the header so I would insulate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good progress. It may be just the camera angle but the cable looks pretty close to the header so I would insulate it.
Probably the angle. I'll look at it again, but the closest it comes to the header is as it passes behind the header. It rests on my solid motor mount, and I split a rubber hose and sleeved the cable there for protection against running. It's as far away as it possible can be with the length of the cable. I'll take another picture and see what you think. I can definitely add heat protection if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #5




What do you think? The clutch cable is just under a couple of inches away from the header tube at it's closest approach.

Some other things I've been piddling through today:

Got the CNC reservoirs mounted finally:





I also finished clearancing the top of the pedal box to clear the clutch cable swage. You can assemble the quadrant so that it lines up with the existing hole, but then the cable comes into the quadrant at an angle and may cause fraying, so I chose to leave it as is and enlarge the hole to clear:



Both harnesses temporarily mounted and sized to fit:



Got the engine compartment cleaned up:



And the wiring cleaned up:



I did a terminal post through the firewall. Here we have the positive cable coming up from the trunk through the tunnel, the line from the alternator (mega fused), and the starter cable, all 2 gauge.



Time to go out and piddle some more.

-Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I used some high temp sleeves on my spark plug boots since some of the wires prefer to do their own thing as far as position goes:



I couldn't stand it so I went ahead and bolted up the side pipes to see how they look. Nice and level, though the passenger side may end up a smidge close to the body:







Another thing I knocked out tonight was the glove box cover. It's from the molded FFR dash. I cut out a piece of aluminum to match the inside of the cover and used adhesive to secure the aluminum to the cover, sandwiching the hinge tabs and secured further with the latch nut.





Horns are mounted and wired:



And I had a bit of help for a little while.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
One thing I noticed is that my throttle linkage hits the dropped air cleaner I have on right now. Lowering the linkage enough to clear will reduce my throttle sensitivity, though that may be a good thing, and I could adjust to counter in the footbox a bit.

What I think I'm going to do is purchase a Cobra oval cleaner because I love the way they look. With my dropped solid mounts, I'm thinking I'll be ok as far as fitting under the body. I can use it for shows, and if I don't like how it runs, I can get a non-dropped pan for my current cleaner.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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The clutch cable looks better than I thought but I'd still insulate it. I am surprised at the air filter. I think it is the same I am running and I don't have a problem although my linkage is home made from years ago. If you lower it in the bell crank at the firewall that would actually slow down your throttle movement compared to pedal movement so that would be OK. Also there are spacers for the top of the carb. From all I have read that is a much better filter than the usual oval ones so I'd try to keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The clutch cable looks better than I thought but I'd still insulate it. I am surprised at the air filter. I think it is the same I am running and I don't have a problem although my linkage is home made from years ago. If you lower it in the bell crank at the firewall that would actually slow down your throttle movement compared to pedal movement so that would be OK. Also there are spacers for the top of the carb. From all I have read that is a much better filter than the usual oval ones so I'd try to keep it.
I've heard the same about the filter. I went ahead and ordered an oval for looks/shows. I will get a 1" spacer for the top of the carb as well so I can continue to use the flow top filter I have as well.

Adding a sleeve of insulation to the cable should be easy enough, so I'll pick some up and throw it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tonight I was able to get the brakes bled, I think. I started by lowering the rear of the car to get the MCs level. Then I made some lines out if cunnifer to make a loop from the MC to the reservoirs so I could bench bleed them. Made a bit of a mess trying to swap lines after the bench bleed on the front MC, but it went better on the rear.

I next tried to vacuum bleed the lines in proper order. My bleeding kit apparently sucked (kind of literally and definitely figuratively). I got all four brakes mostly done, but I was having a hard time due to leaky hose fittings on the vacuum kit. I finally decided to trust the pressure regulator on my compressor and pull out the pressure cap for my CNC reservoirs.

Pressure bleeding rocks. With the regulator turned pretty much all the way down, I was able to quickly go through a good bit of fluid and get all the bubbles out as far as I can tell. Pedal feels pretty good, and the brakes work. I'm not sure exactly how the pedal should feel, but it's similar to my other vehicles, so I'm thinking it will work.

I do have a bit of drag on all four calipers, a bit more in the rear. I can turn the rotors, but there is an audible drag. Is that to be expected?
 

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...I do have a bit of drag on all four calipers, a bit more in the rear. I can turn the rotors, but there is an audible drag. Is that to be expected?
Yes pretty normal. And yep, pressure bleeding is my absolute favorite method. Vac bleed would work but the threads on every bleed screw I have ever tried leaked. My wife is also glad I made up a pressure bleeding rig. No more 'pump it up', 'holding', 'pump it up'.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
...I do have a bit of drag on all four calipers, a bit more in the rear. I can turn the rotors, but there is an audible drag. Is that to be expected?
Yes pretty normal. And yep, pressure bleeding is my absolute favorite method. Vac bleed would work but the threads on every bleed screw I have ever tried leaked. My wife is also glad I made up a pressure bleeding rig. No more 'pump it up', 'holding', 'pump it up'.
That's exactly the problem I was facing. In addition to a just less than sealed vacuum system, the bleeder threads were pulling in air under vacuum as well. I could never tell if I was getting all fluid and where, exactly the bubbles were coming from. Clear as day with a pressure bleed.

And I absolutely know better than to ask my wife for help. She tolerates me just enough as it is 😄.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wanted to throw this up here. The Boig upper assembly came in today, and I really like it. It's pricey for what it is, and my brain was telling me that it doesn't make financial sense to purchase it. But then my heart said, who buys and builds these cars because it makes financial sense? Gotta go with the heart.

Before:



After:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finished up the cooling system tonight with the installation of a Canton overflow tank. There wasn't a good place to mount on the side of the engine due to the size of the tank, brake lines, and hood hinge mounts, so I fabricated brackets to mount it above the X of the frame.

I used modified aluminum angle and made top/bottom mounting points. I had considered going with just a top mount, but the tank was too tippy and would have eventually stressed the mount to failure.





And the whole picture:





A quick question: where is the best place to run the overflow hose? Right now it's out the driver's wheel well....
 

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I'd just run it straight down. Although it is highly unlikely due to the size of the tank (I have the same) I'd rather not have slippery coolant get on the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Nothing glamorous tonight. I worked a bit on trunk insulation, got the footbox blowers wire, and added fluids. The Moser 8.8 only took just over 2 quarts before it was coming out the fill hole (fluid had friction addictive in it already). Around 2.7 quarts in the TKO600. And I added 5 quarts of oil, pre-filling the oil filter.

I haven't added coolant yet, and the last time I did on a new engine about 20 years ago, I made a huge mess.

Any tips or how-to's on filling the coolant system for the first time? I have a high fill point in the upper radiator hose and the FFR radiator. I do not have a heater. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Electrical was tested tonight, and it all works!! There's a video below that I took, but the only issues I ran into include a few switches that I had wired in reverse (i.e. had to turn the switch down for brights instead of up...same for hazzards and the blinkers were reversed). I had to adjust the brake switch, and in doing so, the lead shorted against the aluminum under the dash. That took out the fuse for my hazards and brake lights, but it was an easy and quick fix. Check out the video if you like. The only other issue was that I ran out of female prongs for my weather pack connectors so I was only able to hook up and test the top/brake lights. Didn't show in the video, but horn works as well!

https://youtu.be/8gmJEbS15HI
 

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Discussion Starter #18
First start:
https://youtu.be/7yBUaJiP548

Just a hickup or two getting it started for the first time. I didn't have spark at first attempt. The MSD didnt like the 12v switched I had connected for some reason, so I switched it to EFI COIL wire that want used, and that seems to have done the trick. Then I had to get used to giving it a good breath of air and a dose of fuel for it to start (my first carb motor).

Tonight I set my pinion angle at 2 degrees down referenced to the face of the crank pulley. I also dialed in a preliminary alignment, getting it set on around 3 degrees caster and 1/2 degrees negative camber. I used a Joe's Racing caster camber gauge and a template I cut from mdf to fit the lip of the rim. Then I set toe with a set of Longacre toe in plates.

I'll do first go kart tomorrow and will try to get the go pro running for it.
 

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congrats

congrats
huge accomplishment.
i hope to be there soon. build looks great so far.
eugene
 

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Discussion Starter #20
congrats
huge accomplishment.
i hope to be there soon. build looks great so far.
eugene
Thanks, it's been a challenging but rewarding road so far.
 
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