Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has gone over before but I cannot seem to find the link.

What is the minimum clearance I shouls have between the sidepipes and the body?

I have 4 into 4 headers on a 302.

factory cut-outs

The driver side exhaust is about 1" high and1/2" too far back.

I am about to cut them larger, I just want to know how much?

And is this normal to be off by this amount?

Thanks for any input!
Larry
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,232 Posts
I have mine pretty close, about 3/8" on all sides w/ 4x4 headers (jet hotted). 15,000 miles, no problems w/ paint. However, you'll need solid or poly mounts to run them that close w/o hitting under acceleration.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wade,
were your pipes off by as much as I mentoned?

And if they were, did you trim the body equal on both sides? Or just the side that was off?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,232 Posts
Not that much. I have one of the first sets of 4x4 headers. They've changed jigs at least twice since mine were built.

One pipe was too far forward and too high. THe other was too far to the rear, and too low. I was able to straighten out the high/low business by tilting the engine just a wee bit. I had to trim the cutouts to get the correct front/back clearance. Nothing was off by more than 3/8-1/2" though.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
I found a "windfall" concerning sidepipe installation when I used another's advise on inserting Car Chemistry Inserts into the J-pipes. The CC's wouldn't slide in due the conflicts with the flange on the J's. I used a power band saw to cut the J's in half. I used a Pep Boys 2.5" exhaust pipe union to put the two J's back together. I only torch welded one end to one half of the J's til I got the pipes lined up. Then I tack welded the union to the other J, took it back apart and finished the welding. The exhaust pipe union set-up let me twist the J's and attached side pipes as much as needed to make them level, etc. I found this a bit more accurate and easy that ovaling out the flange bolt holes (in my opinion). Eddie
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top