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Well, we are getting close to go-kart time. I just installed the side pipes (st. steel FF) on FF 351W headers and the alignment of the pipes is not the same on both sides. The passenger side pipe outlet is about 1 1/2" higher than the driver side pipe outlet. The height and angle of the pipe appears to be set by the header outlet flange. I even had to notch the support bracket to keep from being against the frame. Can you safely put pressure on the end of the side pipe to bend the header and bring the outlet down without breaking something? Is there a good method for doing this? Thanks again for the advice.
 

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You will likely not be able to change the pipe positions much by bending anything. Everything involved is pretty stout.

Moving the pipes up and down is pretty simple. I just used a round file and slightly opened up the holes in the pipe and the header outlet on the top of each hole and bottom of the others, respectively, to move the pipes. You could also use a die grinder. It won't take much to move them 1-1/2 inches at the outlet. As an alternative, I've heard of guys switching to a smaller bolt size, which allows some movement.

Moving the pipes in and out takes wedges. I doubt there are many builds out there without them. My Mk3 has 2 on one side, and 1 on the other. Breeze sells them.

Breeze Automotive Adjustment Wedge

Having said that, I wouldn't spend a lot of time and effort aligning the pipes until you have the body in its final position. Only then can you be sure of the actual final required placements.
 

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Snake Farmer
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Smaller bolts do work good for that issue.
Just leave them slightly loose, jack up the pipe so it's level, tighten bolts. I bought stover nuts, and found bolts that are similar to the provided ones, just a smaller diameter.
 

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sounds like you can fix it by loosening the motor mounts slightly and then push down on the passenger side at the end of the header. It will shift the motor that way and level out your pipes.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I like to use extra long bolts and two plain nuts. It's really nice to be able to run the nut on w/ your fingers till it stops and then only need 1-2 turns w/ wrench and/or socket. Once you have everyhing finalized run the second nut on as a locker. Comes off just as easily. If you drop down to 5/16 you might want to go to Grade 8.
 

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You can also cure the problem by using Shorty Headers and J-Pipes :evil:

The connection between the J-pipe and the Side-Pipes is an extremely mobile, adjustable ball-and-socket type joint and in literally minutes you can adjust your side pipes exactly the way you want them.

Of Course, you are going for a more classic look, and I get that (not to mention you already have purchased the straight headers). But for the sake of completeness I just thought I would throw this in.

Good luck. I think the prior answers have given you pretty good advice so far!
 

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Jim,

Here is the first thing to try. It will go a lot easier if you pick up on the engine a little (cherry picker) when you're trying to do this, also loosen the transmission mount:

sounds like you can fix it by loosening the motor mounts slightly and then push down on the passenger side at the end of the header. It will shift the motor that way and level out your pipes.
An inch and a half at the outlets is very, very little at the motor + tranny mounts... It also works in different directions, i.e. to get the sidepipe away from the frame...

HTH,

Mike

P.S. Bear in mind that with this method the passenger side only moves 3/4" because the drivers' side is moving too...
 

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It'll be worse when you put the body on!

This appears to be a common problem. But, before you commit to a solution, you should really see how the headers work with the body on. You'll find much more about where things are and where they need to go.

Personally, I wouldn't vote for trying to rotate the engine on the motor mounts. The engine's probably happy sitting right where it is, and it might try to find its way back there with time. Even if rotating the engine did work, you might find that both header exits are too high for the body cut-outs.

My guess it that you're going to find that you need to change the PS header angle at the head flange. This can be done pretty simply by milling the flange (see attachment). My local machine shop did it for me for $50, and it worked perfectly. Mine only required a 2.5 degree change, but you'll need to find your own correction angle. It's worth it to get a good fit.

Good luck,
Stan
 

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very common problem. the engine may be out of level. not that it is perfectly level in any car, though.

this solution has helped scads of people.

you can nudge the motor mount a little to change the level of the engine. i have the passenger side showing. loosen the motor mount nut and support the block with a 2x4 and a jack. use a C-clamp to nudge the mount down.

keep in mind, wedging the mount down makes the engine go UP on that side. so if you nudge your mount down just 1/16", your driver's sidepipe will drop 3/8" or so, and the other one go up 3/8" or so, for a huge difference.

you need the opposite, nudge down the driver's side mount, the motor will lift a wee on the driver's side, and the passenger side will drop.

of course, to the above only for minor nudging. then try the other things listed here. and old-timer down the block taught me this, worked for me!

if all else fails, remember that when the engine revvs, the driver's sidepipe goes UP, so if you can't get it perfect, it's okay if the driver's side is a wee low. nobody will notice.

(after this, we will work on distance from the frame to the body.)

.
 

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Engine Was Level

Just trying to save some street cred: When I had my high PS header problem, my engine was dead level with the frame.
 

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I have the exact same problem (ps side pipe 1 1/2" higher than the DS) and was looking at adding shims/washers to the DS engine mount and was contemplating how much to add in to level....but I had already bolted up the DS exhaust hangars (over eager dumb move on my part)....so I am no looking at wedges to lower the PS side pipe.......less rework...the question is....I presume 1/ 1/2" wedge should lower the PS side pipe to match that of the DS side? (ie 1-1 relationship).
 

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I have the exact same problem (ps side pipe 1 1/2" higher than the DS) and was looking at adding shims/washers to the DS engine mount and was contemplating how much to add in to level....but I had already bolted up the DS exhaust hangars (over eager dumb move on my part)....so I am no looking at wedges to lower the PS side pipe.......less rework...the question is....I presume 1/ 1/2" wedge should lower the PS side pipe to match that of the DS side? (ie 1-1 relationship).
I assume you are talking about wedges on the four-into-four connection between the header and side pipes? Read your post several times and I think that's what you mean, as opposed to engine mounts. If so, no. Wedges at the header/side pipes move the pipes in/out from the body, e.g. thicker on the back of the pipe/header connection moves the pipe tip out, thicker on the front moves the tip in. Rotating the wedge 90 degrees wouldn't raise/lower the pipes. Just rotate it slightly. To raise or lower the tip, either make the holes slightly larger or go to smaller bolts, as noted in previous posts. It's an easy fix.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Within maybe 5 degrees either way, it makes no difference whether you engine is level side to side or not. Move it to get the best pipe fit to the body. And, if it's efi, I'd widen that out to 10 degrees.
 

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Thanks, back to shims it is then....

I assume you are talking about wedges on the four-into-four connection between the header and side pipes? Read your post several times and I think that's what you mean, as opposed to engine mounts. If so, no. Wedges at the header/side pipes move the pipes in/out from the body, e.g. thicker on the back of the pipe/header connection moves the pipe tip out, thicker on the front moves the tip in. Rotating the wedge 90 degrees wouldn't raise/lower the pipes. Just rotate it slightly. To raise or lower the tip, either make the holes slightly larger or go to smaller bolts, as noted in previous posts. It's an easy fix.
 

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Thanks, back to shims it is then....
I doubt you need to shim. Your situation is not unusual, and can typically be fixed by just moving the engine mounts. As suggested by others in this thread, and my experience was the same, the engine can be rotated slightly. It doesn't take a lot of movement to change the height of the header outlet. I had to lengthen the slot on the pass side to get mine to move enough. Maybe adding a shim sounds easier to you, but I don't think it would be. Just get it positioned better in the mounts. You may have to re-do the exhaust hangar you already did, but I would suggest fixing everything right.
 
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