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Discussion Starter #1
Am new to the forum and am building the FFR MK4 Roadster. At the point where I am installing the seats. I have found that even with the seat all the way back the steering wheel is closer than I would like it to be. Has anyone tried to shorten the upper steering shaft. It appears that if I cut it off about an inch and filed the flat sides on the column that I could move the steering wheel closer to the dash without any issues.

Anyone tried doing something like this? I have searched the forums, but have not found anything.

Thanks in advance.

AggieCobra
 

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The steering wheel depth is adjusted by loosening the set screws on the upper pillow block and sliding the upper shaft in or out of the lower shaft. There is no need to cut anything. Wait until the dash and body are on to set the steering wheel position. It is possible to set the wheel too far forward and have no room for your fingers to pass between it and the body on the left side.

HTH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The steering wheel depth is adjusted by loosening the set screws on the upper pillow block and sliding the upper shaft in or out of the lower shaft. There is no need to cut anything. Wait until the dash and body are on to set the steering wheel position. It is possible to set the wheel too far forward and have no room for your fingers to pass between it and the body on the left side.

HTH

Norm
Norm:

Thanks for the info. The build instructions indicate that the upper shaft must be adjusted to a particular spot. Being able to adjust it there makes much more sense....

JAM
AggieCobra
 

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Norm:

Thanks for the info. The build instructions indicate that the upper shaft must be adjusted to a particular spot. Being able to adjust it there makes much more sense....

JAM
AggieCobra
Make sure you grease the shaft good and put in the little spring washers.
 

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I would like to mention that I also was concerned, with the steering wheel distance and more importantly the clutch and brake position relative to the seat. I ordered an adjustable seat base and installed it on the driver side only. I'm glad I did because operating the clutch from a perfect seating position can easily be adjusted when you enter the car. Also everybody is different, an added value for the car. The Base was cheap, less than $40 I think and only about an inch tall.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rivet1949:

I have done the same. I also added about an inch of spacers on the front side of the seat base and slanted the seat so it was inline with the steering column. Made a better and more comfortable seat. My wife thinks she will be able to drive it, too! Not sure that was my intent!!!! Thanks for your input/advice.
 

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Smart move. Originally I thought that the seat would be perfect at the full back setting, not true. Having to defeat the Ford clutch safety and fully disengage the clutch for the quick shift, calls for two clicks forward. Plus, in the end when the car might be sold, the adjustable seat will be invaluable. Oh, by the way Gig'em....Class of "72". Not to make this to long a conversation but I used a Coyote 5.0 from a 2016 Mustang GT. Not sure what your power plant is, but if you have a similar setup, I might be able to answer some questions.....See ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Smart move. Originally I thought that the seat would be perfect at the full back setting, not true. Having to defeat the Ford clutch safety and fully disengage the clutch for the quick shift, calls for two clicks forward. Plus, in the end when the car might be sold, the adjustable seat will be invaluable. Oh, by the way Gig'em....Class of "72". Not to make this to long a conversation but I used a Coyote 5.0 from a 2016 Mustang GT. Not sure what your power plant is, but if you have a similar setup, I might be able to answer some questions.....See ya.
Class of '80 - that was MSIE !..... Currently have a 302 small block Ford with 5 spd transmission. Also have Vintage AC/Heat/Defrost unit. Agree on the value of being able to adjust.
 

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Ok Cool. Best of luck, I went the donor car route because Factory Five supports the Coyote/Mustang engine headers, mounts, independent rear end, brakes[at rear] and hubs[IRS]. Not wanting to go on a parts scavenger hunt, this seemed like the best way forward. I built the car in 12 months starting in June and rolled out the following June. The 450 hp is absolutely terrifying at full tilt. I have 1000 miles of trouble free operation minus a few squeaks and rattles. The Factory Five header/muffler is too loud!! Had to install a shorty internal glass pack to tame the beast!!
 

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Ok Cool. Best of luck, I went the donor car route because Factory Five supports the Coyote/Mustang engine headers, mounts, independent rear end, brakes[at rear] and hubs[IRS]. Not wanting to go on a parts scavenger hunt, this seemed like the best way forward. I built the car in 12 months starting in June and rolled out the following June. The 450 hp is absolutely terrifying at full tilt. I have 1000 miles of trouble free operation minus a few squeaks and rattles. The Factory Five header/muffler is too loud!! Had to install a shorty internal glass pack to tame the beast!!
What do they say, if it’s too loud, you’re too old? LoL.


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