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iBuild
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, quick question on shock mounting.

When the shock is mounted and bolted tight, should the heim joint still rotate on the through bolt, or should the ball of the heim be locked tight?

The reason I ask, I thought I saw a post a week or so ago about someone torquing down the through bolt to the point of pulling the ears in and locking the whole thing down. I am thinking that the heim is not designed to rotate in that direction (act like a bearing) and that this type of mounting would put a great deal of stress you know where.

-Scott
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Hiem has to be able to move freelly. If you watch the motion of the suspension. The lca does not travel in a straight up and down motion but an arc. This is why the shocks have the sperical ends on them unlike a regular passenger car does.
Another reason not to mount the shock with a large washer that could limit the heims movement.
 

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Charter Member
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1,117 Posts
The outer body of the heim rotates on the ball which doesn't move and is held tight with the through bolt and spacers. If the end was designed to rotate on the bolt, you would not need a hiem joint or bearing. Yes the through bolt should be tight, if the mounting ears or spacers are not correct that's a different story.
 

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iBuild
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Discussion Starter #4
Buckeye,

I guess that was my questioin, is a heim effecient at roatating on the ball and acting as a bearing. I guess I had always seen them as providing movement perpendicular to the ball not rotational.

_Scott
 

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Senior Member
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2,860 Posts
No real rotation...

Buckeye, I guess that was my questioin, is a heim effecient at roatating on the ball and acting as a bearing. I guess I had always seen them as providing movement perpendicular to the ball not rotational. Scott
Keep in mine that heim joint is move movement/swivel VS rotation; it does not rotate like a bearing. The bolt requires minimal torgue; just enough to hold the ny-lock nut on. Some race cars just use a pin with a cotter key for quick change of shocks. FFCars: FFR Koni Rear shocks, install...

:001_smile: :silver:
 

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Supermoderator
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....I thought I saw a post a week or so ago about someone torquing down the through bolt to the point of pulling the ears in and locking the whole thing down. ...
-Scott
And so we see one of the many reasons that shocks break...
 

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Unconventional Builder
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5,498 Posts
Mumblerone

Excellent shock install pics. Do those nice tapered spacers come with the Koni's or are they something custom? I have ordered Koni's and am looking into the intallation posts.
 

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Senior Member
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Here you go...

JoeE... go to http://shop.a1racing.com/ Under 'catagory' hit 'hardware', then 'heim spacers'. The one you see there is part # HWR10410 @ $1.50 each. :eek:hmy: :silver:
 

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Premium Member
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If you are a cheap as I am, you can stack a couple of AN washers on each side of the ball. does the same thing as the spacers.
 

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Unconventional Builder
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Mumblerone

Thanks as the saying goes "just what I needed"
 

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iBuild
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Discussion Starter #12
Joe & Mumblerone,

I think this is the thread that I was thinking of this morning. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180259&highlight=koni+shocks

I checked my manual and it does not give a specific value on the shock bolts, just to tighten them. Anyone who decided then to use the generic torque values in the back of the book would over-torque them and cause bind on the ball.

M, I think the heim spacers you listed are a great idea as well, especially with the Koni rod ends. Did you use them on the front as well? I think I'll be seeing if I can use them on the IRS as well.

_Scott
 

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M, I think the heim spacers you listed are a great idea as well, especially with the Koni rod ends. Did you use them on the front as well? I think I'll be seeing if I can use them on the IRS as well. _Scott
I did not; and I can't remember why! :eek: J Persons makes a good point on the AN washers, too.

:sad: :silver:
 

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Why not just use the spacers that FFR supplies as part of the shock fastener package? This is exactly why you have them.
 

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I checked my manual and it does not give a specific value on the shock bolts, just to tighten them. Anyone who decided then to use the generic torque values in the back of the book would over-torque them and cause bind on the ball.


_Scott


Not to harp on this but: That is a very good example of a builder that doesn't understand what he/she is assembling. The blind use of bolt torque values, that is. Understand this: 1.The shock mounting bolt is just really a pin to give the shock a point to push and pull against and keep it from fall off.
2. That the heim must float in multi angles to prevent binding as the suspension moves through it arc.
Do this: With just the shock (no spring) run it to full compression and full droop and make sure that at both extremes there is still free movement in the heim joints and no contact with any part of the suspension. Also don't over-tighten the shocks heim jam nut, just snug it up to the heim. You don't want to stress or stretch the threads.

Michael S.
 

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iBuild
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5,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Mike,

I 100% agree, and for the record it wasn't me who over-tightend the through bolts. But an update to the manual there, or the use of shock pins could possibly save some troubles.

OldGuy, if you checked out Mumblerone's link there was some talk about the heim on the Koni having a thiner wall, and the high angle spacers having better contact and not limiting movement on the heim joint.

_Scott
 

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shock mounts

I have the same problem with mine.When I tighten the rear lower shock bolt
the spacer mushroomed. The nut was not a nylon locknut.but it was a locking
nut.I called ff and they offered to send me new spacers. I sent Dave a letter
explaining what happened and sent him the spacers. I have not heard anything yet. I try to use the manual ,thats really all I have to go by. A lot
of good ideas from the forum. My manual said to torque the lower shock bolt
60-70 ft pounds(lbsft).I made some steel spacers on a lathe and torqued them down to 60 lbs/ft. I hope thats ok. Maybe I might hear something from FF.


Mark 3 , T5, 351 WINSOR, 3 LINK ,Wilwood pedal box.
 
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