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Discussion Starter #141
Oil Cooler Running/Fog Lights

Well I really wanted to do some lighting in the oil cooler opening behind the mesh I plan to install in the opening, and I wanted them to be LED. After a bit of research I found these small 3" motorcycle lights and figured I could use them. They have halo or "angel eyes" as well as the fog lights. I decided to wire up the halos as daytime running lights and the main fog lights will be switched from the dash. I plan to mount these to the bottom of the radiator support but can't finish up the bracket until I have the body back on. I'm sure the supports will need to be cut down and bent into position, and then I will powder coat them black. Total cost about $50.00



I used 2 relays, one for the halo "daytime running" lights and another for the fogs. I used weatherpacks for all the connections.



I removed the electrical tape from around the ignition switch and ran a wire to the post that is powered when the key is turned to accessory. This will be used to switch the relay on the halos for the daytime running lights. I ran this wire inside the same loom with the SPST switch I installed earlier to manually switch on the fogs, down to the front of the car below the radiator.



It was hard to get a photo that shows just the halos with my phone so this pic is actually with them off, but they do power on as designed with the key is switched on.



Here is a shot of the bright fogs when switched on manually.

 

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Discussion Starter #142
Marking body cutouts

I started working on adjusting the body cutouts. I need to open up the holes for the louvers, side pipes, and roll bars (going with the larger diameter Breeze roll bars).

I made a template for the louvers. I tried to make it so that an even amount of louver will show in the hole on the leading and trailing sides. I also sized it so that the body overhangs the louvers by a mere 1/8"



When I aligned the template on the existing holes I found that they didn't really undersize the height of the cutout. I tried to align it the best I can on the existing holes but looks like I will have to take a little more material off the top and bottom to straighten up the existing horizontals. Also I found that FFR didn't do such a great job of making sure the cutouts are in the same location on each side. I adjusted the best I can with the existing holes, but one side will be 3/8" closer to the wheel well than the other side. Oh well, you can't really see both of them at the same time so I suppose it's not a big deal.




I used my trim rings for the Breeze roll bars as a template and draw around the existing holes. I am going with dual roll bars and for the front hoops, looking at the relation of the hole cutouts to the seam on the mold, they don't really appear to line up. I took some rough measurements from the front of the hole to the lip of the cockpit and they do appear to be roughly in the same position on both sides. I guess the seam on the mold is not very symmetrical.

Driver Side




Passenger Side




The oval hole for the rear leg also seems a bit out of whack. If I project a line through the oval towards the front holes they appear to be pointing in different directions in relation to drivers side and passenger side. On the drivers side it appears to be pointed roughly towards the right leg of the hoop, but on the passenger side it seems to be pointing in between the two hoop holes. I think I will open up the front hoop holes first and then start to drop in the roll bars to see how the rear leg is oriented before I start to cut anything for the rear. Anyone experience something similar and have some advice for me?



I took measurements from my body test fit and I know how much I want to open up each side pipe cutout to get about 1/2" clearance on the sides and about 5/8" on the top, but I haven't marked them yet. Do most people try to keep that side pipe cutout with that taper towards the top, or should I just try to have the sides be fairly 90 degrees if possible? Does anyone have any decent pics they could share?

 

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Just a bit of advise: trying to adjust cutouts for the bars and pipes without the body installed on the chassis and in it's final position may lead to shooting yourself (or even worse your body guy!) in the foot.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #144 (Edited)
Some random items

I'm kind of all over the place with projects on the car right now, I guess all of them are important and have to be done at some point anyway. First up is I finished putting the first two pieces of carpet into the car this morning. I'm probably not going to do any more in the cockpit until after paint to avoid making my painter's life difficult, or getting my carpet too messy. The two pieces in the back of the footbox are probably the most difficult pieces to install because it's hard to get back there and you have to run them behind some frame tubes - especially the drivers side. I decided not to cut the pieces in two, just some slight trimming, and managed to get them in place. I used outdoor carpet glue and put them in one section at a time. I started with the back section, applied the glue with a small spatula and then a small plastic 1/8" trowel to get the adhesive the right height. I press those into place and let it setup over night, then applied some more glue on the outside sections of the driver's footbox, behind the round tube, then pulled the carpet through. It's a very tight fit and I ended up using some pliers to grip the carpet and pull it. I then applied the glue on the sides, in front of the tube, and in the dead pedal cutout, and pressed it all into place. I did manage to get a little glue on the tubes and a small bit on the face of the carpet, but like Paul mentions in his thread, a little paint thinner/mineral spirits cleaned it right up. You definitely need to have the paint thinner or mineral spirits on hand before you start this job if you use this type of adhesive. You need it to clean the tools as well.






I also installed the rear brackets for the trunk support kit I picked up from Mike at replicaparts.com. I figure like the carpet I installed earlier, this will be a LOT easier before the body is in place.




Next up I bought a cheap 1x4 at Home Depot and cut it to size and traced around the oil cooler and brake duct openings. I drew a dashed line around my trace to account for the thickness of the fiberglass, then cut them out with my jig saw. I thought this would be good to make a form for the hex brake mesh I have left over from the radiator. After a bit of trimming, bending, and forming around the block I then took it over to the body and did my best to bend and form it to fit the opening. It didn't turn out too bad for a first attempt but I think I will start over and leave a bit more material around the edges to give the silicon more material to grip when I install them after paint. When you look at the shape of the block I traced it becomes very apparent just how asymmetrical these cutouts on the body are (or maybe I just suck at tracing a hole with a sharpie).





 

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Discussion Starter #145
Dead pedal installed, some trimming on body

Now that the back carpet is installed in the footbox, I could finish the dead pedal installation. I found that the top bolt was inaccessible behind the round tube once the carpet was installed, so I installed a rivet nut instead so I could run a bolt in from the backside. I powder coated it black and I bought a piece of 3M textured, rubberized anti-slip mat from McMaster and cut a piece to fit over the face of the pedal. I think it turned out pretty nice.






This morning I had some time so I opened up the cutouts for the side louvers and for the quickjack grommets. The louver cutouts are fairly straight, but I think I will leave the final adjustment up to the painter. This weekend I hope to get the adhesive mount studs in place to finish the louver install.







 

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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Kleiner license plate mod w/LED lights

After searching and seeing what others have done for the "Kleiner Mod" on the license plate holder/lights, and since I am going all LEDs on this build, I ordered a pair of the "bolt LEDs" from superbrightled.com. Part# MAL-S-WW2, which is the 3000K temperature lights. They arrived yesterday so last night I started to work on it.



Here is the part as supplied by FFR. First thing I did was drill out all the rivets and remove the "bridge" and the existing incandescent lamps and contacts. I marked the base of the bridge at it's original position, and after some careful measuring, I determined I could move it up .22" after flipping it over without affecting the position of the post. I then put a piece of painters tape on it and marked were to drill new 1/8" holes in the base so that I could rivet it into place using the existing holes on the bridge. When I peeled up the painters tape the cheap chrome finish peeled off with it. Oh well, I covered the whole face of it with some sealing tape, which covers the left over holes anyway. I used some Clecos to hold the bridge in place temporarily.

At first I thought about just making a whole new bridge from some of my scrap aluminum, but I decided that was too much work. After looking at it a bit I figured that I could just use the existing holes for the incandescent lamps if I add some 1/4" washers on either side to span the existing, larger holes. I don't think it turned out too bad. I'll add a piece for mounting the license plate and cut a notch in the plastic lens later when I am ready to mount it.



 

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Discussion Starter #147
Fitted all the lights

This morning before it got too hot I fitted the headlights, turn signals, and brake lights. For headlights I bought the United Pacific 31391. I like the retro look of them and they get good reviews for the light pattern and brightness. The FFR manual does a pretty good job of describing the assembly, but it is a little confusing until you start playing with it and then it makes sense. I took some good pics in case anyone finds it useful.

Here is a shot of one of the buckets after fitting the grommet, the H4 plug assembly, and a weatherpack on the other end.




I did have to drill larger holes for the plastic bosses where the adjustment screws go, and also for the 5 mounting holes. Fortunately the main cutout was large enough from FFR to fit the bucket. I don't like the idea of using the supplied screws to mount the bucket to the body so I used some of my favorite SS 10-32 torx button head screws and nylon locknuts I have used throughout my build.




Here is a pic with the headlight with the mounting ring and spring clip installed. The three small tabs FFR supplies to hold the ring to the headlight worked perfectly with these headlights.




And finally a shot of all the lights up front - I like the look of these headlights. I had to enlarge the bolt holes and open up the center hole for the turn signals and rear lights in order to get them to fit flush (well as flush as they get). A small drum sander on a hand drill takes off the fiberglass pretty easily.




I thought this was a neat shot of the inside and it shows how long I left the leads.




And finally a shot of the rear with all lights installed.

 

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Discussion Starter #148
Trunk liner

This weekend I worked on my trunk liner. I liked the way Papa's trunk turned out so I ordered some of the same material, the Stinger STLBLK Car Audio Trunk Liner Black Carpet 54" x 5 Yards from hifisoundconnection.com. I picked up a couple cans of 3M Super 90 from Lowes to use as adhesive.

The first thing I did was make a pattern out of some craft paper from the office. I cut a piece that was just over half the width of the trunk and took measurements of the location of the tabs for the racing harness and the roll bar stubs and transferred that to the paper. After a test fit and satisfied with the template, I traced it onto another piece of craft paper, mirrored it, and then put both pieces into the trunk and taped them together with some painters tape. I repeated this until I had a single pattern for the entire floor of the trunk, all the way down to the horizontal piece under the top quick-jack location. I placed the pattern onto the trunk material and traced it out with some more painters tape, and carefully cut it out with my shop shears. I just made slits in the material for the harness tabs and cut out the roll bar holes with an X-ACTO knife.



I adhered the material to the floor in sections, starting at the top around the harness tabs and the roll bar stubs. I worked my way down from there. I was hoping to do the entire floor in a single piece, but because the material stretches a bit as it is installed and smoothed out, I made a cut at the bottom of where the trunk drops down to the lower section. I then started at the bottom of the trunk and worked my way up to where it meets the top piece where I had cut it. It's kind of tricky to get this glued down without the seams showing too much, but I think it turned out pretty nice.



Here is a shot of the finished product, less the trunk sides which I still have to work on. I had to cut a separate piece of material to go down the left and right sides, and the floor of my dropped trunk, but I was able to get the seams to meet up pretty well.



I was planning to cover my removable panels with some more of the same material, but I had some more of that textured, rubber anti-skid mat I had bought to cover my dead pedal and decided that it would look cool on top of my access panels instead. Not only does it look cool, but it has a bit more of a low profile using that material as well.

 

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Nicely done. I agree with you that the trunk, as you have completed it, looks much better. I like the materials you selected, as well as the execution; it really looks first rate!

To be frank, the quality of the trunk carpet install matches the rest of your build. Nicely done, with great attention to detail, and to a high degree of fit and finish!

I know you must be stoked to be this close to paint and body work. Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #150
One more touch on the trunk. I found an "open box" Hexomat trunk mat for a Smart Car fortwo at a great price on eBay, so I picked it up and cut it to fit the dropped trunk. The Hexomat is sort of like a Weathertech in that the hex cells can hold spilled liquids.

 

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Discussion Starter #151
Nicely done. I agree with you that the trunk, as you have completed it, looks much better. I like the materials you selected, as well as the execution; it really looks first rate!

To be frank, the quality of the trunk carpet install matches the rest of your build. Nicely done, with great attention to detail, and to a high degree of fit and finish!

I know you must be stoked to be this close to paint and body work. Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve
Thanks I really appreciate the comments. Yes I am pretty stoked to be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Herculiner undercoating

Today I "worked from home" for awhile and then got to work on my build. It's amazing how much work you can get done when you don't show up for work ;)

Today's main project was to get the Herculiner undercoating on the body. I am going on vacation next week and would really like to get the body back on before I leave. I masked off all the openings and used 2" masking tape around the wheel well openings and 1" around the louver and side pipe openings at the request of Kleiner. This look OK to you Jeff?



I started with a brush around all the small openings and areas that are hard to roll and then rolled on a coat, waiting a couple hours, and rolled on a second. Here is the finished product.






Earlier in the week I installed the adhesive mount studs for my louvers. I used Bondo glass reinforced filler on them - not the easiest stuff to work with. I learned real quick not to use too much hardener, which I did my first attempt, but they are really on there well now.




I also went ahead and brushed some Herculiner on the underside of my trans tunnel cover to protect the Lizard Skin heat and sound that I applied on there rather liberally.

 

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Discussion Starter #153
After a bit of research I decided to pick up a JLT catch can. According to what I read the passenger side gets the most benefit for this on the Gen2 Coyote so that is what I bought. This was probably the simplest project on the entire car so far. Took all of 30 seconds to install.

 

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Discussion Starter #154
Trunk is complete

I finished up the sides and back of the trunk tonight so here is a pic of the entire completed trunk. I spent more time on this than I thought I would, especially for the rear where it probably won't be seen but I figured if I was going to cover it I better finish it now before the body is on.

 

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I'm kind of all over the place with projects on the car right now, I guess all of them are important and have to be done at some point anyway. First up is I finished putting the first two pieces of carpet into the car this morning. I'm probably not going to do any more in the cockpit until after paint to avoid making my painter's life difficult, or getting my carpet too messy. The two pieces in the back of the footbox are probably the most difficult pieces to install because it's hard to get back there and you have to run them behind some frame tubes - especially the drivers side. I decided not to cut the pieces in two, just some slight trimming, and managed to get them in place. I used outdoor carpet glue and put them in one section at a time. I started with the back section, applied the glue with a small spatula and then a small plastic 1/8" trowel to get the adhesive the right height. I press those into place and let it setup over night, then applied some more glue on the outside sections of the driver's footbox, behind the round tube, then pulled the carpet through. It's a very tight fit and I ended up using some pliers to grip the carpet and pull it. I then applied the glue on the sides, in front of the tube, and in the dead pedal cutout, and pressed it all into place. I did manage to get a little glue on the tubes and a small bit on the face of the carpet, but like Paul mentions in his thread, a little paint thinner/mineral spirits cleaned it right up. You definitely need to have the paint thinner or mineral spirits on hand before you start this job if you use this type of adhesive. You need it to clean the tools as well.






I also installed the rear brackets for the trunk support kit I picked up from Mike at replicaparts.com. I figure like the carpet I installed earlier, this will be a LOT easier before the body is in place.




Next up I bought a cheap 1x4 at Home Depot and cut it to size and traced around the oil cooler and brake duct openings. I drew a dashed line around my trace to account for the thickness of the fiberglass, then cut them out with my jig saw. I thought this would be good to make a form for the hex brake mesh I have left over from the radiator. After a bit of trimming, bending, and forming around the block I then took it over to the body and did my best to bend and form it to fit the opening. It didn't turn out too bad for a first attempt but I think I will start over and leave a bit more material around the edges to give the silicon more material to grip when I install them after paint. When you look at the shape of the block I traced it becomes very apparent just how asymmetrical these cutouts on the body are (or maybe I just suck at tracing a hole with a sharpie).







Do you have the rest of that hex-grate material that you used for the radiator? I’d be interested in buying that from you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Do you have the rest of that hex-grate material that you used for the radiator? I’d be interested in buying that from you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I sold a piece to someone to cover their radiator, so I don't have enough for that, but I do have enough left over to cover the oil cooler and brake duct openings. Send me a PM if you are interested in it.
 

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I sold a piece to someone to cover their radiator, so I don't have enough for that, but I do have enough left over to cover the oil cooler and brake duct openings. Send me a PM if you are interested in it.


Do you have part numbers and where you bought that from?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #158

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Discussion Starter #159
Roll bars polished

I got my roll bars and LeMans gas cap back from the metal polisher this afternoon - they turned out real nice. My friend did a great job on the welds.



 

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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
Body is back on

This morning my brother and a friend came over and we got the body back on, hopefully for the last time (by me at least). I did my best to make sure it is aligned but the description in the manual about how to check if it is in proper orientation is a little confusing to me. The quick jack bolts are in front and rear, the brackets that attach to the front of the frame and behind the turn signals are in place and making contact with the body. The hood opening seems basically centered on the top frame rails. One thing I notice is that the drivers side door hinge makes slight contact with the body, maybe about 1/8" overlap. The passenger side has about 3/16" of a gap at the same spot. Here are a few pics of these references. Does this look OK, do I need to shift the drivers side of the body slightly forward to clear, or is this just a matter of adjusting the hinge position? Are there any key reference points I should look at?

Driver side door rear




Passenger side door rear




Driver side door hinge




Passenger side door hinge








 
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