Power wiring complete
I have been out of town the last couple weekends and waiting on a part from DelCity, which I finally received today, so I was able to button up the power wiring. There is nothing here that is new as I relied very heavily on what others have done, especially EdwardB, but there were a few subtle changes in the Coyote Controls pack and I'll do my best to detail that here in case anyone else finds it useful.
There was a label on the wiring harness near the main connection for the PCM that identifies this version of the controls pack as
CM-14A006-A504VB REV. 2 04/2018 313. The two biggest changes I see from previous versions is that they eliminated the Clutch Top of Travel connector and switch and also removed the 2nd power connector that plugged into the PDB. You only have to deal with the Clutch Top Travel switch and the single "unlabeled" power lead to the PDB.
In this photo you can see the wiring for the PDB, the supplied 250A fuse, and the battery disconnect switch. I ran 2AWG cable from the battery to the switch, over to the fuse, and then up to the PDB. The power connector that normally goes to the lug on the front of the PDB is actually attached to the right-side of the fuse, but is hidden in this photo. The 4AWG cable on the top (switched-side) of the switch runs down to the starter. Inside that small loom in the middle of the junction there that is also running down with the starter power wire is the
(B) Battery Ground BL and the
(N) Starter Lead. The Battery Ground needed to be extended and the Start Lead was rerouted from it's original location near the PCM. You can also see a small loom that contains an 8AWG wire coming off the top of the disconnect switch and running into the dash - this will power everything inside the dash.
Here is the 4 AWG power cable and the
(N) Starter Lead coming out of the harness in the area where the starter will be located.
Here are the 2AWG battery cables and routing. I tapped a 3/8-16 hole for the ground and grounded the main battery cable and the
(B) Battery Ground BL. I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the powder coat and used dielectric grease to keep the connection corrosion-free (I hope).
FFR supplies a 5/16" hole on the engine mount here that is a perfect pilot hole for tapping a 3/8" engine ground.
Here is the mounted PCM and how I routed the cabling here. I cut and capped off the wires for the EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), which I won't need with my KRC hydraulic system, and tucked them inside the harness. Continuing towards the front on this side is the wire for the engine fan and the connections for the MAF and Alternator which I'll deal with later.