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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Started electrical

Hopefully I will get my panels back this weekend and I can run the hard lines, but in the meantime I can still find things to work on. I decided to make a support for the firewall as I have seen others do. I fabricated this with some of the aluminum that I cut out for my trunk box. I left plenty of room above and below to run wires, but also cut a hole in the middle. I know that I need better hole saws, especially before I cut holes in my dash. The hole saw I used left a burr all the way around the hole so I knocked it down with a flap disc. Should I just buy decent brand bi-metal hole saws for the sizes I need or is there a better suggestion?



Brace installed



I installed the Breeze battery box. I ordered some Steel Gray Pearl powder to match what my powder coater is using on my panels and I coated this box myself. It was tricky getting it into my small oven without smearing the powder, but I managed. It did not turn out nearly as good as some of the other pieces I did in black, maybe it's the powder or the size/shape of the part. Oh well, it is going to be pretty much hidden down there so who cares?



I installed my Optima yellow top and soldered/attached my ground cable. Not much more I can do with this until I start to run the harness(es). I am not really looking forward to that part of the build :(



With the battery installed I wanted to make something light up so I pulled out all the tail lights/turn signals and I went ahead and swapped out the bulbs for the LEDs that I purchased. It was a simple process to swap them out and they do appear to be a bit brighter than the incandescent bulbs. If anyone is interested I purchased the iBrightstar 1157 bulbs on Amazon in Brilliant Red and Amber Yellow.



This is the LED headlight that I chose - it is a United Pacific 31391 in chrome. It has good reviews in an LED headlight comparison review that I read and I like that it has retro styling and won't make my car look like a cyborg ;).
 

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For sure do a rough alignment once the drivetrain is in and you have it on the wheels at ride height. Before go-kart. Probably don't have to say this, but both front and back since you have IRS.

For the front brake line, I oriented the fittings down, and installed the flex line in an "S" shape versus the loop. Works find and doesn't touch anything through the full motion of suspension and turning. Pictured below.

For rubbing the "F" panel, if you want to eliminate it, you need spacers in the steering rack. Like these: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=811. In reality, you probably won't be at full travel very often. Only parking in tight quarters, maybe U-turns, etc. Certainly not when going very fast. You can live with it and not really hurt anything. Your choice.

 

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Discussion Starter #63
Door latch mods

I'm kind of at the mercy of the powder coater at this point. They promised me my panels would be done by today but I'm not holding my breath. It may be next weekend before I can get some significant work done. In the meantime I found a few things to work on. I went ahead and did the door latch mods that everyone agrees are essential. I won't go into too much detail as this mod is already well documented, but I bought a couple 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts and cut them down to 3/4" and ground down the heads so they are flat. I knocked down the top lip of the insert with a flap disk so that my washer and nut will hold the lever, and I added lithium grease to all the moving parts. It's way smoother now. I also drilled/tapped the knobs for my 10-32 stainless Torx bolts and filed down the lever stop a bit to allow the striker to fully retract. One less thing to worry about.



 

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Discussion Starter #64
Coyote accelerator pedal

I wasn't really that impressed with the FFR suggested way to graft the supplied pedal onto the Coyote accelerator pedal arm so I thought I could do better, although for a bit more work and expense. I figure if this doesn't work I can always buy the Lokar unit, but I'm pretty sure this is going to work pretty well. I heard that someone removed the pedal pad and just spun it upside down and re-inserted it into the existing hole, but I didn't think that would work too well. For one I feel like the pedal ends up too close to the inside footbox wall and I really didn't like the look of an upside down pedal. I had a thought that I could basically buy a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar and make a new backing plate that basically replaces the wide plastic piece at the bottom of the pedal. With that in place, I would have a lot of flexibility to bolt it to a cut down pedal arm by drilling and tapping the plate for bolts and pieces of aluminum angle that I can through-bolt onto the pedal arm once I find the optimal position. This is my plan and I think it is going to work fine, but I won't do the final fitment until I get my footbox floor and lower-inside wall in place. Here is what I did so far:



I removed the pedal pad and traced the shape of the existing plastic backer and hole location onto a piece of paper, then transferred that to a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar.





After a good bit of cutting and grinding, I had a backer that could slip down inside the bottom of the pedal pad. I cut down the plastic shaft and secured it with the original tapper screw after cutting it to length.





At that point I mounted the accelerator to the bracket and held the pad up to where I felt it would be best and marked the pedal arm. I cut off the excess pieces of the pedal arm to where I can mount the pedal pad. It took removing/remounting the pedal and testing a few times before I got enough plastic cut out. I may have to cut a bit more when it comes time to permanently mount the pedal pad but it's pretty close right now.



And this is about what I will end up with. It's just held in place with some duct tape right now, but I think it will work out just fine. Once I get it secured permanently I will take a few pics detailing how I mounted the pad to the pedal arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Great idea. What does it look like from the back with the accelerator pedal pad attached?


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I'm about to work on that. I plan to drill and tap holes into that backer plate and bolt what's left of that wide plastic flange into the lower corner and use some small pieces of angle aluminum bolted into the backer plate and bolted through the pedal arm. I'll post some pics when I have it finalized.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Panels back from powder coat

I got my panels back from the powder coater late Friday afternoon. I'm happy that they got them done as promised so I could get on with the build. This powder color is Steel Gray Pearlescent from Cardinal Paint. I got the PS footbox and floor installed along with the DS footbox floor, front, and inside bottom wall. I don't think I should install any more panels at this time as I want access to run my hard lines and wiring. What do you think, should I stop here for now or are there some others that I could safely rivet in place now without interfering with access for the rest of the build?





 

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I would suggest that you may have already gone too far with riveting the panels. Unless you have all your fuel, brake, and electrical done, installing the panels can often get in the way. If you have a lift and you can work from underneath the car, might not make a difference, but working on you back under a car on jack stands is not a lot of fun. We all do it our own way, but I simply used clecos to hold the panels in place until it was time to button it all up.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Finished coyote pedal

This is how I attached the coyote pedal after cutting it down. I drilled/tapped the aluminum backer plate and bolted a 10-32 1/2" bolt through what was left of the plastic flange on the bottom and then cut down two aluminum angle pieces and drilled/tapped the backer to hold those on either side of the pedal at the top. I then drilled through both angle pieces and the pedal arm and through-bolted with a 10-32 1-1/4" bolt and nylon lock nut. I then powder coated all the pieces and mounted into the footbox hopefully for the last time. I ended up with about 1-1/2" of clearance from the pedal to the inside footbox wall. I am pleased with how it turned out.







 

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Discussion Starter #70
Hood hinges

I went ahead and powder coated all the hood hinge parts and also the quick jacks. I think I am mostly done powder coating small parts but I'm sure I'll find something else I forgot to do and have to drag it all out again. I assembled the hood hinges and installed loosely on the car so that I can check clearance as I mocked up the rest of the engine compartment.



 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Fuel line installed

This morning I ran my 3/8" Nicopp fuel line. It also came with a Stainless coil spring for extra protection. I attached the line with 1/2" rubber cushioned clamps along the spring and 3/8" on the line, secured with 3/16" rivets. This was my first time bending and flaring and I am happy with the results. I borrowed the Eastwood flaring tool from a friend and a line straighter from another and it made the job super easy, even for first time. The Nicopp is flexible enough that I could do final bending and by hand at the ends. I hope to get the brake lines done by this weekend.









 

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Discussion Starter #72
Charcoal filter mounting

I mounted my rainbird popup sprinkler head charcoal filter to the DS above the rear shock. I used a 1 1/4" conduit clamp that I went ahead and powder coated black with my last batch of parts that I coated. I attached the conduit clamp and the cushioned clamp on the hose with Rivnuts that are in the 3/4" tube behind the aluminum piece. I secured the line under the trunk with a couple more 3/4" clamps secured with 3/16" rivets. Hopefully by running the line all the way to the DS and up high it will prevent any fuel from sloshing out.



 

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Discussion Starter #73
Triple reservoir complete

I got my triple reservoir and hoses mounted in their final location. I wanted to run the three hoses through rubber grommets in the block-off plate for the clutch cable hole in the front of the pedal box. I found that the hole was not quite big enough so I needed to open it up. This was not the best time to be cutting a hole since I had already mounted my front pedal box aluminum. I ended up using a scrap piece of aluminum and cleco'ed it behind the opening to provide material for the pilot hole of the 2" hole saw. It was a bit hairy but I managed to get the hole cut out and looking fairly neat.

You can see the scrap aluminum for the pilot that I cleco'ed behind the hole above the pedal box bracket. You can see some scratches where I just held up the hole saw and attempted to cut without the pilot hole material - yeah, that was not going to work.




Here is the rough hole before I cleaned it up, filed it smooth, and painted the edge with some rattle can black.



Here is the finished product with the block-off plate, grommets, and hoses in place.

 

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Discussion Starter #74
Brake lines complete

I spent probably 10 hrs total running my brake lines. I have to say this is probably my least favorite part of the build so far. I had to redo about 3 lines in the process but overall I am pleased with how it turned out. Luckily I was using Nicopp lines and borrowed an Eastwood flaring tool from a buddy or else it would have been a lot harder. I've got nothing but respect for you guys that can do this in stainless! I decided to just stick with the provided insulated clips and rivets to secure the lines - I just didn't see much ROI for buying anything fancier or tapping the holes for bolts. I did end up having to buy some slightly larger cushioned clamps to go over the stainless spring armor that runs over the tubing along the bottom of the 4" rails.

For my front brake routing I decided to come over and down along the 3/4" tube that comes out the front of the pedal box.



Here is the line coming up and over and running down the top of the 3/4" tube to the LF brake. You can see I put a rubber grommet on the line before I flared it. I intend to notch the top of the block-off plate that covers the slot there and slide the grommet in.



Here is the Tee fitting at the LF brake.



Down the X-brace as others have done.



And the connection to the RF brake.

 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Rear brakes

For the rear brakes I came over and down behind the bracket for the accelerator pedal.



I used a single union on the run to the rear, up behind the accelerator bracket. I decided on this location so that I could run the stainless coil spring the full length along the 4" rail. I racked my brain trying to figure out how to do this in a single run. I punted - I was ready for this job to be over. Again, nothing but respect for those of you that do this in a single run.



Coming out the bottom of the footbox. You can see I used another rubber grommet to fill the 7/16" hole I had to drill to fit the tube nut.



Running along the 4" rail. I had to buy some 5/16" cushioned clamps to fit over the stainless spring armor. I'm not sure if the stainless spring is necessary, but it came with the Nicopp line so I was going to use it. More protection for the lines running along the bottom of the rail is a good thing, IMO.



Coming up the 2x3 tube.



The rear Tee near the LR brake



And finally the connection to the RR brake.



I'm glad that is done. I'm going to fill and bleed the system this afternoon and check for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I got the brakes filled and bled yesterday afternoon. I had my son come over and do the "pump and hold" while I went around working the bleeders with some 1/4" vinyl tubing and a jar. Being my first time it took about an hour before we got them all bled and used about 1 1/2" bottles of brake fluid. The fronts bled pretty easily but couldn't get the rear brake to operate properly until I realized I need to bleed from both the inside and outside bleeders on the rear. Only had one small leak at the rear tee union but just tightened it up a bit more and that was it.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Coyote accelerator RHS support

Just a quick update on a mod I did on the Coyote accelerator last time I put it back in. I didn't like the fact that it was only attached to the bracket on the LHS as it tended to kick it out away from the bracket on the RHS and allow some movement. Probably not a big deal but it bothered me so I made an attachment for the RHS. I cut down a piece of aluminum and pressed it in between the ribs on the back. I then drilled a hole through it and tapped it for 10-32 screws. I also drilled and tapped the pedal bracket. I had to drill a clearance hole through the bracket that is welded to the frame at that location as well so that the screw can pass through. I then just cut and drilled a small piece of angle and bolted it down. Now it's rock-solid on the RHS as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #78
Coyote harness and power started

I've started laying out and attaching the Coyote harness and various bits for the power wiring. This is an area of the build I have been intimidated about since I first started thinking about the build. Hopefully my confidence will grow and it will all make sense by the time I turn that key for the first time. Shout out to Paul for answering my questions, it is greatly appreciated. You will notice the similarity to Paul's power wiring. He did a great job and I'm following his layout closely. I hope to be able to avoid any issues and be prepared so that I can drop the engine/trans in a single time only.

Here you can see I mounted the Coyote PDB on the DS above the trans tunnel, on the large tube. I used 5/16-18 rivnuts, nuts, bolts, and lock washers. I cut a 2" hole in the firewall with the hole about 1/2" above the tube and close to the firewall support I added.



This is a shot from below looking up towards the PDB. You can see I installed the battery disconnect switch (from FFR) and the 250A fuse block that comes with the Coyote control packs. to mount the fuse block under the PDB I used a 10-32 rivnut in the 3/4" tube on the right and then used 1 1/4" of nylon spacers and a 2" 10-32 bolt from HD to mount the left through the aluminum panel.



Here is the PCM bracket and Coyote PCM mounted above the PS footbox.



I also went ahead and mounted the fuse box bracket for the Ron Francis wiring harness. I made a bracket to secure that loose corner as others have done.



Now I'm just waiting on some wire, lugs, heat shrink and other bits to arrive so that I can start hooking all of this up. I'm also reviewing the documentation again trying to wrap my head around all of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Cable Crimper

EdwardB mentioned the hydraulic cable crimper he found online and I ended up buying the same unit so thought I would post some more info for those interested. Search for YQK-70 - It was about $40 on Amazon. At first I was going to use the fusion lugs and terminals with the solder slug inside but I saw they are around $6-$10 each and I need about 12 of them so that's $72 right there. The basic tinned copper lugs are only about $1 each so was easy for me to justify the investment.

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It easily makes nice 6-sided crimps that are very strong. I put two crimps on the battery terminals because they are so long, and only 1 on the standard lugs.




I had to find a chart to convert the die sizes to AWG. Here it is:

Code:
[B]AWG  MM2[/B]
12    4
10    6
10-8  8
8     10
6     15
4     25
2     35
1/0   50
2/0   70
 
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