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Discussion Starter #21
Alternator installed

I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.





The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?

 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Oil pan and pickup - Take 2!

I guess it's more important to post about your failures than your successes so that others can benefit from the experience. That being said, as I was taking the box for my oil pan pickup to the recycle bin I found a small envelope with a large O-Ring in it! Oops, I'm guessing that is important, so everything is coming back off. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it gave me an opportunity to double-check the issue that Ducky2009 (from the other forum) was bringing up and he was 100% correct!

Here is the O-Ring I didn't notice the first time, so got that in place


One quick look at the oil pan and it was obvious that the "slight interference" I was feeling was much bigger than I thought and exactly as Ducky described. Hopefully this will be useful to others, you can't just assume that what worked for others will work for you. You need to test this. It's as easy as putting the oil pan in place and installing a few bolts to hold it and then insert and remove your dipstick several times and the steel dipstick will easily scratch the aluminum to show you exactly where contact is happening.



A center punch and step drill made quick work of opening up this area for the dipstick. Cleaning out all the chips again is a pain, but two-steps forward and 1 step back seems to be my MO. Now that last inch of inserting the dipstick is completely smooth and I no longer hear any contact being made - problem solved!



You can see from this photo there is a rather large area that the dipstick can emerge from so easy to see that the path it takes can vary quite a bit depending on the engine, the pan, and how you choose to insert the dipstick.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
Powertrain mostly assembled

Well another week has gone buy and my kit is still sitting in the warehouse at FFR :( Jolene at Stewart Transport implied that my kit may get picked up next week, but she didn't actually commit so fingers crossed. I did receive the correct wide engine cradle from stumpysfabworks so I was able to get the Coyote off the engine stand and get some work done on my powertrain.

Cleaned the flywheel and clutch plates very well with brake cleaner and acetone and got the clutch installed with the alignment tool and properly torqued down.







Next I got the bellhousing installed and torqued down to the backer plate and the block.



I then was able to setup and install my Tilton release bearing. It's a fairly simple process that requires measuring with calipers and a straight edge from the face of the bellhousing to where the bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring fingers. You then subtract .125 for an air gap. In my case that came out to 3.84". You then turn the threaded adjustment sleeve on the release bearing until you set that distance from the front of the bearing to the face of the transmission where the bellhousing is mounted. You then remove one of the transmission bearing bolts and replace it with the supplied threaded guide rod which prevents the HRB from rotating.



If the guide rod extends beyond the face of the bearing you are supposed to cut it down to avoid interference. In my case it did not, but I cut it down anyway because I'm afraid there could be possible contact with the centrifugal weights on the Centerforce clutch and that would be bad. You just need enough rod to prevent rotation.

 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

UPDATE: Just to clarify, the correct bolts are Grade 10.9 Flanged Head M10-1.5 x 30mm. The official part from Quick Time is RM-170 but a little pricey. I just picked up some bolts at my local hardware store. The threads on my bellhousing were a little jacked so I chased them with a tap and all is good now.

 

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That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.
Records I have show M10x1.5 mm thread, class 10.9 (high strength). Good hardware store should have them.

Too bad to hear about the delivery issues. Has to hurt...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Records I have show M10x1.5 mm thread, class 10.9 (high strength). Good hardware store should have them.

Too bad to hear about the delivery issues. Has to hurt...
I have some 10.9 M10x1.5 that were used for the engine stand to block that I tried. They thread in about 2-3 turns then bind up, I don't want to force them in. Does this no matter which side I thread them from on the bellhousing. Maybe the threads are bad but from a company like QuickTime I find that hard to believe. I'll give them a call on Monday. I may have to chase them with a tap.

Yeah, waiting up to my promised pickup date was tough. Waiting another 3 weeks after that date (so far) is agonizing.
 

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I have some 10.9 M10x1.5 that were used for the engine stand to block that I tried. They thread in about 2-3 turns then bind up, I don't want to force them in. Does this no matter which side I thread them from on the bellhousing. Maybe the threads are bad but from a company like QuickTime I find that hard to believe. I'll give them a call on Monday. I may have to chase them with a tap.
They should go in from either side. No difference there. 2-3 turns is maybe a lot if not the right size/pitch. Agree they may need to be chased, but hasn't been my experience with QuickTime products. Agree they are typically first rate. Probably best to call QuickTime. In absence of any other information.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
They should go in from either side. No difference there. 2-3 turns is maybe a lot if not the right size/pitch. Agree they may need to be chased, but hasn't been my experience with QuickTime products. Agree they are typically first rate. Probably best to call QuickTime. In absence of any other information.
Yeah you were right Paul. I picked up some bolts at the local hardware store and chased the holes with a tap. All good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Here is a shot from inside the bellhousing after trans installed. It's a bit hard to make out but you can see the 1/8" clearance between bearing and fingers and looks to be no interference issues at all. Cool :cool:

 

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Discussion Starter #31
Stewart Transport update

Got an email from Stewart Transport that increased their estimated delays from 7-10 days to 21 days. I called FFR and talked to someone in the warehouse and they said that Stewart was sending 2 trucks this week and that they are "up to" the week of my build, but they don't think my kit is going to make it onto either of those trucks - not what I wanted to hear. Here is a photo of my kit sitting in the warehouse. Poor thing looks so homesick to me.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Glovebox upgrades

This week I received the standard glovebox I ordered from Alex's Custom Roadsters. Overall I am impressed with the quality of the glovebox and I think it will look great on my dash. I sent Alex a piece of my interior leather and he covered the door with it and did a great job. The door is heavy and solid and the latches are very substantial - it's WAY better than the cheap glovebox on Factory Five's padded dash, which will bend like a piece of thin paper if you push on one side of it. There are a couple upgrades I made to the glovebox, however. First you can see that the latch slides into a slot cut into the top of the glovebox. I found that depending on how much pressure you use when closing the door that the latch may not always line up with the slot so may take a bit of back and forth movement to find the right position. I made a back stop out of 3/4" aluminum angle for a positive stop right at the slot - gave me a chance to practice with my powder coating setup as well. I also purchased some nylon flocking fibers, acrylic paint, and a flocking tube from craftflocking.com and flocked the inside of the glovebox. I like the velvety look and feel much more than the shiny plastic.







 

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Discussion Starter #34
Great idea on the flocking.
It's pretty simple. The kit I put together was $16 but I could probably do several more gloveboxes , I bought way more fibers than needed. One tip would be to make sure the paint is very smooth before you spray on the fibers. There are a couple areas where it doesn't look completely smooth, but not too noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
My kit has finally arrived!

Well after many weeks delay my kit has finally arrived. I promise I'll stop complaining about how long it is taking now ;)





 

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Discussion Starter #40
This weeks update

I'm waiting on control arms for the front and rear, toe arms for the rear, and all four shocks - that going to put a damper on the suspension assembly for awhile, but there is plenty to work on.



I got the body on the buck and the boxes in the garage. I've started inventory, that is going to take awhile.



I got all the chassis installed panels marked and removed



I mocked up the dual stainless breeze roll bars. I've got a welder lined up to come over and tack them and make a couple other welds for me and he wanted some pics.



I don't want to see any of the brackets for the tank straps in the trunk, so I decided to cut them both off. I'll fabricate a new bracket out of 16 ga steel to weld in at the same height as the DS bracket, and modify the PS strap to fit.



I got the diff painted with POR-15.



I'm also a member of the "yes I have friends, no they weren't available to help" school of roadster assembly. Between my floor jack with homemade trans platform, engine crane, and tie-down straps I was able to get it into place all by myself and all four of the bolts went in with little effort. Woot!

 
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