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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - fully titled and registered

While my Kit is still about 3 weeks from delivery, I have actually started working on it already so I decided to go ahead and start a build thread so that I can consolidate all my updates and questions into a single thread. If you count the obsessive research I have been doing online, I guess you could say I have been "working" on it since December 2017. I attended the Mott Build School the weekend of 3/9 - 3/11, which I found to be excellent. I met a lot of cool people including a few more builders here in Texas.

I've always loved the Shelby Cobra as long as I can remember, and have thought about building a replica off and on over the years. I finally got my mind set that I was going to build a Factory Five roadster and with a tepid buy-in from the wife (she is coming around, or at least accepted it is inevitable now) it is on now. Besides, I was born in 1965 so it's like it was meant to be ;)

Here is my planned build:

MK4 Complete Kit with IRS
Coyote 5.0L
Tremec TKO 600
Quicktime Bellhousing
Ford Performance Clutch
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
KRC Power Steering
Koni single-adjustable shocks
13" Wilwood brakes
18" Halibrand Wheels
Stainless side pipes

Other Upgrades
Dual Breeze Stainless Roll Bars
Russ Thompson Trunk Box (yes I'm going to cut the diagonals)
Russ Thompson turn signals
Competition Gauge Layout
Leather Covered Dash w/ Glove Box
USB Charger, 12V adapter, Footwell Lights (hidden under dash)
Leather Removable Trans Tunnel Cover
Leather Bucket Seats
Leather Door Panels
LED Headlights, turn signals, tail/brake lights, dash indicators

Color is undecided at this point, probably one of the first items I ever thought about and will probably be the last decision I make.

I'm really looking forward to this process and want to thank everyone that has helped me already and those that will in the future. This forum and it's participants are an invaluable resource! My experience with working on cars in not very extensive. I have installed LED lighting in the front and rear of my truck, replaced a radiator on my Z3 I used to own several years ago, and some basic maintenance, but that is about it. I've done quite a few jobs around the house (electrical, plumbing, etc.) and ran network wiring and camera systems in two offices so I know my way around tools, oh and I am REAL good at Googling and YouTubing.


Here is my one-car garage where I will be building. It's a little tight, but I have 1/2 of the 2 car garage just across from this one to store my body and boxes of parts. Up to this point I've just been getting this work area ready.


I had a large monitor and a Chrome Box at the office that were not being used so I mounted them on the wall over one of my workbenches and connected to my home WiFi - this should be very useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Body Buck

Here is the body buck I built to store the body and boxes. I built this using the instructions in the PDF from Factory Five. It's in the two-car garage parked next to my wife's car.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tremec TKO 600

The first part I ordered and received was the Tremec TKO 600 Upgraded/Synchronized from Liberty Gears. It has the .62 5th gear, which I think is the best choice for highway cruising. Unfortunately Liberty Gears forgot to add milling off the tail housing to my work order as I requested. They apologized and offered to have me ship it back but that is just too much trouble, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn how to use my new Dewalt 11amp angle grinder.



I marked it and started with a cutting wheel. I removed the guard otherwise it was just too hard to get in there. After a bit of cutting on both sides I whacked it with the hammer and it came right off.



I then figured it would be good to practice with the grinding disc and the flap wheel since I will need to cut the rear spindles soon enough and make them pretty. Didn't turn out too bad. I made sure to cut plenty off as I read that a few people discovered they had to cut more off once they tried dropping in the motor and trans - I want to avoid that headache.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
Parts are rolling in now

I got a few boxes in from Summit Racing today. Quicktime bellhousing, Moroso oil pan and pickup, Moroso radiator reservoir, air intake parts, Tilton hydraulic release bearing and master cylinder, and a few other items.



I bought the steel Quicktime bellhousing and also picked up a Summit universal driveshaft loop, at the recommendation of the instructors at Mott College. I think it's good insurance should something catastrophic happen on either side of the transmission. I'd kind of attached to most of my body parts and intend to keep it that way.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oil pan questions

Here is a pic of the oil pan. I notice it has a plug on either side and on each end, with one of the plugs missing. I assume the plug in the rear is the oil drain plug, what are the others for? I want to ditch the clock that comes with my vintage gauge kit and add an oil temperature gauge (yes I know probably unnecessary for my needs, but I want it anyway). Would I use one of these holes for the oil temp sender? Which hole should I use and what is the recommended sender unit for my application?

 

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Looks like you are off to a great start. Your shop is organized and you have a good plan for the build.

What generation of the Coyote are your FFR instructions for? I am building a Mustang restomod that I am putting a second generation Coyote into. If your manual is for a 2nd gen engine, would you mind sharing a PDF copy with me. I would like to use it as a reference guide. My controls pack kit will arrive the middle of next week and I would like to compare the Ford Performance instructions with those from FFR.

For what it is worth, I used Levittown Ford Part to source my controls pack, $150 less than Summit.

BTW, an appropriate sender for your gauges should be supplied by the vendor, however you will likely have to buy adapters for it to fit the Moroso pan.

PM me if you can share the Coyote install instructions.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks like you are off to a great start. Your shop is organized and you have a good plan for the build.

What generation of the Coyote are your FFR instructions for? I am building a Mustang restomod that I am putting a second generation Coyote into. If your manual is for a 2nd gen engine, would you mind sharing a PDF copy with me. I would like to use it as a reference guide. My controls pack kit will arrive the middle of next week and I would like to compare the Ford Performance instructions with those from FFR.

For what it is worth, I used Levittown Ford Part to source my controls pack, $150 less than Summit.

BTW, an appropriate sender for your gauges should be supplied by the vendor, however you will likely have to buy adapters for it to fit the Moroso pan.

PM me if you can share the Coyote install instructions.

Alan
The latest Coyote instructions are dated 4/28/2017, nothing new for Gen3 yet. You can download it from here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/

Thanks, I'll contact SpeedHut and discuss the sender with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?



Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?


 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Received my engine today

Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?

 

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Have you bought your controls pack kit yet? If not, I just received mine from Levittown Ford Parts this week. They are $150 less than Summit and other distributors with free shipping in the US. My Coyote is going in a Mustang and has the AT. It took about 6 weeks before it drop shipped directly from Ford Performance. Mike at Levittown kept me in the loop as I had two ship dates that were missed by FP. I highly recommend them for their prices and service.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you bought your controls pack kit yet? If not, I just received mine from Levittown Ford Parts this week. They are $150 less than Summit and other distributors with free shipping in the US. My Coyote is going in a Mustang and has the AT. It took about 6 weeks before it drop shipped directly from Ford Performance. Mike at Levittown kept me in the loop as I had two ship dates that were missed by FP. I highly recommend them for their prices and service.

Alan
I did order it from Don Wood and was cheaper than Summit. It's backordered, along with my alternator, but they said should ship at end of month.
 

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Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?



Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?


The T-56 that I received for my Coupe build a few weeks ago had the same plug in the external speed control port. I checked it out, and it's a very substantial metal plug with an O-ring and bolt. Very different than the rubber shipping plug they used to put there which had to be replaced if you didn't install a speed sensor. It's every bit as good as the various billet pieces available. Nothing further to do IMO. Thank you Tremec.

The connection with the pigtails at the back is the neutral safety switch. Unless you're planning to wire something like that (most don't...) you don't need it. The clutch switches with your Coyote installation provide a very adequate safety setup if installed as instructed. On the TKO's I've installed, I just clipped off the leads at the base. If you're not comfortable doing that, tie off the lead so it doesn't dangle.

The connection with the plug on the RH side is the internal speed sensor. The Coyote PCM doesn't required a speed signal. If you have the GPS speedo, you don't need it there either. Your Ron Francis harness though has a pigtail and connection for there. On my Anniversary Roadster build, I went ahead and plugged in the RF connection just to cover the connector and keep the RF pigtail from dangling. The wires aren't connected to anything up at the dash. But they're available if ever needed.

Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?

I don't remember the exact size, but it is a hex socket that is visible when you remove the oil filter. Same exact socket as in the short adapter you already have on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? They seemed perfectly fine, no galling of any kind that I could see. This is probably not news to most, but in order to keep the flywheel from turning while removing/installing the bolts I used a couple of the pressure plate bolts and a pry bar between them. I wish I had my clutch to install but it is supposed to ship on Monday.



I went to a local Cobra Club meet on Saturday and when I got back my Wilwood brakes were waiting for me! I couldn't resist putting those together. I discovered that safety wiring is not one of my favorite tasks, but I managed to get through all four rotors. I'm glad that is over with. These brakes look awesome, I can't wait to bolt them in place!







One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UX6A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner
 

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There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? T
Stock flywheel bolts are torque to yield, meaning they should be replaced. If you may be doing this a couple times, it may be worth going to ARP bolts but otherwise just getting new OEM ones will be more cost effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?

 

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Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?
You're looking at two different thread types there. The two plugs with no head or washer (intended for optional supercharger drain back and oil temperature sender) are tapered 1/2-inch NPT threads. They should be tight after 4-5-6 turns. Standard practice on that type of thread to use a sealant or tape. For automotive use, I strongly recommend sealant. But that's a whole other discussion. Either will work in this application. The other two -- the drain plug and oil level sensor you pictured -- are straight cut threads and use a copper crush washer. No sealant required, although it's generally recommended to use a new crush washer each time it's removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Hopefully my kit will be picked up this week, but no word on that yet. I didn't get a whole lot of work done this weekend because I couldn't get the engine on the stand. I couldn't source the grade 10.9 M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts locally so going to have to wait on a delivery from McMaster this week. I did manage to get a few things done, however.

As others have mentioned, I removed some material in the oil pan in the area that may cause interference with the dipstick. I used a rotary burr file on the angle grinder to get the bulk of the material off and finished it up with small sanding drums on the Dremel. Cleaning out all the bits of aluminum was a pain. I removed that top plate and then used hot water and Simple Green. I wiped it out with paper towels and then blew it out with my compressor. It took awhile but I finally got it all out.



I got my clutch in this week and of course the dowels had to be swapped so I took the flywheel back off. I flipped it upside down and laid it across a couple 2x4's and drove out the old dowels with a 1/4" punch.



To drive the new dowels in I used a cool tip I saw on Youtube. I took a large bolt and I drilled a 1/4" hole into the head just deep enough to set the dowels slightly recessed into the flywheel. I also ground off the raised identification letters on the head of the bolt so that it wouldn't stamp them into the flywheel. I have no idea if that would actually happen, but didn't want to take a chance. I also left the dowels in the freezer overnight, just a touch of oil, used my homemade starter punch, and they drove in very easily. Flywheel is now installed with new flywheel bolts, properly torqued to 177 in/lbs + 60 degrees.







I borrowed lift brackets from a friend so I was finally able to get the engine off the pallet. I may have to shorten those chains when I am putting it in the car to get enough height out of it. I put the motor on the fixed engine cradle I bought from https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ so that I could drain the oil. Of course I then realized I bought the wrong cradle. It works great for the stock oil pan but it isn't going to clear the Moroso pan. I emailed Kurt asking if I could exchange it, hopefully that won't be an issue. For those looking for an engine cradle, the price and quality is right at Stumpy's. The model you want for the Coyote and the Moroso pan is the MOD-PAW - "W" for Wide.



 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can confirm that the tool you need to get that oil cooler off is a 14mm hex. It came off real easy with the proper bit and a ratchet.




This is what a homer bucket of synthetic motor oil looks like. I bought a clean bucket and lid on my last trip to Home Depot so that I could save and reuse all this. Well I guess there isn't anything for me to do at this point until I get those bolts in and get the engine on the stand. Hopefully next update will be with the oil pan and pickup, clutch, bellhousing, Tilton hydraulic unit, and transmission all installed.

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
This is the sort of random thing my mind comes up with when I have nothing to work on. I was looking at the stand for the monitor I mounted on the wall. It's pretty thick 12 ga steel with a plastic cover and I got an idea. 30 minutes later after using a 1" hole saw on it and then opening it up a bit more with the Dremel, I now have a pretty decent transmission platform for my floor jack. This should prove useful for the rear diff and the gas tank.



 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oil pan and pickup swapped out

Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up :( I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.





Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?

 
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