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Discussion Starter #1
So, I was trying to finish the plumbing before I started with the engine compartment wiring, and I needed a port for a barbed hose fitting to connect from the intake manifold to the heater. So I located a plug that wasn't being used for anything else, and proceeded to attempt to remove it.
IMAG1261 by Rick Paul, on Flickr
All the other plugs that I needed to remove came out with a minor fight, but they came out clean, no problem. The one that is circled in red in the photo was another story. Would not budge using a 5/16" allen wrench, so I scraped off any sealer that was around the edges of the threads, and saturated it with PB Blaster, and left it overnight. Applied some more today, and figured I'd get a 5/16" socket with an allen wrench, (not sure what they are called), so that I could get more leverage. Mounted it in a breaker bar, and proceeded to try to loosen it. All I managed to do was to screw up the allen socket in the plug, so that the wrench is useless at this point.
So now I need to figure what I can do to remove this buggered up plug. Do I need to drill through, and use an easy out, or...?
All suggestions will help. I'm in unknown territory.

Thanks
 

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that sucks!

Hey Rick,

If it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any at all! Just not fair!

I think you said you have a MIG welder in an earlier post...if so...take a dremel and expose clean metal on the NPT plug and the hex socket, then weld the two together. Clip the ground lead from the welder on a socket extension holding he hex socket. The heat from the welding will also help loosen the plug for you.
Then use an impact driver on the hex socket, not a breaker bar.

Remember to unplug /disconnect any engine computers before welding.

I'm tied up this week/weekend, but can come up and help you next week any day but Wed. PM me if you want me to come up. I have a "big" Milwaukee Impact Driver that puts out 500 ft lbs of torque I can bring.

No worries!
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave. I'll have to get back to you. As usual, when I start to make progress on the car, either something like this happens, or work rolls in to stall my progress. This time both at the same time. I'll have to see how my schedule works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
grlu1si150, that's what I was trying to do before my disaster of trying to remove that plug. The problem has been that I didn't have enough clearance for a tee, but a member on the other forum, Papa/Dave, posted a part from Breeze that I think may clear, and provide me with the fittings that I need. I'm going to contact Mark at Breeze on Friday to see if his fitting will clear. Fingers crossed.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong. But the plug you are trying to remove looks like it may be in a coolant passage...for a temp sensor maybe? I'm thinking it's unlikely to be vacuum judging by its proximity to the t/stat housing?
 

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Hi Rick,
If I understand right, you're plumbing to get water to your heater core?

If so, that port you're selecting is too small. Maybe the one seen in the left side of your photo will work good for you.

I've attached a pic of mine. Hope this helps. The bronze piece is the tee I purchased from Breeze.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hefbadr, I'm not looking for vacuum, I'm trying to plumb in my heater.

Dave, I'm actually using that port for my water temp gauge sensor, but it's too close to the front throttle body to be able to thread in a tee. Papa, on the other site, posted a part that Mark at Breeze carries that just might clear, and it has multiple ports. I'm going to contact Mark, and find out if it will work for me.
 

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I hope you solve it!

Until then, I would love to see more pics of your engine. The teaser shot you included looks great!

Geoff
 

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It's a Cobra, you don't need a heater. HTHs... >:)
 

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Time for an EZ out...

Rick,

Sorry to hear about your dilemma.

Your last words (from your original post) are the direction I'd follow next.

Drill out and use an EZ out.

On another note, some of the replies elude to this being a vacuum port, while others say coolant. Either way, you were originally looking for the heater (coolant) port, which is shown on the left side of your photo next to the distributor, above the thermostat housing.

Keep us posted on your progress.

HTH,
Will
 

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I can't quite see it in your picture. But, my thermostat housing had a spot in the casting that I drilled out and tapped for my temp sensor. Then I used the port in the manifold, on the left of the picture that Dadof Three mentioned for the heater return. Maybe just a different way around it.
 

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The fitting you're trying to remove is in the coolant. I used the same port for the temp sensor for my computer. Just to clarify, any port on the manifold is an outlet to the heater, the return from the heater goes to the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Geoff, I've been really bad about posting pictures. When it's been six years to get to this point, I figured everybody would be bored with a build thread! I'll try to get some additional pictures up.
Mike, dont laugh. I started to consider that option. Nicething is I can abandon it without any damaged to my firewall, because of how and where I mounted the heater.
LuvAz, I had checked with the manifold manufacturer to confirm that the port I was trying to use was a coolant port. That port on the left would work if I could fit a tee to use it for both, but the throttle body interferes with anything but a single use.
Avalanche, I need two temperature sensors, one for the fuel injectio, and one for the water temp gauge. That port I was trying to use would have solved my issue, but now a new plan is in order.
Rich, succucint as usual. I'm using the port on top of the thermostat for the computer temp sensor. I was hoping to use the new one for the heater supply.
Hopefully the fitting that Mark at Breeze offers will solve the clearance issue. We'll find out tomorrow.
 

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If you run a T in the port by the thermostat for one of your sensors and a heater feed line, you may need to use a continuous flow heater control valve like the ones used for the Coyote engine. I tried putting my rad fan sensor there with the regular heater control valve and it wouldn't activate the fan unless the heater was on a little. I bought a new thermostat housing with a port in it and moved that sensor to that spot. Works flawlessly for controlling the fan however I wouldn't use it for any sensor for a temperature gauge or computer. It doesn't get hot until the thermostat opens.

To get the plug out circled in your original post, I would get a Torx bit and tap it into the hole. Then remove the bit, carefully heat the whole area with a heat gun, then put ice the hole in the plug to cool it quickly, then drive the Torx bit back in and try an impact driver to remove it.

Good luck

Norm

PS. From what I can see you have a great looking engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Norm. I'm still waiting on Mark at Breeze to find out whether the adapter that he has will clear the throttle body at the hole on the top left of the intake manifold. If it will, problem solved. Otherwise, I'll keep this process in mind should I end up going back to trying to get the plug out again.
 
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