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Discussion Starter #1
I took down the seams yesterday and I think they came out pretty good. I do have some questions though. Should I remove the gray gelcoat stripe in the middle?

I also burned through the gelcoat along the seams in the areas that my panels are really uneven. Is this going to be a problem or can I still fill and feather the same way or do I need to do something special to those areas?

What is the best stuff to use to fill the pin holes, my body is covered with them.

BTW I'm using West System. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mike

 

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Mike,

You were a little agressive with the grinder but it will be Ok. Don't worry about pin holes at this time.

Hand sand the gelcoat with 100 along the outside the area that you ground out. Using blue masking tape strike a tape line on the gelcoat all around the seams. This will take 5 minutes and control the epoxy from going where you don't want it.

Use a sharp object and polk along the joint to remove any loose material. Blow it off with the air hose.

Mix a couple squirts of resin and hardner and add 410 until it's thick enough to control. Start with a small amount and after a couple batches you will get a feel for the product. We only mix enough for one fender at a time. Keep the first application as thin as possible to saturate the raw seam. In an hour or so pull the tape. It can be lightly sanded the next day using 60 or 80 grit.

Repeat the above, mixing it a little thicker. Pull the tape and do some shaping the next day with the longblock and 100 grit. Don't load it on real thick because 2 or 3 gradual buildups are very easy to sand and shape.

You will find a few sections that may need a third application, but don't be in a rush at this point as this is not the time to be in a hurry.

West Systems in not designed to flash harden in 5 minutes but is very workable in 24 hours.

Fill the pin holes with 3M vinylester fairing filler.

I usually apply it with a plastic spreader. The underside of the hood is easy to spread with epoxy and nicely fairs out with 100 grit on a DA sander.

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Roger should I take the time to remove the gelcoat from the center of the seams.

Also shouldn't I do the first fill with out filler like in your video.

Thanks Mike
 

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Mike,
Well you started..your screwed now


You see once if inflect the damage to your car you can only say " I can fix it"! I think everyone will say take out the stripe. I havn't watched the video again yet so I'll post latter when I do, so far it looks like mine. One little problem I had when I ground down the seams was that a went a hard on my first panel and now have to fix some flatness I created....watch out for that. When you grind out the strip you will see the voids / holes you might have read about...it's very obvious.

Mike
 

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Dont forget the wax and grease remover before any grinding and sanding.
Then take a wire brush and tap it all over the entire body, hood, doors, and trunk. Use some force to open up any voids under and in the gelcoat. I had many bad areas on my hood and trunk, not so many on the body. After sanding, repeat the tapping process. You do not want to leave any of these voids unfilled. It will sink later after paint is finished.

Keith, you watching this?

Chainsaws not allowed!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did the commit with a scotch bright pad. I didn't like all the warning labels on the wax & grease remover. HOPE THAT WILL DO IT.
Mike
 

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I found a perfect tool for removing the seam and that thin line of gel down to a point of laying in the filler from Eastwood. They sell a three piece carbide bit set used on a die grinder. The Christmas Tree Shaped item works perfect removing about a half inch wide gap and a perfect tapper into the hole..

I first bought a non-carbide tip and it burned right up .. The Eastwood tool is simple and gives a straight clean cut ready to be filled with the 3-m or west....
 

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Joe,
You mean like this?

That's what I use. Works great!
 
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