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No kidding, they are NOT cheap!
Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. 4 trap doors around the pickup for oil control, a full windage tray and crank scraper to keep the oil away from the crank, all included in the price. Once you add those things to the other pans out there, it's a wash.

And, as I stated, Aviaid is the original Cobra race pan.
 

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I'll past on some info that I learned several years ago.

Clay check your oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan. It should be 1/4" to 3/8" range. I like 1/4", close enough to get nearly all the oil but not any heavy trash.

I put Play Doh in a zip lock bag or plastic wrap to keep the Play Doh from sticking to the oil pick up. A ball about the size of a golf ball works great. Flatten it till it's about 3/4" and the size of the pick up screen.
Place the bag on the bottom of the pick up and install the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts.
Remove the pan and check the thickest of the Play Doh. Carefully cutting though the center of the Doh with a razer knife.
Measure the thickest to see if falls within the range.

Also check to see if the screen is parallel to the pan. Look at the Doh to see if one side is thicker than the other.

Adjust the oil pick up tube by bending. Sometime you need to heat it with a torch to get it to bend enough to meet your needs.
Be careful not to crush the tube. Slow and easy. Don't get in a hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'll past on some info that I learned several years ago.

Clay check your oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan. It should be 1/4" to 3/8" range. I like 1/4", close enough to get nearly all the oil but not any heavy trash.

I put Play Doh in a zip lock bag or plastic wrap to keep the Play Doh from sticking to the oil pick up. A ball about the size of a golf ball works great. Flatten it till it's about 3/4" and the size of the pick up screen.
Place the bag on the bottom of the pick up and install the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts.
Remove the pan and check the thickest of the Play Doh. Carefully cutting though the center of the Doh with a razer knife.
Measure the thickest to see if falls within the range.

Also check to see if the screen is parallel to the pan. Look at the Doh to see if one side is thicker than the other.

Adjust the oil pick up tube by bending. Sometime you need to heat it with a torch to get it to bend enough to meet your needs.
Be careful not to crush the tube. Slow and easy. Don't get in a hurry.
Great recs. Would not have thought of it unless you brought it up. Ended up going with a kevko pan for cobra kits that I bought off another member. Don't plan on tracking/ racing so some of the fancier pans with all the trap doors probably won't be necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
rear sump pick up support stud

so I ordered a support stud to support my rear sump oil pick up.
should I use a thread locker on the nut holding the pick up to the stud, a lock washer, or neither when installing the nut?
just wanted to make sure it wouldn't vibrate off over time.
 

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Dwight: "Clay check your oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan."

Do not skip this step! I did and found out inadequate oil pan to pick up clearance costs about $1000 per 1/8" :)

I used Gordon's pan. One of the plug bungs was not very flat and it took a while to get it not to leak. Nice pan for the money though.
 

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so I ordered a support stud to support my rear sump oil pick up.
should I use a thread locker on the nut holding the pick up to the stud, a lock washer, or neither when installing the nut?
just wanted to make sure it wouldn't vibrate off over time.
When I called Ford Tech Support about moving the main cap stud, the technician recommended a drop or two of red loc-tite on the nut & torque to 30 foot-pounds. However, I know of at least one engine builder who skips the loc-tite.

I would not use a lock washer, as these are prone to vibrating loose.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Dwight: "Clay check your oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan."

Do not skip this step! I did and found out inadequate oil pan to pick up clearance costs about $1000 per 1/8" :)

I used Gordon's pan. One of the plug bungs was not very flat and it took a while to get it not to leak. Nice pan for the money though.
how far off the bottom of the pan was your pick up? were you too close or too far away from the bottom?
 

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It was a little too close. So at low revs, it ran fine. When I did the tuning runs to redline, the pickup sucked itself to the pan, starving the motor of oil and depositing 5 of 8 rod bearings into the pan. I drove home with the pistons pinging off the heads and pan baffles.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
When I called Ford Tech Support about moving the main cap stud, the technician recommended a drop or two of red loc-tite on the nut & torque to 30 foot-pounds. However, I know of at least one engine builder who skips the loc-tite.

I would not use a lock washer, as these are prone to vibrating loose.


John
i read that the main bearing cap studs should be at 70-80 ft lbs. the side studs (if you have them) are 30 ft lbs. I checked my set up w/ a torque wrench tonight and the installed studs click and don't move when torqued to 70 ft lbs.
 

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Yes; the stud itself is 70-80 ft-lbs. The nut that secures the pickup to the stud is 30 ft-lbs. Sorry if I caused any confusion.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I'll past on some info that I learned several years ago.

Clay check your oil pick up to the bottom of the oil pan. It should be 1/4" to 3/8" range. I like 1/4", close enough to get nearly all the oil but not any heavy trash.

I put Play Doh in a zip lock bag or plastic wrap to keep the Play Doh from sticking to the oil pick up. A ball about the size of a golf ball works great. Flatten it till it's about 3/4" and the size of the pick up screen.
Place the bag on the bottom of the pick up and install the oil pan. Tighten the oil pan bolts.
Remove the pan and check the thickest of the Play Doh. Carefully cutting though the center of the Doh with a razer knife.
Measure the thickest to see if falls within the range.

Also check to see if the screen is parallel to the pan. Look at the Doh to see if one side is thicker than the other.

Adjust the oil pick up tube by bending. Sometime you need to heat it with a torch to get it to bend enough to meet your needs.
Be careful not to crush the tube. Slow and easy. Don't get in a hurry.
Clayed my oil pick up tonight. around 1/2" to the bottom and pretty uniform all the way around. How important is it to drop it another 1/8"? I'm just worried about kinking the tube or trying to get it uniform and flat to the bottom.
 

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As Jeff says' 1/2" is ok. You going to run it as a track car, 6000+rpm's for long periods at a time, then maybe, but then you should have a pan with trap doors and a windage tray too.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
1/2" wouldn't scare me but I wouldn't want to see any more than that. I'd think that kinking the tube is pretty unlikely if you're only bending it ~1/8".

Jeff
I was more worried about getting it bent uniformly so that it was parallel with the bottom of the pan. Not planning on tracking this, so should be OK.
 

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Here is what i have in my little 289 Hi-Po.

John O
356260
 

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Here is what i have in my little 289 Hi-Po.

John O
I have the same pan, and it is listed at 8.25 inches in depth. It sits at about .25 below the frame rails.

The biggest problem with any oil pan clearance to the ground is not the pan., It is the drain plug, which is not usually included in the dimensions from any pan manufacturer. I used an allen headed 3/8 pipe plug that now sits level with the bottom of the pan to eliminate the plug from being an issue.
 
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