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Discussion Starter #1
Kleiner just recently pointed out to me that an oil pan >7in in depth will sit below the frame rails. Stock 289 pan is just around 8" deep. I've been looking at some options online and can't seem to find one <7in, or at least not reported. looks like race pans are even deeper, some ~10in.
What have others done to address this? shims between motor mounts and frame?
thanks in advance.
 

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You need to be looking at road race pans; they're shallower and have kickouts to the sides to make up the capacity lost by the shorter depth. Look at offerings from Champ, Kevco, Canton, etc. as well as forum supporters Gordon Levy and Richard Oben (North Racecars). Depending on how serious you want to get some have windage trays, baffles and trap doors.

Jeff
 

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I'm not going to attempt to suggest something. However I will say. They are surprisingly expensive. I ended up with a very specific one designed around the lower end support system I was using but the commercial ones were just as expensive.

If your spending that much already you might as well add some of the features to up grade with later even of you never do. Basically what Jeff mentioned in a post.

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Baffles

Rear or side sumps. Depending on what your going to do with it. Rear I thought was more universal for use 0 to 60 between traffic light racers.

Windage trays can be useful now.

Ect.

I was amazed how saficticated these pans are. Pretty amazing.

I thought about the potential of upgrades the whole time in was building the engine just in case. As far as I can tell I probably will not but then stuff there to support more power and torque if I wanted to.
 

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I bought my pan from Levy Racing. Gordon provides a Champ oil pan (https://www.champpans.com/products/p/cp302lt-rr/), associated oil pickup, and dipstick/dipstick tube. The drain plugs and dipstick bungs are 1/2”-20. If you don’t have an oil temperature sensor, you’ll need to purchase a 1/2” NPT plug for the pan’s bung. You’ll also need an oil pan gasket; I chose the Fel-Pro OS 34508 R one-piece gasket based on lots of great reviews here and on the other forum. Note that you may have to move the oil pump support bracket from one main cap to another, which means trading places between the main cap stud and the appropriate main cap bolt.

PRO TIP #1: With the drain plugs in place, fill the pan with water & check for leaks (you’re gonna want that bung; otherwise you end up with a counter full of water!). On mine, the forward plug was fine, but the rear plug leaked at least a drop of water per minute. I switched out the crush washer for a fiber one, and the leak went away. My buddy Scott skipped this test, and he’s got an oil leak, which in light of my test, he thinks is probably at the drain plug.

PRO TIP #2: [EDIT: original text deleted, 'cuz it was bad information] New tip: With the dipstick in place, fill the pan with enough water to just reach the windage tray. Then add two quarts more. [This two quarts represents the oil that's in the upper engine at operating temperature. I chose 2 quarts based on this: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/. Check this level against your dipstick, and adjust accordingly.

More information on this pan's installation is here: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/637338-john-s-excellent-oil-pan-adventure.html


John
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I assume 7.5" is fine? That's what the kevko pans are listed as, even their kit cobra pan. I'll need to measure my oil pick up but assume I'll need to replace this as well? I got a moroso one piece gasket with steel core (93161). Should I be using RTV along the rails or just at the 4 corners where the rail meets the curved part?
 

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I assume 7.5" is fine? That's what the kevko pans are listed as, even their kit cobra pan. I'll need to measure my oil pick up but assume I'll need to replace this as well? I got a moroso one piece gasket with steel core (93161). Should I be using RTV along the rails or just at the 4 corners where the rail meets the curved part?
Yes just get a new pick up, RTV in the corners. I think my pan could've been 7.5". Mine is an older version of the road race pan, trap doors, windage tray, and crank scraper.
 

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I’m running an Aviaid front sump road race oil pan with windage tray and trap doors. It came with the pickup. Its 7.5” deep and sits just above the frame rails with the complete kit motor mounts.:thumbup:
 

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I have an original style front sump pan made by Aviaid. Tucks up between the rails nicely.
 

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I have the Moroso 20503, it is 8” and did NOT hang below the rails of my MKII. After that car was totaled I pulled the motor and installed it into my new MKIV. It still does NOT hang below the rails of my car. I am using Prothane motor mounts which some say raises the engine a little. I’m unsure as I didn’t compare them to the old mounts when I changed them.

So you may have more options depending upon how your setup works together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bought a used Kevko rear sump and pick up from another member.
 

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7.5" deep ends up flush with the bottom of the frame rails with Energy Engine Mounts - more or less depending on how much of a spacer you use at the transmission mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
7.5" deep ends up flush with the bottom of the frame rails with Energy Engine Mounts - more or less depending on how much of a spacer you use at the transmission mount.
Thanks Mark. Who knew that extra 0.5" would end up costing hundreds of dollars. Do you know when my offset steering bushings might be coming in?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, now that I've committed to a new pan, with a rear sump, how do I block off the stock oil dip stick hole in the front of the block? I've read options on other forums from tapping it to using a wooden dowel to RTV plug to welding it.
Any recs?
 

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I a glued a 1/4" bolt into the opening using The Right Stuff.


John
 

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Rack Bushing Delivery

Eugene - Rack bushings and shroud were delivered on 10/9. Maybe they slipped by you and you did not notice them packed in with the shroud?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Eugene - Rack bushings and shroud were delivered on 10/9. Maybe they slipped by you and you did not notice them packed in with the shroud?

Mark
Thanks Mark. Didn't realize they were together. Hadn't opened it yet because I wasn't quite ready for the shroud yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No kidding, they are NOT cheap!
 

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Here is an alternative to the Aviaid, and a little cheaper Armando's Oil Pans
The guy that makes them used to be a welder at Aviaid.
 
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