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Discussion Starter #1
One follow up to my last bump steer kit adjustment question: the steering arm was drilled to accomodate the non tapered bolt supplied with the original FFR kit. But the bolt of the FFR bump steer kit is tapered - see attached picture. Is it really safe to use this tapered bolt when the steering arm was drilled? I am probably not the first one to mount the bump steer kit on an finished car.

Thanks for any insight here.
 

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One follow up to my last bump steer kit adjustment question: the steering arm was drilled to accomodate the non tapered bolt supplied with the original FFR kit. But the bolt of the FFR bump steer kit is tapered - see attached picture. Is it really safe to use this tapered bolt when the steering arm was drilled? I am probably not the first one to mount the bump steer kit on an finished car.

Thanks for any insight here.
Out of the 30+ GTM kits we've had thru here, I've never seen that done before....drilling out the taper to use a regular bolt. All of the cars we've done have used a typical tapered tie rod end in the tapered hole of the steering knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, it looks straight, and not measureable with a caliper.

Is there still any taper left in the upright/steering arm?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Shane, thanks, I did not know that! Then it's maybe the early beta kit (#6) or the PO who started this build. I found here a website showing bolt through conversion kit with necessary drilling out the tapered hole, I guess that's what they did.

So I'll probably have to go with a bolt / non tapered version for my tie rod ends.

But on the bright side I could easily use a longer 5/8 bolt to lower the attachment point. My bolt is now 3 inch long, I could use high grade 4 inch 5/8 bolts to avoid having to raise the streering rack. On the down side the lever length of the bolt increases, so more stress on the bolt and the mounting tab. What do you think?




Out of the 30+ GTM kits we've had thru here, I've never seen that done before....drilling out the taper to use a regular bolt. All of the cars we've done have used a typical tapered tie rod end in the tapered hole of the steering knuckle.
 

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You may be putting a lot of single shear stress on that bolt. I would get the highest grade bolt you can. Grade 8, AN, or NAS would be my recommendation. Pegasus sells AN bolts...

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=AN10

There is a reason they are so expensive. I would spend the money on two very critical bolts. While you are at it, I would also use nothing but an AN all metal locking nut. Pegasus sells these also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Shane, Crash, thanks for your valuable input here!

Eugen
 

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Hi

I had alot of issues with the car when i first started to drive it, it was twichy on the road.
So I started to measure bumpstear in the front and rear, and it was alot, to much to adjust with the bump steer kit.
So after reading alot about suspension geometry i found that the inner tierod mount on the frame in the rear needed to move inwards on both sides, involves cutting and welding ( I think 15mm on each side), then I fine adjusted with the bumpsteer kit in the rear.
I made the rear first and took a test drive, Big difference!!, but then the front felt like melted butter.
So the same proccedure in the front, measure and rework things.
In the front I needed to extend/move out the inner tierod, I think 50mm on each side.
So I made new longer extentions on the steering rack.
Dont take my word on the measurements, It was back in 2014 I made this.
In the front I think I can measure the length between the inner tierods if you whant to have that information.

Conclusion, Now I have near to zero bumpster front/rear from Alot!, I can drive the car with one finger on the steering wheel without proplem.
I would not lengthen the bolt on the spindle. I think it is better to approatch this from the source insted of trying to compensate.


Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Thomas,
nice to hear from a fellow european builder! And yes, you are right, the front tie rod is too long (toe out compression and rebound). How exactly did you make the steering rack extensions?
Thanks & greetings from Austria..............Eugen

Hi

I had alot of issues with the car when i first started to drive it, it was twichy on the road.
So I started to measure bumpstear in the front and rear, and it was alot, to much to adjust with the bump steer kit.
So after reading alot about suspension geometry i found that the inner tierod mount on the frame in the rear needed to move inwards on both sides, involves cutting and welding ( I think 15mm on each side), then I fine adjusted with the bumpsteer kit in the rear.
I made the rear first and took a test drive, Big difference!!, but then the front felt like melted butter.
So the same proccedure in the front, measure and rework things.
In the front I needed to extend/move out the inner tierod, I think 50mm on each side.
So I made new longer extentions on the steering rack.
Dont take my word on the measurements, It was back in 2014 I made this.
In the front I think I can measure the length between the inner tierods if you whant to have that information.

Conclusion, Now I have near to zero bumpster front/rear from Alot!, I can drive the car with one finger on the steering wheel without proplem.
I would not lengthen the bolt on the spindle. I think it is better to approatch this from the source insted of trying to compensate.


Hope this helps.
 
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