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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Revised Build Options:
The arrival of this rust bucket of a body shell did actually give me some choices...

"Traditional" Build:
I could simply cut out the rear wheel arches and floors to use under the kit's framework.
The bottom line was this was the main reason for buying the shell and it would do this job.
However, with a whole shell to play with, I had nothing to lose looking at other options.

"Chopped Spitfire" Build:
Whilst someone was now attempting to build a car this way, they hadn't finished it.
So it may throw up as many problems as I thought it might solve.
Even though I knew it would take time to test this option, I was going to give it a go.

"Frankenstein" Build:
It occurred to me that another option would be to cut the Spitfire shell completely.
Then I would follow the traditional rear wheel arches with rear Cordite frame at the back.
But instead of using the Cordite front framework, use the Spitfire bulk head instead.
Obviously I wasn't going to try this approach until after I tried the option above.

Whatever build route I finally decided to take, there was still a lot of work required.
So with no time like the present, I unwrapped the body shell and started.



My angle grinder quickly became my new best friend as I got to work on the body shell.
There were things I knew I didn't need to be cut off, plus lots of rust that needed repairing.
Rather than my usual step by step photo diary, I will just give you the general idea of what went on.

First thing to go was the complete windscreen, which at least gave my neighbours a slightly better view.



Then slowly but surely I was building up a pile of discarded bits of car.



Unfortunately, when I started prodding with the "screwdriver of truth", it got worse.



The parts that remained were cleaned up, treated for rust and then painted as I went along.

For example, this was one of the inner wheel arches.





Eventually I had chopped enough off the Spitfire shell for me to test fit the fibreglass body.

But first I had to make the decision to remove the fibre glass "firewall" area.
Which ever build option I was going to end up with, the original design did not work.

So I made a basic cardboard template.



Which I used to mark up the Cordite bulkhead before attacking it with my jig saw.

Before:



After:



Then I cut the slots required for the pedal mounting sections & the battery box.



Whilst this might have looked a good fit from the front, this is what the back end looked like.



After yet another round of cutting, it ended up looking like this.



There were still a few things fouling, but I'd fix them another day.
At least the fit was in the right ball park for me to testing it on my rolling chassis...
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Back to the Future - Part 1:
It was time to bite the bullet & remove the frame to see if this Spitfire shell would work.
I wasn't really looking forward to this, as on the one hand it was a big step backwards.
But on the other hand, it was an opportunity to see if I could make my build easier in the long run.

So I removed the gas tank.



The rear framework.



The electrics required to start the engine.



The front framework.



By this stage, my "workshop" was in total chaos.





Then I had to rope my wife in to move the shell as I can't really lift it by myself.
After a bit of huffing & puffing, the shell was finally resting in place.



Then it was time to throw the Cordite body shell on and see where I was.



It looked like I would need to cut some more metal off the rear arches.
( I find it is usually easier to cut more off, than add a bit back! )

But before I could start getting the angle grinder out I needed a major tidy up.
Because for a dreadful moment, it clouded over & looked like it might rain.
I've learnt the hard way not to push my luck weather wise, so called it a day.

I just needed to move all the framework & other stuff into a neat pile.



Which looked a lot neater covered up.



Eventually everything was packed away and order was resorted to my drive once more.
( At this point the whole project looks much more like a car when covered! ;) )



But obviously I had to uncover everything again for the next stage...
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Back to the Future - Part 2:
After taking the fibre glass body off again, out came the angle grinder.
Some more trimming later and the rear section of the shell looked like this.



Note:
The pair of upright brackets on both wheel arches were given another trim after this photo was taken.

The good news is that there is nothing to stop the rear section getting nice & low now.



The bad news is that, as expected, the Spitfire bulkhead is too high by comparison.
The bottom line of the Cordite body work is now pointing upwards from back to front.



Sorry there isn't enough space on my drive to allow me to take a decent "side on" photo.

Although it is easier to see when you look at the bottom of the door cut out.
This should be running parallel to the body shell.



If I raise the back to make this level, the car would look like a 4x4 at the back! :sad:
At this point I must confess to feeling really fed up with the whole project.
I was convinced I was missing "something", but couldn't quite put my finger on it...

Bulkhead Problems Breakthrough:
Then one day when it was pouring rain outside, I was really scratching my head over this.
"Why is the Spitfire bulk head so high compared to the rest of the Cordite body work?"

After going back through old Spyder build threads I finally worked out what was going on.
These Triumph Herald based kits retain a cut down bulkhead as part of the build.

Before:



After:



The reason the bulk head "chop" works for these Spyders is the gap above the master cylinders.
There is plenty of excess metal available on the Herald, that is simply not there on the Spitfire.

In the photo below, you will see the Spitfire bulkhead barely clears the top of the master cylinders.



Note: This is still one of my favourite photos from the build.
In those happy days, a long time ago, before I'd actually tried to fit the kit!

When the original Cordite prototype was being developed there was no Spitfire body, just a rolling chassis.
So a "spare" Herald bulkhead was used as the basis of the bulk head within the Cordite body shell.



It is not easy for me to describe in words, so I hope the following makes sense.
In the photo above, the bottom horizontal line of the fibre glass bulkhead sits on the Spitfire chassis.
The top of the chassis is on the same horizontal level as the "lip" where the flip up hood fits.

Hopefully, so far, so good...

Now look again at this photo where I was test fitting the Cordite body & the Spitfire shell.



Here, the grey blocks are where the Spitfire chassis would sit.
But if you extended a horizontal line from there, the bottom lip for the hood is inches higher.
However, I can't drop the top of bodywork any lower or the master cylinders wont fit.

This also explains another problem I'd previously encountered while mocking up parts.
When I tried to fit the Spitfire pedals to the Cordite front framework they hit the floor.
Which makes sense when you realise the bulkhead was taken from a different car!



So there you have it, the whole bulkhead is a pigs ear from start to finish. :banghead:

The only good news is that I am not going mad, I really can't line all the pieces up.

The bad news is I now need to form a cunning plan to fix this mess...
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
A Cunning Plan:
It had taken me a lot of time & effort to discover the "Chopped Spitfire" build wouldn't work for me.
Thankfully, in terms of money, it had only cost me a collection of cutting discs for my angle grinder.
But as I said all along, the whole shell was still a bargain even if I only used the rear wheel arches.

Now that I understood just what was going wrong with the front bulkhead I had two choices:
- Modify the front frame work that came with the kit.
- Modify the Spitfire bulkhead.

There were pros & cons with both options and all roads lead to more work.
But I decided that the modified Spitfire option would give me a better result.
So it looked like I was heading to my own "Frankenstein" build after all.
( i.e. Use the rear Cordite framework + Spitfire rear wheel arches & bulkhead. )

Before I cut the Spitfire shell in two, I just wanted to test fit the rear frame on top.
So off came the fibre glass body (again) and out came the angle grinder (again).
Then I could remove what was left of the Spitfire bodywork in front of both arches.

Before:



After:



This allowed me to rest the rear frame work over the top.



If I can make it work, I will keep the hand brake section attached to the floor / rear wheel arch section.
I think this would make for a more rigid structure than the separate hand brake panel that I already have.
However, I would need to change the cross bracing on the frame to join where the small section of tape.



Hopefully this will allow the section you can see painted in black to sit over the frame work.
This will involve "threading" the rear section of Spitfire through the framework.
As the frame will be above the body at the back, but below the body at the front (if that makes sense).

Then it was the moment of truth, time to cut the Spitfire shell into two sections

So I propped up both sides of the front bulk head.



As the last thing I wanted to do was cut through the chassis by mistake!

A couple of cutting discs later and I had a cut from one side to the other.



I needed my wife's help to remove the rear section & relocate it to my "parts" pile.



Given my lack of space, I had to put the rear frame back on the chassis so I could "tidy up".
This gives the general idea of how the "Frankenstein" build will look.
( Although, obviously the bulkhead is still too tall at this stage. )



Again, just to tidy up, I put the Cordite bodywork back on top for now.



This actually gave me an early indication of the "adjustment" required to the bulk head.
Because you can now see the gap between the door cut out in the frame & body work.



Whereas previously the body work sat tight to the frame like this.



Note:
The elephant in the room in the photo above is the state of the kit doors.
Forgive me for not wanting to start ranting & raving about them again.
There have been lots of problems with this kit, but the doors are in a different league. :sad:

Still, the good news was that I had a basic plan and I could start moving forward again...
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Preparing Spitfire Rear Arches & Floors:
I had been cleaning, treating and painting the top side of this section as I was going along.
But now I had cut it off from the rest of the body shell it was time to deal with the underside.

It wasn't pretty under there, but thankfully the main floor sections would be cut off later on.



However, even though I only needed to clean some of it, it still took me hours.





I then applied a liberal coating of anti-rust treatment everywhere.
( This treatment dries to a dark blue / black colour. )





Before:



After:







This was just the first coat, but it was still nice to see it heading in the right direction.

When I'd finished painting the underside, I needed to move the whole thing into my rear garden.
But first I wanted to "lighten it" a bit so I didn't need to ask my wife to help me lift it.

After a sustained assault with a number of cutting discs, I went from this.



To this.



Which meant I could carry it thru the house by myself.
So the garden picked up another strange ornament...

 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Modifying Rear Frame Work - Part 1:
In order to use the Spitfire wheel arches, I needed to modify the rear frame work.
The task looked simple enough on paper.



The reality is that the two sides of the frame are not exactly the same size. :rolleyes:
So after a bit of measuring and marking I was able to cut the new sections out of box steel.



I had to get my wife's help to move the frame thru the house to the rear garden.
( There is no direct outside access from the front to the back. )
The garden was going to become by workshop for this job.



Then it was the moment of truth, my first "real" welding job...

This was the cross brace on the passenger side that I was replacing.
( To allow the hand brake panel from the rear arches to sit better on the frame. )



I simply removed it with my angle grinder.



Then it was time to clamp the piece I had prepared earlier into place.
( After cleaning up all the edges that were going to be welded. )



And this is the finished job after I have given the welds a bit of a clean up...



I did the "hit it with a big hammer" test and it is going nowhere.

Next up was the driver's side, before...



During...



After...



That was the first round of frame modifications, more to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Rear Seat Belt Mounting Brackets - Part 1:
I am going to use a 3 point harness in the car and needed to make my own brackets.
If I was confident in my welding, this would be a very straight forward job.
But I am a welding beginner and so I wanted to build in a significant error tolerance.
In my simple view, the bigger the contact area that I welded the better.

So I wanted to use a part of the Cordite frame that would allow me to run a long line of weld along it.
This lead me to the idea of building a 90 degree bracket at this point.



This would leave me with the seat belt bolt retaining plate around here.



Please Note:
I now know this is far too low to be safe and the final position is much higher.
( Which is one of the great things about posting your build diary on line. )
But for now, I carried on in blissful ignorance...

I set up a workshop picnic area to start cutting the box section to length.



This is what I ended up with, although the edges will be angled to match the frame when welded in...



I'd picked up a bargain ion Ebay that I thought might come in useful during my build.
It is affectionately known in our house as the "Circus Tent".



Unfortunately my wife will not allow me to leave this up permanently as it is too big.
But it was was just too windy to weld outside, so I set up the tent and moved my welding stuff inside.
Mind you, with the wind hitting the sides, I did fear the whole thing might take off on me.



I built the brackets up in stages, making sure all the parts fitted as I went along.



Then I could clamp the final pieces together to continue welding.



Eventually I had both of my some what over-engineered brackets completed.



Due to rain earlier in the day, the washing line was available as an alfresco spray booth.



Everything looked a lot better with a coat of "weldable" etch primer on it.



I also made some cardboard templates matching the shapes of these brackets.



These will be used to mark the angles required where the brackets join the framework.
But there were a few other things to deal with before I could fit these brackets...
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Renovating The Gas Tank:
The original Spitfire gas tank is re-used in the Cordite frame.
However, unlike the Spitfire, it takes a bit on manoeuvring to get into position.
This had a knock on impact on my seat belt brackets (see separate post).
The problem was the tank couldn't be fitted with extra brackets on the frame.



This meant I had to fit the gas tank before I sorted out my seat belt brackets.
( It also meant that removing the tank in the future would be a major pain. )

The whole car is a bit rough and ready, so I didn't need a show car finish.
Just some basic preparation to ensure the brushed on paint would stick.
( I'd left the empty tank in the sun every chance I had to remove any vapours. )

Before.



During a very basic sanding down stage.



Applying anti-rust treatment.



This dries to a dark blue / black finish depending on the metal below.



Then I started painting the bottom of the tank.



Using a not so high tech prop to keep it at the correct angle.



Then the top of the tank was painted.



I also put a final coat of paint on the frame work where the tank was to be fitted.



After a second coat of paint on the tank, I bolted it into its final resting place.



I used extra washers on the driver's side to stop the gas tank fouling the frame.
( As obviously the frame work supporting the petrol tank isn't square. :rolleyes: )
I even remembered to stick a bit of protective foam into the narrow gap between the two.



With the gas tank in place other work on the frame could continue...
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Side Seat Belt Mounting Brackets - Part 1:
I also needed to make seat belt mounting brackets for the outside of the cockpit.
( The inside of the cockpit will re-use the original Spitfire seat belt mounts. )
Again, it was to be over-engineered and started by clamping box section together...



Then there were welded together.



I wanted to build these up in a particular order to ensure they fitted in place.

So the retaining plate itself went in next.



Then it was time to set up another workshop picnic area around the frame.



Then I clamped the first part of the bracket to the frame.



This is the rear view where the bracket crosses the original frame.



Which is why I had cut out a notch to let it sit better / get welded in.



Once that the first welds were done, the clamps could go.



And the top section could be added and welded into place.



Then I cut the final bit of box section to fit and clamped it in place.



Once that was welded in, I could move all my stuff over to the driver's side.
Then I just had to go through the whole process again for the second bracket. :rolleyes:

Eventually I was left with my two over-engineered brackets in place.



However, these were only welded "sunny side up" so more work was required...
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Side Seat Belt Mounting Brackets - Part 2:
In order to finish the welding of these brackets I had to turn the frame over into different positions.
Starting with the frame "upside down", which allowed me to weld the right way up...



I also worked away with the frame on it side like this (obviously I did both sides)...



The welder started cutting out, so I had to add a bit of external air cooling from a fan to help...



But eventually it was all welded up & I could give the bare metal a coat of primer.

The driver's side bracket (Note: Frame is still "upside down" at this point.):



Passenger side:



When this was all dry I was able to give them a first coat of black paint.
I temporarily fitted the eye bolts & masked them off to keep paint out of the threads.



With a second coat of paint these brackets are now done.





I know these brackets are OTT & my welding could be neater / better.
However, the overall effect is something very solid, that will do the job & not fail under load.

This gives you the general idea of how they will work in practise.

 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Rear Seat Belt Mounting Brackets - Part 2:
As mentioned in a previous post I now knew the location for the brackets needed to be higher.
However, given how long it had taken me to make them, I didn't want to start again from scratch.

After lots of trial and error, I eventually found a spot that would work.
This had another horizontal frame rail that would provide my main point of contact.
It also had the advantage of placing the whole bracket behind the main cockpit wall area.



This recess gave the eye bolt & seat belt attachments just enough room to clear.



The racing harness sits nicely on the seat.



The belt sits nicely on my shoulder & there is room behind too.





Another problem I can come across while test fitting everything involved the gas tank.
There was no way of fitting the gas tank when the seat belt brackets were in place.

So I decided to bolt the tank in and then weld the brackets in place.
I made sure the gas tank was covered to protect it from any stray welding / grinding sparks.
( By now it had been empty for a long time and well ventilated too. )

I also cut the bracket & I will reuse the box section on the right as extra support.



I then cleaned up all the areas of the frame I was planning to weld to.



Then I could get on with clamping the bracket to the frame & starting to weld.



As before, this involved rotating the frame through 360 degrees to get at each edge.



Eventually the passenger side bracket was done, with the off cut box section now in place.



And this is the view from the rear & you will see I have capped the top of the box section as well.



Then it was "simply" a case of doing the whole thing again for the drivers side.

Eventually, after a bit of painting, the two brackets looked like this.



Again, I know this is a seriously OTT solution, but they will do the job for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Test Fitting Steel Floor Pans - Part 1:
Once again I needed to make a pair of cardboard templates for the floors.



I then used the "hole" cut from the template to work out where they would fit.
I started on the driver's side, where I wanted the hole as far forward/inside as possible.



But when I went to check the distance to the rear frame work, I came up short.
( With the hole in this position, the back of the floor would be in mid air. )



The edges of the steel floors are not as deep as the original fibre glass ones.



After several attempts at repositioning the "hole" it was clear I had a problem.
If the floor edges reached the frame, then the seat would never work.

At this point, I think I had a real break through in my approach.
A fellow builder often suggested I "Just do it" and so I made my choice.
I know where I need the seat, so I will add an extra bracket to the frame work.
This will support the rear of the floor & I will fibre glass over the gap.
That was it, no more indecision, make a choice and move on. :cool:

Unfortunately, my optimism was sorely tested when I switched to the passenger side.
As I test fitted the cardboard template, it was clear the frame work was not square.
The straight edge on the floor vs. the angle in the frame gave a 4 cm difference.

This is the front frame rail on the driver's side (Spitfire bulk head still in place).



And this is the passenger side and the gap to the bulk head is clear.



Again, decision made, cut this floor to fit the frame as it is & make the seat work.

The final work on the templates had to wait until I had modified the rear frame.
( See separate post covering the changes made. )

Eventually I could mark up the steel floors and cut out the shape required.



I also needed to cut a length of box section to fit and weld to the frame work.



This will the support to the floor and it also passed my "hit it with a hammer" test.

And then the driver's floor simply slotted into place.



There was time for a quick test with with a seat.



That seemed OK and there is a nice gap between the seat back & the frame.



Then it was time to switch my attention to the passenger side...
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Test Fitting Steel Floor Pans - Part 2:
The cardboard template was trimmed to fit around the new frame layout.



Quickly followed by trimming the steel floor to match.



Given the problems with the frame work, I could only get the seat back to fit like this...



By having the front of the seat hanging over the lip in the floor like this...



There were just a couple of jobs left to do on the floors.

I had cut off a few sections of metal from the floors.
So I decided to add some of these "cut offs" back to the driver's side floor.
I'd already welded in an extra bit of box section to the frame support the floor.
So these extension pieces would make the bonding / fibre glassing of the floor/body easier.

After a bit of cutting and welding, I had this...



I then trimmed the inside edges of the floor to match the curve of the frame / chassis.



I also needed to weld up a few pins holes in the floors where the original welds were tidied up.

Then I could I give both floors a coat of etch primer.
My eldest daughter offered to help, so she was roped into sanding one floor while I did the other...



She then sprayed the primer on, until it started running out & I had to squeeze the last bit out of the can...



There will be some final adjustments to the floors when all the other parts are in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Modifying Spitfire Rear Arches & Floors - Part 1:
I needed to test fit the rear arches section with the Cordite's rear frame to form a plan.
It has to be threaded thru the frame work so the hand brake panel sit above the frame.



This section needed some minor trimming to slip underneath the gas tank.
Then some major surgery was required at the front to wrap around the framework.





I cut the openings deeper than was necessary just to be on the safe side.



With all the cuts made, it was time to box them back up, so I made some cardboard templates.



I then marked up some sections of old Spitfire wheel arch left in my "scrap" pile.



Which, together with some small sections of new metal, provided me with my first repair panels.



My metal working tools are somewhat limited to say the least, but I could still hammer the metal flat.



Then I cleaned up all the edges in preparation for welding.



( It was only after I had taken this photo that I remembered I needed to weld at an angle across the main sections. )

Those with a sensitive disposition to the horrors of amateur welding should look away now. ;)





I know they are ugly looking, but they are very solid and I am very happy with the result.
Especially as I have never attempted anything like this before and I'll get better with practice.
( Thin metal is definitely harder to weld than the box section I'd been using before. )

To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Modifying Spitfire Rear Arches & Floors - Part 2:
Obviously I didn't have to wait too long for some more practise as I needed to box the outer ends.



Note:
When I was cleaning this section up, it was easier to remove more of the rusted/damaged metal from from the bottom edge.

Then it was back to cardboard templates, cutting matching shapes in metal and tidying them up so I could weld them in place.
Note:
My camera was playing up, so I am not using a "soft focus" to hide my welding, honest.



The other end section was more of a mess to start with & needed some additional welding before I started boxing in.

It is also worth mentioning that I was treating the insides & protecting them before boxing them in.



The boxing in template for this turned out to be the most complicated one I'd done so far.



With so many bits to weld together & the various other repairs I had to make, the final result was a bit of a mess.





But it is stronger than it might look and none of this work will be seen when the car is on the road.

Even though it would not be seen, I still needed to tidy things up a bit to finish the job.
So I applied some body filler over all the joins and gave that a roughly sanded finish.





After cleaning up the mess the filler dust made and applying some etch primer, I could put some black paint on top.
This was never going to be a factory finish, but it did make the whole thing a lot nicer to look at.





Note: I didn't give the trunk floor an extra coat of paint at this time as I needed to do some repair work first.

So here is what the driver's side ended up looking like.



And this was the passenger side.



As I said before, given I've never done this sort of thing before, I'm pretty happy with the result.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Trunk Floor Repair:
The twin silencers/mufflers on my donor car were mounted to the boot/trunk floor here.



Unfortunately my alternative (& rusty) body shell had a big hole where one mount would go.



So it was time to make a repair panel and get it welded into position.
As I am still learning the dark art of welding, I wanted to be safe & not sorry.
In order to achieve this, I wanted to over lap the hole from above.
Which I hoped would support the weight of the muffler hanging down.

I made a cardboard template and found a suitable section of old Spitfire bodywork.



This piece was ideal as it already has an edge that I can use.



It didn't take long with an angle grinder to cut out the repair piece & remove all the old paint.
I also drilled some holes in the trunk floor & cleaned up the metal around the area to be repaired.



After a small bit of trimming and bending, the repair piece was good to go.



I then turned the rear arches upside down & clamped it in place.



After welding all the holes it looked like this...
( Excuse the poor photo, my camera was playing up. )



Then I turned the whole rear arches section over so I could weld the repair piece's edges to the trunk floor.
I managed to burn a few small holes through the floor while welding, but eventually the floor looked like this.



After applying an anti-rust treatment and some paint, the floor looked like this.
( The repair was never going to be seamless, but at least the paint improves the look of it. )



Note:
The gaping rust holes around the base of the wheel arches will be repaired when this section is finally fitted.
The body will be fibre glassed to both the frame work and this rear wheel arches section.
So I intend to simply extent the fibre glass across the gaps.

Next step was to apply a layer of body filler to the underside of the repair to seal the edges.
I didn't want to risk blowing more holes by welding the edge of the trunk floor to the repair piece.
( Which is why I welded through the drilled holes, away from the edges, in the first place. )

Once the filler was set and tidied up I painted the underside too and it now looks like this.



These rear wheel arches are now ready to be fitted to the rolling chassis along with the rear frame work.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Rear Suspension Lowering Block:
The new Cordite fibre glass body will be significantly lighter than the old Spitfire steel one.
The traditional method for dealing with this is to lower the rear suspension.
Which also has the added bonus of improving the overall stance of the car too.

This is the standard Triumph set up...



I had plenty of room to play with inside the car, as the frame work was still in the back garden.
Although I actually had to do some gardening at the front of the house before I could start.

Before:



After:



With the chassis jacked up and supported on axle stands I could remove the wheels.



The car jack was also used to support the hubs so I could remove the bolts holding them in place.



With the hubs hanging free I just needed to remove the nuts and studs from the differential.
Thankfully this was very straightforward and before I knew it, the rear spring was out.



I put the new longer studs in by hand just to help locate the lowering block.
( After giving the top of the differential a quick lick of paint. )



These worked as a good guide and the block went in with no problems.



Unfortunately, the same could not be said for the rear spring which would not play ball.
The rear spring comes with a removable locating pin that fits into a matching hole in the differential.



Unfortunately, the hole in the lowering block was not big enough to accommodate it.



But after a bit of work with an assortment of metal files, the pin finally fitted the hole.



I then put some Loctite on the locating pin's threads before returning it to the rear spring.
( I also put Loctite on the studs and tightened them up too. )
Then it was simply a case of putting the rear spring back on & tightening up with new nyloc nuts.



I really thought getting the hub supporting bolts back in place would be a tricky job.
But it was too easy for words and I could even push one bolt in by hand!
( As everything lined up without the need to support it separately. )
Then it was back on with the wheels and lower the car back to the ground.
Although it will be a while before I can see how it will sit at "racing weight".

That's All Folks!
As I said at the start of posting this batch of updates, this bring my build up to date.
If you have managed to get this far reading it, I hope you have enjoyed it.

Cheers, Paul.
 

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From a fellow Brit, all I can say Paul, is "You sir, are insane!"

words fail me - I'd have had a big bonfire and strong words with the original company owner long before now.

totally amazing, both your ingenuity, and patience.
 

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Cool build mate!
If you can persevere through this project, an FFR kit will be a snap for you!

You have great PATIENCE! Can't wait to see your finished project, will look great and be a lot of fun to drive.
Just curious, an estimate of weight when completed? (be sure to factor in all of the over-engineering welding you're doing! :001_tongue:)
 

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Totally cool car...........incredible build your doing. Simply smashing! Keep the thread updated. I'd own one of those.
 
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