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Discussion Starter #1
Putting my 289 SBF back together. Any recs on where I need RTV/gasket vs gasket alone (timing cover, water pump,
intake, etc.) ?
I have a Felpro gasket kit and bought an additional one piece oil pan gasket to replace the multi piece cork ones in the kit.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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RTV use

Any place the curve meets the flat for the pan gasket - in the corners where the flat of the block meets the rubber seal groove(s)
Put a small amount in the rubber seal "groove" of the timing cover and rear main.

Get rid of any cork gaskets on your intake.

Put a bead of RTV across the front and back "Dam" wall with an extra amount in the junction of the intake/Dam wall/head(s) (corners) at both ends.
Put a small "smear" around your water ports on the intake - don't forget to "seal" your head bolts as half of them go into water jackets . . .

There is a [well] proven method for installing a SBF intake, quite a few videos on Youtube showing the "proper" way to do it so it's a once-n-done, operation. Follow the torgue sequence exactly and go over it at least 4/5 times. Use corner studs to get it lined up when placing it in position. Replace them when its time to torque that position.

Water pumps and timing covers need RTV everywhere.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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Not a waxer
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I'm mostly with Doc as usual. Front cover and water pump get just a smear, not a full bead. With the one piece pan gasket just a small blob in the corners. As for the intake I STRONGLY recommend that you use a steel core set such as Victor Reintz Nitro Seal or Fel-Pro number 1250S3. Stay away from the non laminated "Print-O-Seal" Fel-Pro. As Doc said ditch the end gaskets and instead use a healthy bead of RTV (I like Great Stuff) on the front and back china walls. Since your engine is on a stand you'll be able to verify that you have full contact as you set the intake into place. Again, you can add a smear or light bead around the water ports. Again, agreeing with Doc, run the intake torque pattern several times; I usually go around 8-10 times with at least one or 2 of those being the next day after the gasket has relaxed. As far as head bolts, yes the lowers go into coolant and must have sealant. I use a PTFE paste from ARP, #100-9904. Although the uppers are dry holes I add the same sealant to them so that when being torqued the coefficient of friction is the same on all bolts whether wet or dry.

Good luck!

Jeff
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I have never liked the feel of the intake bolts. So last time I had the intake off I installed ARP studs.
https://arpcatalog.com/84/
Tightening a high quality nut on to a high quality stud is much better at getting a good torque compared to bolts into heads. I second the multiple re-checks. I did mine twice before firing it up and then did it 5-6 more times once it cooled after every heat cycle. Yep, it took that many before a few nuts stopped moving a bit when torqued.
RTV? I prefer Ultra Grey because it is a slightly thicker consistency than blue and black. I tried the 'Right Stuff' once and it worked great sealing up a water pump. But several months later nothing would come out of the can. So it was about a $15 water pump seal. I won't buy any more.
Test your intake fit dry. You may be surprised how little gap there is between the intake and the front and rear block walls. Now you have a better idea how much sealer it will take to seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've watched some YouTube videos where RTV was also placed around the water ports above and below the gasket on either end if the heads. Anyone recommend this or disagree?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm mostly with Doc as usual. Front cover and water pump get just a smear, not a full bead. With the one piece pan gasket just a small blob in the corners. As for the intake I STRONGLY recommend that you use a steel core set such as Victor Reintz Nitro Seal or Fel-Pro number 1250S3. Stay away from the non laminated "Print-O-Seal" Fel-Pro. As Doc said ditch the end gaskets and instead use a healthy bead of RTV (I like Great Stuff) on the front and back china walls. Since your engine is on a stand you'll be able to verify that you have full contact as you set the intake into place. Again, you can add a smear or light bead around the water ports. Again, agreeing with Doc, run the intake torque pattern several times; I usually go around 8-10 times with at least one or 2 of those being the next day after the gasket has relaxed. As far as head bolts, yes the lowers go into coolant and must have sealant. I use a PTFE paste from ARP, #100-9904. Although the uppers are dry holes I add the same sealant to them so that when being torqued the coefficient of friction is the same on all bolts whether wet or dry.

Good luck!

Jeff
Thanks, and I did use ARP thread sealant on both upper and lower head bolts. Any of the front bolts (timing cover, water pump) needing sealant as well? Thought I saw a video talking about some of these coming in contact with coolant.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Yes to RTV around the water ports in the intake gaskets. A thin smear on both sides.
 

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A bargain

Craig - I concur on the intake bolts vs studs and have been meaning to re-torque mine but never seem to get around to it.
On The Right Stuff - it is the only thing to ever really seal my SBF water pumps so at $15+ it is a bargain vs living with a drip or removal and replacement. It also comes in a shorty caulking cartridge which may be more uncloggable than the cheese whiz pressurized can.
Also, with The Right Stuff, you don't need the oversize blue paper gaskets which look so bad on a new engine assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have never liked the feel of the intake bolts. So last time I had the intake off I installed ARP studs.
https://arpcatalog.com/84/
Tightening a high quality nut on to a high quality stud is much better at getting a good torque compared to bolts into heads. I second the multiple re-checks. I did mine twice before firing it up and then did it 5-6 more times once it cooled after every heat cycle. Yep, it took that many before a few nuts stopped moving a bit when torqued.
RTV? I prefer Ultra Grey because it is a slightly thicker consistency than blue and black. I tried the 'Right Stuff' once and it worked great sealing up a water pump. But several months later nothing would come out of the can. So it was about a $15 water pump seal. I won't buy any more.
Test your intake fit dry. You may be surprised how little gap there is between the intake and the front and rear block walls. Now you have a better idea how much sealer it will take to seal.
thanks for the recs. bought a set of APR studs for my intake.
do you recommend using any thread sealer on the studs going in to the block? I've seen contradictory opinions.
and do I really need to torque the studs down, or just get them tight enough, since the nuts are doing all the work from above?
 

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I've watched some YouTube videos where RTV was also placed around the water ports above and below the gasket on either end if the heads. Anyone recommend this or disagree?
Head gaskets should go on dry, adding anything changes the thickness and could cause issues.

thanks for the recs. bought a set of APR studs for my intake.
do you recommend using any thread sealer on the studs going in to the block? I've seen contradictory opinions.
and do I really need to torque the studs down, or just get them tight enough, since the nuts are doing all the work from above?
The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.[/QUOTE]

To be clear, I'm talking about intake manifold bolts and studs, not head studs. Still no sealant on intake studs?
 

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The studs are going into the heads, dry holes, no thread sealant should be used. I use double nuts on studs, just get them tight, no need to torque them. Remember, should the heads have to come off for repairs, the studs need to come out.
To be clear, I'm talking about intake manifold bolts and studs, not head studs. Still no sealant on intake studs?[/QUOTE]

Yes, that is what I said, into the heads. Studs to hold the heads, go into the block, they would need sealant on the lower studs.
 
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