Factory Five Racing Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got the Ron Francis wiring harness and the coyote ECU controls and harness. I hooked up the alternator plug from the coyote harness to the alternator - straight forward. Now I have the wires from the RF wiring harness as pictured. Which of these goes to the single post on the alternator? What do I do with the rest of the wires or do all of them go to the alternator post?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,904 Posts
Strip back the convolute tubing and tape, and you'll find the three red wires are spliced together. Remove that. Put a ring terminal on the remaining large red wire and that goes to the alternator post. The brown wire isn't used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Strip back the convolute tubing and tape, and you'll find the three red wires are spliced together. Remove that. Put a ring terminal on the remaining large red wire and that goes to the alternator post. The brown wire isn't used.
Thanks for the tip. I did as you said and continue on my wiring way. I have only a few battery supply/ground connections to finish up and than the engine controls portion will be done. Still have to finish the gage and dash wiring.

I have a bit of a silly question...I followed your tip and the instructions in the other coyote controls / Ron Francis Harness / Factory Five wiring Instruction manuals......With the wires connected to the alternator post as you described, the wire goes back into the harness to places unknown. How does the charging output of the alternator get back to the battery??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,904 Posts
I have a bit of a silly question...I followed your tip and the instructions in the other coyote controls / Ron Francis Harness / Factory Five wiring Instruction manuals......With the wires connected to the alternator post as you described, the wire goes back into the harness to places unknown. How does the charging output of the alternator get back to the battery??
The alternator wire connects with the main power feed from the battery. You can trace it in the harness, and also see it in the RF schematic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Do builders bypass the RF alternator wire and use a bigger gauge (4) wire back to the battery? Maybe even use a ~150 amp fuse for safety if the alternator goes haywire?
I guess the short question is... do most all use the 8-10 gauge wire in the RF whip?

Thanks, Graham
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
Glad I looked in here. I was recently planning on upgrading my battery wiring, going with heavier gauge wires, a Joes Racing 4-post Master battery cutoff switch, and 150a waterproof 285 Series Klixon circuit breaker to be on the safe side. As with everything else, it occured to me I might be over thinking this but would love to hear what others recommend.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,904 Posts
I prefer heavier battery cables than the kit provided material. I've used 4 gauge on my last two builds. While not cheap, I've used the 4 gauge battery cable from West Marine. It's marine grade (obviously) so has a suitable insulation material. Plus it's made up of very fine wires, so is nice and flexible. Sold by the foot, so you can get exactly how much you need. I use Fusion brand battery terminals. They're pre-loaded with solder and flux. Heat the terminal with a torch and push in the stripped end of the cable. I used heavy duty crimped lugs for the other end. The double or triple wall heat shrink over. All available from DelCity.net, an excellent supplier for this kind of stuff. For the alternator feed, I've had no issue with the 8 gauge kit provided cables. Used on all my builds. Larger gauge probably doesn't hurt anything, but IMO and experience not needed. Our builds typically don't have nearly the draw as DD's. I do use a megafuse on the alternator cable. Try to match the size to the rating of the alternator. 100 amp, 120 amp, whatever. Hope that helps.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top