I didn't even bother. The bolt has GOT to look cheesy. I just whipped out the old checkbook and sent Don Wright a few bucks for his internal bracket. It's not in yet, but it looks GREAT. I know that doesn't answer your question, but it was an opportunity for me to plug Don's VERY cool mod.
Acutally, I feel really stupid. I have DOn's internal connect thingy. Only problem is I started drilling the drivers side bars from the trunk, got all 3 done last night, then as I'm leaving the garage I decide to pull out his kit to read the instructions.....Hmmm turns out I needed to do it before I drill,..Duh,..So now I will either get lucky that it will turn the exact amount and still line up below. I guess I could always drill again,,,,may weaken the mount on the frame though...... Really dumb move...Shouldn't work late I guess...=(
Hey, O2. Sorry I missed this post. If you still want to use your kit I'm sure that you would still be well within the limits of the original design. One of the things that I have thought about is when/if someone drills the bottom of the downtube the hole might not line up again if the lock is removed and reinstalled. Also if for some reason someone needed/wanted to retighten the downtube.
I agree with Walter here. I don't think you would cause any undue harm by re-drilling or aligning.
Also, with a little care you could certainly install the lock at just the right depth and clock position to utilize your existing lower holes. If you've already drilled your upper holes though all's moot.
If you are not going to use/need the kit I will be happy to refund your money. I'll look to see if you got a later version of the kit. If so, that will offer you a better opportunity to work with the existing holes. Sorry I didn't see this post in time if you've drilled the upper holes. This forum works extremely fast!
Hey, Guys. The next batch of blind roll bar attachment kits are now available. Hopefully I will now be able to keep up without making people wait.
Here are the particulars -
I'll gladly take PayPal, [email protected] or tell me you're sending me a check and I'll ship your kit(s) out. $85 for one $166 for two. Includes shipping. Florida res add $5.60 or $11.20 for the state.
Tangent Technologies, Inc.
11632 Woodside Lane
Jacksonville, Fl 32223
Thanks, guys. I'm in process of placing a banner on the forum to help support the great community effort we've got going here. In the meantime excuse the shameless plugs.
I just finished installing Don's blind roll bar system this weekend and it works great. Easy install and although there is no way to really tell I can't see any difference in the strenght of the attachment.
The subject keeps coming up about the strength of the attachment for racing purposes. I truly don't know what the racing association postition would be on something like this. I would imagine that the spec racer program would frown on any changes between vehicles, this mod included. As for racing outside of the spec racer program, I don't know if inspectors are intimate enough with the kit to look for a through bolt on the bars. As I've stated before, the wedge lock exceeds the pressure of a full twenty ton press. The weak link would be the threaded 3/8-16 stud used to make the connection. In thinking about a crash, God forbid, in a frontal upsidedown slide you have exactly the same strength as before. Like wise for any side pressures. The issue comes into play on a backward slide with an abrupt encounter with some low obstruction. This could be enough force to snap the connection possibly, however it would also be enough force to snap the original kit connection as well. On the original kit connection the bolt is probably not going to shear, the softer metal on the shoulder is going to pull free while deforming the bolt. I feel that there is plenty of inherent strength in the attachment of the roll bar to the chassis and then up through the body to limit the rotating moment of the hoop itself. Of course there would be major damage either way and I would think by the time the connection actually breaks, if it does, then you've got other worries besides. At any rate. The blind kit, even though very strong, is meant to be a cosmetic replacement for the through bolt for guys that are little more concerned with asthetics. I would think a full race car would not be too concerned about the through bolt showing. Keep in mind that FFR states that they are supplying parts for a car intended for the track and that you alone are responsible for the consequences of the use of their product. Naturally, I take the same position as I'm sure all vendors do. It is up to each builder to evalutate the products offered and determine the suitability for his/her purposes. I offer a full refund including shipping for anyone that determines the blind roll bar kit is not what they think they need. (So far, no returns)
I'm sure as time moves forward there may be a definitive ruling on the issue. Those that have installed the blind kit can simply drill the hole for the through bolt if the rules require it. No harm done.
Any thoughts from FFR or others on this? They have been sent the kits to look at. The consensus was that they liked it. But I didn't take that as any kind of endorsement of the product. I don't know if they can/would do that anyway.
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