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Finally starting!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We're rebuilding our MK1 because the guy who built it did it shoddy. We're ripping out the donor wiring because its a mess and way to cluttered and are installing a Painless wiring kit from Jegs. We want to run connectors at every point possible, to make the dash/body removeable easily. Right now it was all hardwired in with the only option being to cut it, so that's what I did.

Where can I get these connectors and how many should I need?

Also, I'm redoing the suspension completely and putting rear coilovers on the car. Does the upper mount that you have to cross drill have to be perfect, like the holes level and in a specific spot or can I just eyeball it and count on the bearing in the end of the coilovers to take care of any slight errors?

Lastly, the front suspension, I put new upper and lower balljoints because mine were blown, but how much do I tighten them down in the spindle?

Thanks
Matt
 

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you will need weather pack connectors for each light. These will be 2 pin. The best deal seems to be on ebay. you can order sets made up to your needs. For the dash, it depends on how much you need removable. Just having connectors on the lights will enable you to remove the body. If you want to be able to remove the dash, then you will need connectors for all the guages and switches. Those do not need to be weather pack. molex or most any other type of connector you choose will work for the dash stuff. It would seem to me that unless you are doing lots of racing mods, removing the dash is not something you do very often. I also used weather pack connectors under the hood for all the engine wiring. Hope that helps

Mike
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,720 Posts
Here's a good source for wiring stuff.
http://www.waytekwire.com/

I've had my dash off a few times, so the quick disconnects make it much easier. If you can find pictures of GarageFreak's build here, you can see some good examples of how to wire up the dash.

For the drilling the holes to mount the coil-overs, the bearing should help if you're off a little bit, but I would want to get it as close as you can. It would probably be easier to drill both holes from the rear of the trunk than to do one at a time. I find that a uni-bit is great for cutting through the frame. Rips through it like butter. Best $20 I spent on the build.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
Matt need to tighten the ball joint stud tight enough to seat it into the taper of the spindle while haveing a hole align for a cotter pin.
Sometimes it may be nessasary to tap the ball joint into the spindle to help seat the stud into it's taper so it does'nt turn while your trying to tighten the nut.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,740 Posts
On the rear coilover upper mounts-just eyeball them.I drilled mine and was concerned that the shock would hit the 2x3 outer edge. So drilled out as far as possible leaving enough metal to be comfortable.When you hold that shock up into that area you will realize that there is very litle option.1/4 inch here or there is about it. Good luck
 

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Blue Oval Scribe
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9,177 Posts
The lights actually take three wire plugs. Hi/lo/ground. You will need eight for the lights at all four corners...

Most people use two 12-pin Molex for the dash. 24 wires is usually enough for gauges and switches (with ganged power and grounds)...

HTH...
Mark
 
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