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Discussion Starter #1
What are the t56 guys doing about the reverse lockout?
Can you remove it?
Can you put it on a switch on the console/dash?
Make it function with a 427 shift handle reverse lockout tabs? (lot of creative engineering)

I would really like to keep the 427 style shifter.
 

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What are the t56 guys doing about the reverse lockout?
Can you remove it?
Can you put it on a switch on the console/dash?
Make it function with a 427 shift handle reverse lockout tabs? (lot of creative engineering)

I would really like to keep the 427 style shifter.
You can hook it to a switch located where you like. I have seen people do that with a delay timer so they don't have to hold the switch while they shift. I have seen people wire it to the brake light switch.

The best solution I have seen is to take the solenoid apart and replace the lockout spring with one that's about half as strong. That keeps the lockout functioning but will let you go to reverse without fighting it. There is still some pressure to overcome but it goes in easily with one hand. I wish I cold tell you where to source the spring from but unfortunately I don't know.
 

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We have an ingenious piece of electronics to take care of it! $135.00 & contains a box pigtails and instructions. It keeps the reverse lockout functional [no reverse unless under 10mph] It also hooks to the vss sensor on the transmission. we have these in stock & ready to ship

Steve
 

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There are a lot of ways you can do this. As illustrated above, you can use the Fortes option. It's simple and elegant.

A couple of years ago, I installed a T56 in an ImpalaSS. In that case, I wired it to the brake switch. It won't go into reverse unless the brake is depressed.

You could also leave the reverse lockout disconnected. The reverse lockout only adds the pressure of the solenoid to prevent the tranny from going into reverse.

You could also remove the reverse solenoid but considering how close reverse is to 6th gear, this is not recommended. It's only a matter of time before you put in in "Race" mode at highway speed.

On the roadster, I wired the reverse lockout to a momentary contact switch under the dash. I have to depress the switch with my left hand while shifting into reverse. Once in reverse, I can release the switch. This affords a little extra security when parked. Unless you know where the switch is located, it's very hard to get into reverse.

Bruce
 

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The brake switch idea has been known to cause problems especially if you track the car. Heel and toe while shifting makes hitting reverse a possibility as more than one person has found out.

The spring change out I detailed above doesn't have issues like that and can be done for $20 or less. That is how I plan to handle it on my build. I am going to see if I can get some springs and I'll post back.
 

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What does it take to keep it working as OEM?

I am planning to use the circuit board from the donor gauge cluster and the CCRM. Anything else needed to make it work? I have not went back and chased the diagrams to see what it takes.
 

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Let me know on the springs. Andrew

OK here is the reverse lockout fix. Take the solenoid and remove the snap ring, then take the internals of the solenoid out as below.



Here is a pic of the oem spring with the custom replacement spring, oem spring on the left updated replacement on the right. The replacement is half the resistance of the the oem plus it is a touch longer. I think it is pefect as is but there is room to trim a coil or so if you decide you want it a bit lighter. Notice the new spring is already installed here. Compress in a vice, remove the C clip and release the pressure. Reassemble with the updated spring and you will still have resistance going into reverse but it is light enough to push through single handed. I think this is a much better solution than any of the wiring schemes I have seen. Simple, effective, and cheap.




I have a few springs available for $25 shipped. Let me know if you want one. You won't be disappointed.

Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #11
pcm

After reading online I found out that the pcm controls the lockout module allowing you so shift into reverse when ever the car is below 5 mph.

However there are a lot of post on mustang forums about changing out the spring, cutting out 1.5 coils from the factory spring, or removing the spring from the solenoid. $0-$25

There are also a lot of posts about adding an aftermarket electronic module that activates the solenoid below 3 mph. $99

It sounds like the pcm from ford does a poor job of activating the reverse lockout. I am going to wait till I go-cart in a few weeks to decide what action to take. When I started this post because I was miss led that there was a ring on top of the shifter boot that you lifted to shift in reverse. (I didn't get the shifter with the transmission)
 

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Scott,

Did you keep the gauge cluster or the printed circuit board in it? I am trying to figure out how to get the VSS to my Speedhut speedo and the PCM. I will need both to make this work along with the traction control. I am keeping the PCB, but not the whole gauge cluster. I am hoping I can tie the speedo onto the old speedo connection. I will try to call Speedhut next week for some info.

Good Luck

What shifter did you buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I talked art at wirediet.com. My understanding is that you can do traction control without the mustang instrument cluster but you would not have the warning lights that there is a problem with traction control. The only why to find out if you have a malfunction is to hook up a code scanner and check for error codes.

Scott,

Did you keep the gauge cluster or the printed circuit board in it? I am trying to figure out how to get the VSS to my Speedhut speedo and the PCM. I will need both to make this work along with the traction control. I am keeping the PCB, but not the whole gauge cluster. I am hoping I can tie the speedo onto the old speedo connection. I will try to call Speedhut next week for some info.

Good Luck

What shifter did you buy?
 
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