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Discussion Starter #1
Going through my wiring on a body-on GTM. Is there any compendium of corrections to the manual by FF? I don't want to spend hours following the original manual to find it is incorrect.

My current wiring:
GTMWiring.jpg
 

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The wire for the hazard switch comes to mind. This is the way the hazard wiring SHOULD be:

Here is the way the circuit should trace out:



Fuse in fuse block feeds 12v to hazard flasher...the flasher right next to the fuse labeled "hazard".



#951 Brown wire comes out of other post on the flasher and goes to Hazard Relay pin 30 and APEM Hazard switch Common.



From Hazard Switch NO, run wire to pin 85 on Hazard Relay. Attach pin 86 of Hazard Relay to ground.



Run wire from Pin 87 on Hazard Relay to Pin A in the large stalk connector....Brown wire.



Stalk connector--- Pin B (Dark Green) AND Pin F (Dark Blue) connect together and also connect to Dark Green and Dark Blue (Right Turn) wires of the Painless Harness



Stalk connector--- Pin C (Yellow) and Pin G (light Blue) connect together and also connect to Yellow and Light Blue (Left Turn) wires of the Painless Harness.



Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Think you, the manual is not so clear at that point. More questions to follow after I install the minisplit in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well golleee! Every loose thread entails a new unraveling and catch 22s. Below is a picture of the mess I am working on. I have never seen a worse hack job of wiring in my previous 40 years in the auto repair business. The hole in the aluminum panel was removed for access because the panel is landlocked by the body. The hole is not sufficient after new discoveries beyond reach.

Rather than cut new holes, I will slice the panel and remove it up to where it abuts the vertical sheet. SO, here is a question. Is there enough room under the dash to run the wiring bundles over the top of the panel instead of under it thus preventing future heartache?




360668
 

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Oh my! At what point do you just start over from scratch? That looks like a nightmare for sure.
 

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By the time you get all of the defrost and vent hoses under the dash, there's not much room left for a huge wire bundle. One thing you will want to fix for sure is the huge hole where all of your vent ducts come up thru. If you don't seal that entire area up air-tight around the vent hoses, it will feel like you have a blast furnace mounted under the dash when you're driving down the road.
 

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There were many sleepless nights when I was wiring the GTM. It came down to taking it one wire at a time. Some of them are grouped together but trying to digest all of that at once is really really hard. Doing one wire at a time is much easier. It takes a long time but it will be done right and you'll feel great after.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Roger, Shane on the defrost hoses. There doesn't seem to have been any attempt to seal the tunnel at the end or emerging from the dash panel.

Because I will have to cut across the panel to remove the piece with the hole in it, is there someway to cut a clean straight line or will I have to freehand it? All the while avoiding slicing on the underlying frame member.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have come to the point where the steering column must be removed for access. Not being the guy who assembled the column, I can't get the column assembly to separate from the shaft. How to do that?
 

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Are there set screws or a rivet thru the shaft that are holding them together? If not, there should not be anything to prevent the steering column shaft from being pulled out of the steel DD shaft that goes down thru the pedal box.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No set screws that I can locate. This is a non-telescoping column. It appears just as the illustrations in the build manual show. My understanding is that the column should just slide off of the long shaft? Here are a couple of photos. 20201014_160820_001.jpg 20201014_161133.jpg 20201014_161114.jpg
 

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Yes....the main shaft should just slide off the end of the steering column. If it doesn't want to, I would guess the builder probably shimmed it tight and forced it on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Frozen in place - the shaft is locked in place. Can the complete shaft be pulled through the footbox wall with the u-joint from the other side?
 

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If the steering column is frozen to the shaft, I think you can take the shaft support off the front wall and slide the whole shaft off the steering rack. I've never had to do it, but it looks like you should be able to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, steering column removal will have to be back burner for now. Other issues have risen. This is like Whack-a-Mole. Today removing the Corvette fuel tanks for replacement with the aluminum tanks. Does anyone use these anymore?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Imagine your car is finished and has a nice purty paint job and all. How does one go about doing maintenance? Leaning over the side of the fenders seems to be asking for paint problems since you have to pretty much hang your whole body weight on the fender due to its width. Working from the rear is tough unless you have have plastic man arms. Not to mention the backend metalwork is none to sturdy. What is the solution? A top creeper?
 

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Well, no one said these cars would be easy to work on, let alone build from scratch, but what supercar is? With only so much space in the GTM, builders have gotten really creative on where to put things that unfortunately may require extensive work to access later. I'm currently working on planning out my engine oil and transaxle oil coolers and all the stuff that goes into making it work. All the while trying to keep in mind of trying to make it semi-serviceable. The transaxle oil filter is going to be a pain, but I have an idea in my head and we'll see if it pans out :)
 
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