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I don't have the windshield or roll bar on yet so haven't cut the hole. I did do some rough measurements and it looks like it will layout between rafters ok. I will also have plenty of room for a car below. No chance of a suv below.
 

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Vegasjack
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The electric opener does not have to be in the center of the door It can be off to the side to make room for the lift.
I agree that one does not necessarily need to remove the garage door opener. In my case, even though I can lift the car to full height the lift.

I had to remove the garage door opener and track, which allowed free room all the way to the ceiling. So, I get full lift height.

HOWEVER...when the car is at full length, I can not open the garage door (now done manually) since it, the very top of the door, will hit the roll bars. If your garage is deep enough, one may may avoid this problem. But in that case, you probably won't need to remove the opener.

Other than being careful, I am fine with opening my door half-way. I can also drive my driving-cobra underneath, while second project cobra is fully lifted.
 

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Hey, anybody out there with a single post lift, still would like your input!
Thanks Rob
 

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we own a ramp style 4 post , but and heres the but im a retired master certified mechanic and have used both styles if a 4 post ramp hoist is used spend the extra money a buy 2 optional jack plates and get the span jack that is made for the hoist , a lot messing around when you have to jack up the car on the hoist alignment work is a breeze with the suspension loaded, i prefer the 2 post h style hoist they have lock so the car wont fall when engaged , and this preferance is dictated by access to the car when lifted for work remember the ramps will be in the way and baby only has 4 in ground clearance , once you have one youll use it more than you think , if your lucky enough to have room and can swing it get both , you can store 4 cars in the space required for two, try moving the hoist as far to the back wall to help with door clearance , and yes we had to build a bump out into the garage attic for the car to recess into with the hoist fully raised
 

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Discussion Starter #26
we own a ramp style 4 post , but and heres the but im a retired master certified mechanic and have used both styles if a 4 post ramp hoist is used spend the extra money a buy 2 optional jack plates and get the span jack that is made for the hoist , a lot messing around when you have to jack up the car on the hoist alignment work is a breeze with the suspension loaded, i prefer the 2 post h style hoist they have lock so the car wont fall when engaged , and this preferance is dictated by access to the car when lifted for work remember the ramps will be in the way and baby only has 4 in ground clearance , once you have one youll use it more than you think , if your lucky enough to have room and can swing it get both , you can store 4 cars in the space required for two, try moving the hoist as far to the back wall to help with door clearance , and yes we had to build a bump out into the garage attic for the car to recess into with the hoist fully raised
Thank you for the advise. This spring I will consider all that everyone wrote thank you
 

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FWIW, if you talk to a garage door company they may be able to redo the door be higher up. Sometimes they put the tracks the same height as the opening, not all the way up to the ceiling. They can add another door panel and raise the tracks all the way up to the ceiling. I did this on my shop door to get the max height for a 2 post asym lift.
 

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Vegasjack
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I have a two pole lift in a single car side of a 3 car garage. The door is just the normal door. The lift works great for most all things. I can lift the cobra up high, to a point I can walk underneath it. But I am 5-9. Any taller would be questionable. To do this I had to remove the garage door opener. But the the garage door side rails. So I can lift the garage door by hand when needed. When the cobra is lifted at the max, I can only open the door half way up, as the top of the door will hit the roll bars. But this allows me enough room to drive my project cobra in and out of the garage, even with my other cobra fully lifted. The Specs for the lift will probably say they want more cement thickness than a home garage floor provides. I personally don't worry about it, since I only intend to put the cobra at 2300 pounds on it, whereas it is rated for 9500 lbs. I did security the top of each lift to reinforced ceiling rafters for safety. All in all I think it works great and love it.
 

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Vegasjack
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I have a two pole lift in a single car side of a 3 car garage. The door is just the normal door. The lift works great for most all things. I can lift the cobra up high, to a point I can walk underneath it. But I am 5-9. Any taller would be questionable. To do this I had to remove the garage door opener. But the the garage door side rails. So I can lift the garage door by hand when needed. When the cobra is lifted at the max, I can only open the door half way up, as the top of the door will hit the roll bars. But this allows me enough room to drive my project cobra in and out of the garage, even with my other cobra fully lifted. The Specs for the lift will probably say they want more cement thickness than a home garage floor provides. I personally don't worry about it, since I only intend to put the cobra at 2300 pounds on it, whereas it is rated for 9500 lbs. I did security the top of each lift to reinforced ceiling rafters for safety. All in all I think it works great and love it.
Once again, I did not have to move the door rails. I had plenty of room between them. Only removed the door opener. Just have to make sure you don't lift the car with the door wide open as it would hit the bottom of the rail. But don't know why one would do that. I am very careful lifting and dropping the car while on the lift.
 

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As always, thanks everyone for adding to our 'car stuff body of knowledge'. I am considering a 4-post in a garage with a 11' ceiling, but will need to move the door tracks up from their current location and probably use edwardb's liftmaster-8500 opener or equivalent. Do you guys have suggestions for a 4-poster models that you like? Pictures?
 

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Since I live less than a mile from a major fault line, I have to be more worries about ground wiggles than most and am happy with my 4 Post lift. I also pretty much only use it for storage. I do agree with people that the 2-post is better for working on the car. Ideally, I would have one of each. (y)

In my last house, I had a low garage ceiling and could not fit the garage door and a car on the lift. I switched out the sectional garage door (mainly because it was broken and had to be replaced) to a commercial roll up type. After owning a roll up garage door, I really do not want to go back to the sectionals. At the time back in 2009, the roll up was $400 more, but it was worth it. Super easy to install. The spring is in the door roll, so I do not have to worry about broke springs hurting anyone. And even without a garage door opener, it was super easy to lift and lower. The biggest advantage of the roll up door is that you get all of your garage ceiling back.
 

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I went with a four post lift and I have 10 foot ceilings. Had the garage door reconfigured to go all the way to the ceiling and added a side mount door opener. Total cost for the door change and opener was around $1500. I didn't have to change the door and they can just add additional railing to get it up to the ceiling. It's perfect. I keep the cobra stored up high and I keep my Audi parked underneath. Essentially turned my two car garage into a three car. I went with the inexpensive Atlas four post lift. Paid around $2k for it and had it delivered and installed professionally for $500. I wouldn't recommend installing one of these yourself. All in price was around $4k. I did end up purchasing the Race Ramps to drive up onto it. The ramps it comes with weigh as much as a walrus, so the Race Ramps are nice at about 3 pounds each.
-Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I went with a four post lift and I have 10 foot ceilings. Had the garage door reconfigured to go all the way to the ceiling and added a side mount door opener. Total cost for the door change and opener was around $1500. I didn't have to change the door and they can just add additional railing to get it up to the ceiling. It's perfect. I keep the cobra stored up high and I keep my Audi parked underneath. Essentially turned my two car garage into a three car. I went with the inexpensive Atlas four post lift. Paid around $2k for it and had it delivered and installed professionally for $500. I wouldn't recommend installing one of these yourself. All in price was around $4k. I did end up purchasing the Race Ramps to drive up onto it. The ramps it comes with weigh as much as a walrus, so the Race Ramps are nice at about 3 pounds each.
-Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thank you all for all the info.

I am guessing extended garage door. Side opener and a four post lift. Professionally installed with racing ramps.

Then when I convince my wife we need!!!!! another FFR kit maybe a coupe or a Ford coupe hot rod or maybe the truck! How to decide. Lol gotta have another right? I am able to retire in 6 years have to have another project. That Ford Coupe hit rod with an exposed super charged big block would be amazing!!

I will do it on the other side too.

Jason
 

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I absolutely love the Hot Rod Truck. Watched them build one at Barrett Jackson last year and then auction it off. As much as I love the coupe, I think I may opt for the truck for my next Factory5. As far as convincing the wife, you'd be surprised how cool she will think it is once it's installed. Everyone that comes over loves the lift setup and I can tell she's secretly proud of it.
Here's my setup...
 

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