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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am more than willing to put a 4 post lift in my garage. I'm 90 percent sure it will work. The garage door may have to be reworked.

I want to review my options.

The 4 post seems the best for storage. But looking at a recent post Edwardb had a two post for storage.

What's the main concern between 4 vs 2. Is it hanging the tires and wheels on the suspension.

In the post edwardb removed the wheels. Is this going to make a 2 post less harsh?

A two post would make things a whole lot easier in my 2 stall garage. Space, placement and garage door.

Jason
 

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FFCobra Captain
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I have a 4 post now and wish I had a 2 post.
I'm sure if I had a 2 post, I'd be saying I wish I had a 4 post at times.

There are some things that the 4 post is better for. I think the only stress point with the wheels hanging would be the shocks. Are they meant to be stored at full extension with weight on them? No clue as to the answer.

Long term storage would probably be better for the car. And there are some changes you probably would want to see with the car's weight on all 4 wheels. It was a lot easier to do the power steering conversion with the 4 post...didn't have to guess too much about how far the tie rod ends had to be screwed in without constantly having to raise & lower the car.

I think the safety police would also say that it's safer to have the car on a 4 post for long term storage...almost no risk of it coming down off the ramps by accident.

In retrospect, if I only had the money for one, I would get a 2 post (but that's probably being swayed by my current desire to have one).
 

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Because my lift is most often used for working on one vehicle or another, I believe a 4 post is somewhat better. By using a jack and jack stands, you can do any wheel or suspension work you need to do. But the 4 post allows you to easily do things like alignments, ride height, and corner weights. I can also use the runners as a work bench when I need to.

If you need to, the 4 post is fairly easy to move around. I have never needed to do this, though.

Also, the 4 post does take up more floor space.

No matter what type you get, you'll need a high lift garage door.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Make sure the floor in your garage is thick enough for a 2 post lift. With a 4 post, the floor thickness isn't an issue because the load is spread out over 4 points.

For the 2 post lifts, the manufacturer will have specs on required concrete floor thickness.

If you have limit straps on the rear axle, that will help keep the rear end droop to a minimum. With the wheels off on the front, there's not much weight to worry about.
 

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I have a standard 2 car garage and really would like to put in a lift. One problem is my wife's new car, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, which she refuses to leave outside. It would be extremely tight with either a 2 or 4 post lift.
I have looked at a single post lift I think will give me more room.
Has any body installed one and have an opinion, I sure would like to hear from you.
Thanks Rob
 

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I had and used a Danmar MaxJax in my 20x20 2-car garage at my last house. I was able to set the columns to allow room for building and storing the Roadster, but still allow my wife's DD SUV to be inside. Also a requirement in our household. You can set the columns as narrow or as wide as you want, and since they're removable/portable, can be moved out of the way when the lift isn't in use. Only raises about 48-inches. But with a standard height garage, that's about it. And still a huge improvement over jack stands or whatever. And it's not just about being underneath. Having the adjustable height means you can always have the chassis up at a decent working height, which my sensitive back appreciated. Their newer model has some improvements over the one I had. Something to consider. https://www.maxjaxusa.com/dannmar-m-6-certified.html.

Since then, have moved to a house that has enough room for a full height 2-post, which I love. But won't fit into everyone's situation, including mine from the past.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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IMHO the best lift for all kinds of work including storage is an asymmetrical 2 post. There is no issue w/ the shocks. They extend slowly as the lift is going up so no internal impact of hitting some kind of limiter. As you are looking around you will find that many of them have a range as to how far apart the posts can be so you can fudge some if needed for your wife's car. I would however put them as far apart as possible as it will make getting in and out that much easier. I would also put the post next to the wall as far from the wall as possible so you can get down onto the floor to set the arms. For some reason most have the pump and controller on the right side post but I don't know if that can be changed or not. BTW driving and/or parking under a 2 post is no sweat after the first couple of times. I worked for 10 years in an 8 bay shop that was 4 bays wide so 2 bays deep.
 

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I have a 19X19 garage and the smallest 4 post lift Direct Lift makes with the sliding jack. It's tight but I can do most anything with it. Would highly recommend for a small space. Scott

Front Suspension Upgrades 001.jpg 37 Ford 010.jpg Canon 018.jpg Canon 054.jpg
 

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jhargrove. No I was able to get the door to open/close with the lift sitting about a foot back from the opening. My garage ceiling is only 8.5 feet but I can get the cars about 40-45" off the ground with the opener still in place. I can remove the opener and stack 2 low cars giving me room for one more toy although this totally kills any practical work space in the garage.

Here's a link to the lift I have. https://www.directlift.ca/pro-park-8.htm

Scott
 

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Vegasjack
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Lift

I have a 2-post lift and love it. A major factor in a 2 post lift is whether or not your garage floor has expansion cables. If so, you will have to identify where they are in order to drill holes for the lift. Secondly, as one poster mentioned, garage floors cement is not as thick as most manufactures would like. This was not a major concern for me, since my lift is rated for 9500 pounds, yet I will only be putting a 2400 pound car on it, or some other small car as it is situation on my one car-door side of the garage, thus I cannot get a large car in there very easy.
As a safety precaution, I secured the top of each lift tower to ceiling rafters. Then better secured the ceiling rafters. The towers are not going anywhere.

Next. I removed the automatic door opener, but left the door rails in place. I can manually open the door all the way, yet with the door closed, I can lift the car to the full extension of the lift, since I have 10 foot ceilings. Note, I am 5'9" and can and do hit my head on the tire with car at full extension. Otherwise it is easy to walk around.
I put my cobra up high and park it, while working on second project beneath. It is also nice to just put the Cobra up high an away and have your garage space open. BTW: My lift is 110V which makes it nice too.
 

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Next. I removed the automatic door opener, but left the door rails in place. I can manually open the door all the way, yet with the door closed, I can lift the car to the full extension of the lift, since I have 10 foot ceilings. .
The electric opener does not have to be in the center of the door. It can be off to the side to make room for the lift.
 

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I've used these in my last two garages. They're awesome. Liftmaster 8500.

 

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I wanted to have either a 2 post or a 4 post lift, but there just wasn't enough room. I ended up with a Bendpak scissor lift that can lift 7000 pounds, and will lift it 6' in the air. Super happy with how it turned out - fast up and down. Only downside is not being able to stack two cars in one spot.

 

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First I'll start off saying I love my 4 post lift. The ability to move is a plus for me, I can jack car up on the lift to do all the work I need, I feel the safety factor plays in. But all lifts do have there own concerns. I have a 9.5' ceiling so I have to do two pockets between the rafters . One for the windshield and the second for the row bar. I figured it fits my needs more. In regards to the garage door, I needed more height on my door going up to the ceiling so I did my research on hi lift garage kits. They were very pricey. Talking to the local pros, I came to the conclusion from many installers to just use the tracks from a 8' door . The installer came out and just swapped out the tracks for 225. It worked out perfect. My door now goes so much closer to my ceiling and it clears my lift perfectly.
 

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First I'll start off saying I love my 4 post lift. The ability to move is a plus for me, I can jack car up on the lift to do all the work I need, I feel the safety factor plays in. But all lifts do have there own concerns. I have a 9.5' ceiling so I have to do two pockets between the rafters . One for the windshield and the second for the row bar. I figured it fits my needs more. In regards to the garage door, I needed more height on my door going up to the ceiling so I did my research on hi lift garage kits. They were very pricey. Talking to the local pros, I came to the conclusion from many installers to just use the tracks from a 8' door . The installer came out and just swapped out the tracks for 225. It worked out perfect. My door now goes so much closer to my ceiling and it clears my lift perfectly.
I have the exact same situation with the 9’5” ceiling height and was considering doing the pockets in the rafters like you did. Can you post a picture or PM me with one? I would love to see how you did it and what it looks like.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
First I'll start off saying I love my 4 post lift. The ability to move is a plus for me, I can jack car up on the lift to do all the work I need, I feel the safety factor plays in. But all lifts do have there own concerns. I have a 9.5' ceiling so I have to do two pockets between the rafters . One for the windshield and the second for the row bar. I figured it fits my needs more. In regards to the garage door, I needed more height on my door going up to the ceiling so I did my research on hi lift garage kits. They were very pricey. Talking to the local pros, I came to the conclusion from many installers to just use the tracks from a 8' door . The installer came out and just swapped out the tracks for 225. It worked out perfect. My door now goes so much closer to my ceiling and it clears my lift perfectly.

Awesome! Thank you. I wondered if you could just change up the track a little. Probally had to move the lift some too?
 
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