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FFCobra Fanatic
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When using the Honda starter button, the article says to use a SPDT 30A/12v relay. They also say RadioShack has them. ...They don't! So where can/have people been getting these? ...thanks.. :rolleyes:
 

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oldsnake
If you like Graingers catlog you will love DIDI-KEY. 1-8000-DIGI-KEY or www.digikey.com .You can find most anything to wire up your car.
 

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Why would you need a relay? The wire that runs from my regular key switch to the starter solenoid is a tiny little devil. If I were to pluck down the $40 for a Honda Switch I would simply connect the Honda switch to that little wire and off I go.
 

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You have to run a relay on the Honda button as it is not designed to carry any significant current.
 

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Wow, 30A sounds like a bit much. It's only an 18 gauge wire. Shouldn't be more than 2-3 amps on that circuit. I would try a 10 amp, worst case you burn up the relay contacts.
 

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Those instructions are for a Honda, not an FFR build.

First, the starter solenoid "S" terminal never draws 30AMPS. I'd say 3 amps at the most for Pete's sake. After all, the starter Solenoid is a RELAY, ain't it?

Next, he recommends 18-gauge wire to hook up the switch. That's good enough for 15AMPS in short runs. There's no talk of a fuse either.

Just to make sure, I would check the current draw on my "S" line and then compare it to the S2000 switch. I'm certain that switch's got to have at least a 10AMP rating.

Way too much overkill for something so bloody simple. I'd just hook up my "S" line to the OUTPUT line of that switch and call it a day.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Yeah, how much current does the starter solenoid activate wire carry anyway? It's just a tiny little push-on thing.

I just hooked up my S2000 button yesterday. I put PIN1 to the start position on my ignition, PIN2 to ACC power so that the button will only work when the key is "on".

I've run the starter a half dozen times so far with no problems.

As far as I can tell the starter solenoid IS a form of relay. Someone with more knowledge feel free to tell me I'm wrong here?
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Relay contacts are rated for constant current.
A momentary or short period of over current will not hurt the Honda switch.

You can use a 5A relay if you feel it is necessary.
I am using the Honda switch to control the OEM starter relay. (~1 A)
I do not recommend using the Honda switch to control the solenoid.
It may work for a while, but I am not sure for how many months....
You will eventually burn up the switch contacts as they are not rated for much current.
$40.00 switch is worth hooking up a $5.00 relay.

SPST Relay connections:
Pin 85 to honda switch
Pin 86 to ground
Pin 30 to battery
Pin 87 to solenoid

Just my $.02

Ed
FFR1997K
 

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Waytek Wire has nice relays at a good price.

www.waytekwire.com

They also sell the bases you can wire up to make relay replacement easy.

Yes a solenoid IS a relay. And the sterters with the solenoid built in use little amperage to trigger them. My mini-starter, with the solenoid, lasted about 40 miles in the exhaust heat. I switched to a rat-trap starter and used the solenoid I had previously installed on the firewall. I believe it works better and the starter was less expensive than the mini-starter.

You really don't want any appreciable amperage at the dash switches. Use relays whenever you can. It reduces the length of heavy wire run and in the event of a short circuit, can save your dash, your switches, your instruments and maybe you!
 

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Ed do you have a schematic you can draw up and post? just curious!

Rgds

Rob
 

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You can get a plain-jane relay like FFR supplies for the cooling fan at NAPA for 5-10 bucks.
 

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Rob,

My mistake with words... Like Eng Ed said, The Honda switch will work fine standalone to energise the STARTER RELAY, which is totally different from the STARTER SOLENOID.

The picture below, shows the STARTER RELAY in front of my brake master cylinder.

It has three terminals. Two are heavy duty 1/4" copper terminals with nuts. They connect the battery (+) to the Starter Motor. The third contact named "S" is located in the middle of the starter relay. In mine, a little wire with a slip-on plug is used to energize the relay with +12V when the key is turned.

The Honda switch OUTPUT lead can be connected to that line ("S") in the center of the starter relay. I would not have any problems hooking up the Honda switch directly to that terminal.

 

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Don't know if you already saw this... :eek:

If you combine 2 “automotive” style relays and ANY 2 switches that you like, you can build any arrangement that looks or works the way that you want it to… Check out http://www.digikey.com/. They have several different types of “automotive” style relays and key-switches. You can use any of them with the relays and the Honda starter button that you like. Use the highest rated relays that they offer and they will last forever and will minimize the electrical loading of the key-switch and starter button. :D

Here is the actual page from the Digi-Key catalog. What you want to use is the VF-4 (PB527-ND) style of relay and the VF-4 relay socket with wiring harness (PB316-ND)

http://info.digikey.com/T023/V5/0795-0803.pdf

Here are the pages for the key-switches

http://info.digikey.com/T023/V5/0754-0755.pdf
http://info.digikey.com/T023/V5/0757-0758.pdf
http://info.digikey.com/T023/V5/0768-0769.pdf

Good Luck
 

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Originally posted by Larry N. Johnson:
Jose,

Why is your aluminum yellow-green?

LNJ
I'm a home airplane builder and have seen first hand the corrosion problems on aluminum when the aluminum is exposed to the elements or through electrolytic corrosion. I used Zinc Oxide from Aircraft Spruce. That gives it the green primer look. If you want aluminum to last you have to cover it with something or keep it polished and protect d with a suitable aluminum polish goop.

No one can see the aluminum anyways so it does not really matter what you do with it as long as it is protected. Mine has rubberized undercoating in the outside and zinc oxide in the inside.
 
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