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Update: It turns out that you can just rivet an piece of aluminum stock to the fuel sender mount that comes with the RCI fuel tank and then attach the stock sending unit. By straightening out the float arm, it will swing the full depth of the tank. A cheap way to get the fuel gauge to work!

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Clint - how did you route the wires to get the 2 signals out of the tank?
 

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Hmmm, so it looks like you brought out one signal and grounded the other? Does that work? Looking at the schematics, both signals are brought into the instrument cluster.

I think we're going to need a bulkhead connector to get the other signal out. Or maybe drill a hole to bring the 2 wires out and fill it with silicone, then add a 2 place connector.
 

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Cone Killer
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Discussion Starter #144
Yes, one of the wires goes to ground but I'm traveling so I can't tell you which one for sure. If you have a meter, you should be able to tell. I'll be able to check this weekend, if you haven't figured it out.
 

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Brown.
 

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Cone Killer
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Discussion Starter #147
A bit more info on the side bars. In my opinion, the side bars could serve three purposes. They could stiffen the car from folding up on itself, transfer force from one end of the car to other in a collision, or provide protection in a side impact. In two of these instances, the bar is in compression. (One other feature they provide is making it tougher to get in and out of the car, hence the point of this project.)

If you look at the pic with Frankie, you can see the bar out of the car (but reversed from the picture above it.) You can see that it is simply a bent tube with a down leg at the bend. Since I added the bend, that is where the bar would want to fail if exposed to excessive compression force. To combat that, I added the down leg. The way I built it, the end of each tube has a nut welded in like the rear of the bars supplied with the kit. The rear and front of the new bar installs at about the same locations as the bar supplied with the kit. The down bar goes down to the flat ledge just behind the seat track. In all cases, there is a 3/16” thick plate installed on either side of unibody creating a sandwich. So installed, a bolt goes from the outside of the car, through a 3/16” plate, through the unibody, through another 3/16” plate, to the nut welded into the tube.

So what does that leave? In compression, the bar will now either push the 2”x2”x3/16” steel sandwich plates through the unibody at one of the attachment points or buckle the bar, likely where I bent it, just behind the seat. It will likely buckle in the horizontal plane either out to the b-pillar or into the seat frame. The bar included with the kit will buckle either up, down, in, or out (due to its square shape) about in the middle of the bar, just in front of the seat back. Truth be told, if I’m in a situation where that bar is buckling, I’m in serious trouble anyway.

So, with this bar, I gain much easier access, retain most (if not all) the front to rear stiffness but lose 4” in the side impact protection. Again, as low as this car sits, my head would be right at suv bumper height with either bar.
Please provide thoughts, feedback. It’s just bolt in so I can always go back to the kit bar or modify this bar.
 

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This is a mod we've talked about a couple of times. I think it's a good idea to add some support in the middle of that long brace, and I don't think pulling the attachment point down hurts from a structural standpoint.

Ideally we would have some computer modeling to explore these types of changes. Anyone here have modeling skills & tools? :)
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Good One! I like the 4" extra clearance, Clarence. Will try to replicate this idea if the stock bar proves to be a pain in practice.
 

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It says the video is private.
 

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Its running real rough...
Sounds like my John Deere when it's cold!

Congrats on sorting the exhaust. Sounds like lots of solo home beta development is still going into that area since there are so many engine choices.

Cheers, John
 

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Cone Killer
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Discussion Starter #158
Sounds like my John Deere when it's cold!

Congrats on sorting the exhaust. Sounds like lots of solo home beta development is still going into that area since there are so many engine choices.

Cheers, John
I was able to use the standard exhaust that comes with the kit. I only had to make the turbo to cat pipe. It gets awful close to a few things and I'll probably make some heat shields but I think we may have gotten lucky. Smyth may be able to provide a standard exhaust and only swap out that connecting pipe based on engine choice.

And yeah, those 1.8t engines sound like crap with 'open' exhausts, IMHO.
 

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And is that a wide open left side? I closed mine down to 4 1/4 inch holes on the left out of noise concerns.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Good one! Love the video, and the sound. Nice to hear a non-TDI G3F!
 
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