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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting a 5-lug conversion into a 93' rearend that I'll use when my kit arrives in June. Will be running 15" Halibrands and the FFR powder-coated frame.

Question on paint: I know you can't see the rearend when standing, and I know the Halibrands are closed such that you see little if any of the brake drum...

But I still feel I should paint the entire assembly. I have 3 questions:

1. POR-15 is the paint - right?

2. How do I prep the rearend & new drums for painting?

3. Do I brush-on POR-15 or find someone who'll load spray cans of POR-15 for me (I currently do not have sprayer and I understand the inhalation issues with spraying POR-15 anyway.)

4. How about colors? I'm assuming flat or gloss black to match the frame, but I'm just curious what colors other's have used (photos?)

Cheers!
 

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Just clean it and wire brush off the heavy rust, then brush the POR right over the rust. The POR paint when brushed on levels out smoothly and gives a rock hard finish. I used it on my Chevelles rear and Im going to use it again on my Cobra (assuming I sell the Chevy).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How much POR-15 is required to paint the rearend assembly and hubs?

I understand that a little POR-15 goes a long way. Been thinking of ordering a 6-pack of the small cans so as not to waste it...
 

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This is what I have done for many years, it works very well. I use a 4" grinder with a stiff/ agressive wire wheel (cup). It cleans up parts like axels very quickly and easily. I wipe it down with alcohol or paint thinner then use a rattle can rust converter such as "Extend" from home depot. Wait about 20" then spray a semi gloss black ovet that. It will look good up close and great under your car. Krylon makes the easiest to apply spray cans and the durability is good. They can be had at Wallmart. Other brands are good but I like Krylon the best. In my experience POR 15 looks terrible especially if brushed on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, John... How durable is the result? Sounds easier than dealing with POR-15!
 

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Any paint is good, but por 15 is glossy and ROCK hard.
 

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The oldest pieces that I had done like that are from the first time I did a resto on my 66 Mustang in the early 80's. Most of those pieces were still in good shape when I took it apart for this more complete restoration. The first time around I did not use a rust converter so there were spots an some parts that were not cleaned off as well. This time around everything got the rust inhibitor wether or nbot the metal was perfectly clean or had some " patina". That was about 3 years ago. The parts still look new. I used Eastwood spray gay, detail gray and alumina blast. The 9" rear got Eastwood Chassis Black. The result is all the parts look like they did the day the car was built. Aside from rocks chipping away at the paint it should still look good 10 years from now.
 

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I'm with john. Wire brush, Extend and Krylon is an excellent combo. If works well, it's easy to find, it looks good, and it lasts a long time. Like john, I did a light restoration of my '66 coupe about 12 years ago, and used that combo on a lot of parts. Still looks good today.
 

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and



I used POR on everything (tank, rear, control arms, etc) and the one can was all I needed with some to spare. I cleaned the parts with their marine clean (any degreaser should work) and any bare, non-rusty metal with metal-ready (an etchant) and used foam brushes to apply. It's all glass smooth finish and rock-hard.

[ April 30, 2005, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: fiveliter8 ]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow... I'm surprised at how smooth that finish looks, Alex. From the photos, I would have guess it had been sprayed on. Great job!
Sherrell
 

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Just clean it and wire brush off the heavy rust, then brush the POR right over the rust. The POR paint when brushed on levels out smoothly and gives a rock hard finish. I used it on my Chevelles rear and Im going to use it again on my Cobra (assuming I sell the Chevy).
Some of the POR products require a top coat. They aren't designed for UV exposure.
 
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