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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have come to terms that I need to replace my rear main seal. I have three questions:

1. Is my diagnosis correct? I have some dripping of oil from the flexplate every heat cycle. I thought it might be valve covers or engine, but it is not.

2. Do I really need to find this tool to put in the seal? I recall another forum member using the old seal and a steering wheel puller.

3. I am in the go-cart stage. I think I should just pull the engine & trans out of the car, fix it and put it back in. I have read about guys who leave the engine & trans in the and just move the trans back 4-5" and reach in and fix it.

What do you guys think?


As always, thank you!
Rich

[ July 30, 2007, 12:40 AM: Message edited by: richcam1 ]
 

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Didn't change mine until I broke my T5 and switched to a Tremec. Pulled engine/tranny combo together. Piece of cake. Did it myself. Out and back in in one day.
I think it was a lot easier to separate and reattach the two on the garage floor than it would have been from underneath.

No special tools on the rear main. Did the sheet metal screw trick to get the old one out. Used the correct diameter socket to tap the new one in.

d



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Naga, I was hoping to hear from you! Thank you Sir for your valued opinion! My rear main seal is about 4 inches in diameter, I assume yours was smaller if you used a socket on it?

Any other opinions?

[ July 30, 2007, 01:27 AM: Message edited by: richcam1 ]
 

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First, be ABSOLUTLY sure it's the rear. Almost every oil leak ends up in that area. Evan a small front seal leak will look like a rear main.

There's a new piece of equipment available just for this. It injects a petroleum based vapor or smoke into the engine. Where the smoke comes out is the same place the oil comes out. A local shop will charge a few pennies to do this test. Well worth it in saved time and effort.
 

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Former Roadster Owner
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Go Kart stage, I'd pull it, but thats me.

But first make sure it is indeed the RMS, and not the intake manifold or valve covers (which it commonly is).

If this is a used crankshaft, do your self a favor and install a speedy sleeve on the crank. It adds a little meat to the crank were the rear main seal rides and will help your new seal NOT LEAK. If you want the part number for the sleeve and some more specific advice on installing a new seal (with the motor out) email me.

[email protected]

-dan

[ July 30, 2007, 04:12 AM: Message edited by: FordManDan ]
 

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Seal removal is easy with a sheet metal screw,screw driver or seal removing tool.
The install can be done with a round install tool,block of wood,socket,ect. Anything that can drive the seal in without distroting it.
Try and find the cause of it leaking before replaceing. Check for burrs on the crank,seal "cocked" when installed. Ding or depression inseal from bad install,ect.
Use a little assembly lube or grease on the seals surface that rides on the crank. Seals can fail under start up if no lube is used.
 

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Ditto on what the others have said, and I like to use aviation grade sealant between the seal and it's journal.
 

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Rich:
When you're ready to do this give me a jingle,I'll be happy to give you a hand.
Paul
 

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Having just gone thru the same process I will offer my two cents worth. I pulled the engine but left the transmission in the car. Pulling the engine took about two hours.Once the engine was out I also checked the bearings and discovered they were in just as bad a shape as the rear seal. Ended up pulling out the crank shaft and cam shaft and replacing all bearings. Pulled pistons and replaced rings. While down to the block had it boiled out and cleaned. I am pretty sure I have solved my oil pressure and slightly high water temperature problem. Seemed like a huge project but it was pretty easy. Get a decent book and one friend who thinks he knows what he is doing and go slow. I have never done it before and it took me two weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Using a paper towel I would trace the leaks. I had some minor leaking from the valve covers. So I fixed that and still get some drops from the bottom of the flexplate. Of course I cannot see in the bellhousing, so I am assuming it is RMS or flywheel bolts.

Thanks Paul, I will take you up on that!
 

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I would check that the oil is not over the full line on the stick,,and that the PVC valve is working properly,,and recheck the pan gasket,,may save you a lot of work,,,
 
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