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Discussion Starter #1
In a previous post on the same subject it was suggested I post pictures and a description of how I fabricated my rear firewall glove box. Here is a write-up I prepared and photos to compliment the words. It has worked out great on my car since my heater precluded installing a glove box that suited my needs so I came up with this alternative. I also added a push button switch and light inside the box. Hope this helps.
Bob Mac
FFR3981

I fabricated 4 sides of a “trapezoid” box (three seperate pieces of sheetmetal, 2 sides, 1 back and top) to mate with the rear trunk floor and rear firewall panel, fitting between my two inner roll bar posts, roughly 5” Deep on bottom, 2 ½ deep on top, 6” height and 10” Long. The hole in the rear firewall aluminum is 4.5"X8.5”. So the box is bigger than the hole that is cut in the rear firewall. the lip on the bottom keeps stuff from slidding out annd the the top lip is what the slatch paw catches to keep the lock functional.
See Photo 0410c, 0412c , 0333c
The sub frame is built up using 1/4 x 3/4" aluminum bar for the bottom and sides. The top sub frame is 3/16 X 1.0” bar. The main frame is cut out from 1/4" aluminum plate along with the door. To keep the door closed when the lock is in the open position I epoxy a 1/4" X .050 steel strip to the backside. Then I embedded, epoxy, magnets into the corners of the 3/16 sub frame. Photo 0385c The sub frame besides accommodating my door magne concept also accommodated the thickness of my dynamatt, sound proofing, techmat insulation and my carpet thickness. This sub frame can be eliminated if the single piece top frame was bolted to the rear firewall on top of the carpet, using the carpet for the door to rest against when closed.(so besure to cut the carpet to the side of the openning in the rear wall, not the hole size of the frame inside peremeter) see photo 0385c
To make door flush with the frame face I sandwiched some aluminum sheet stock between the top portion of the frame and sub frame, hence why I used 3/16” for the top sub frame. See my note above about the alternative frame approach. Hinges are marine chrome plated. I still need to add a small door pull to the face and finish polishing the frame and door. I used the knob from a sink drain pull I purchases at a plumbing supply store. For my design application the 1/2" total thickness works well with the padding and carpet thickness to keep the final product flush with one another. see photo 0409c, 0390c
I my original anal cheap design I cut the door and frame from a single piece of 1/4" aluminumn plate. This took too much time and tedious effort. I would suggest cutting or have cut from the aluminum supplier the door, and another piece for the frame. Certainly the interior piece you cut out becomes scrap, however I believe it would be a lot less tedious labor. I would finish the door edges to the dimensions desired and then overlay it on the frame piece and scrib around the perimeter. Then cut out the inside and finish leaving a small gap for the door to swing open. Then it was a matter of wet sanding and polishing the aluminum.












 

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When I finished car a few years back I just used the Shell Valley box and fabricated a door similar to yours but covered it in the carpet to hide it even better and blend in with the rear firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Joe, Thanks for noticing! I made the switch bezels from stainless steel fender washers that I drilled the hole larger to fit the switch threads and then polished. I bought the fender washers at a local fastner shop. Probabely McMaster-Carr carries them. http://www.mcmaster.com/
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 
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