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Discussion Starter #1
For you guys who have done the conversion, do you think it's worth the time and money? Is the difference that noticeable for a car that will just be a street car?

Thanks for any advice.
 

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893 Posts
I've done the swap from Fox disc drum to 94 Cobra disc disc and well worth it. It wont cost a arm and a leg either. I'm still manual and love kt
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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8,694 Posts
I went from rear drums to disk a year ago. I mainly did it because a sports car SHOULD have disks on all corners. I’ve been so busy that I haven’t driven it much since then, to be honest, and I’m more of a cruiser anyway.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,135 Posts
Oh yes, big difference. More brake response and grip. And with discs, you can tune the rear brakes with different pads
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,120 Posts
Oh yes, big difference. More brake response and grip. And with discs, you can tune the rear brakes with different pads
I think this is key. W/ drums you get whatever shoe compound you can find. Most that I have seen don't even say what the compound is. W/discs there is a world of pad compounds available.
 

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The fastest autocrosser I’ve seen, also tracks his car. And runs with drums on the back! For a street cruiser you’d be just fine. BTW... it’s Kleiner!
 

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Not a waxer
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11,553 Posts
For a street cruiser if you compare them to a typical OEM derived SN95 type rear disc setup drums offer plenty of stopping power---a few times in rapid succession---afterwards their performance will fall off. The downfall with drums is repeated hard stops because they do not dissipate heat as well which will lead to fade more rapidly than with discs. Also due to their self energizing characteristics drums do not modulate as well as discs. Until you really push the envelope farther than most prudent people will on the street you won't notice a significant difference in performance unless you're driving down a mountain. JMHO...

Jeff
 

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Junior Charter Member
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3,114 Posts
I've got the donor discs up front with Hawk pads and the stock drums in the back. This setup stopped the much heavier Mustang just fine and it does a good job on my MKII. I've thought many times about changing over to rear discs, but just haven't got around to it as I'm OK where I'm at. I don't race nor autocross, just street cruising.
 

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When I went from stock Mustang drums to Wilwood 4-caliper, there was an absolutely amazing, phenomenal difference, especially when stopping over and over and over.

The drums would work better when heated up a bit, but after that they smelled funny and worked worse.

I'd do it again for matters of safety.
 

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Rear drums work just fine on a street car. If you need better "shoes" Porterfield (and probably others) can put various/different friction materials on the shoes. Vintage racers have to do that to be legal. I had some on my MKII for awhile (Porterfield R4S). Later changed to SN95 disks just for the looks. Could tell almost no difference on the street. I also had them make some shoes for a 50 Chevy. Stopped pretty well. Was a bit aggressive/tough on 70 year old drums but it's not like I put thousands of miles on it either.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,120 Posts
Steve that is good info on Porterfield being able to reline shoes. I vaguely remember hearing that but never tried it. What I have found is that having rear brakes that actually work makes a tremendous difference in overall braking. That is why I like rear discs. My first rear disc setup was the common Mustang Cobra brakes. I started w/ Hawk HPS there as I already had them in the front. Then I learned about their HP+ compound and installed them. The 4th stop in the bedding procedure I locked the rears up. I went on to adjust the front to rear bias and found a really great result although the effort was still a bit higher than I wanted. Now I have the 2015 IRS w/ the stock brakes and HP+ on all 4. Fantastic breaking w/ just a little more effort than my Tacoma.
 
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