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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #1
My goal is not to have a shelf behind the seats. My goal is to allow the drivers seat to move rearward 2 or 3 inchs. Has anyone modified the 2 x 4 (not sure of size) by cutting in and rewelding. A notch so to speak of 10 to 12 inchs long. Of course sheet metal work also.. Thanks for any ideas.
Gary
 

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So, moving the bulkhead and rear lip back a little bit is really not that hard. And you could do it so it not really noticeable, too.

The problem is the floor. The wheel well intrudes into the passenger compartment a little bit at the floor. You would have to cut in to that as well. And that could severely limit the size tire you install.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What I am trying to accomplish is the standard or classic bucket seat can be leaned back a couple inchs. Right now up against bulkhead but at the base of bulkhead there is approximately 3 inchs of space. Wanting to not be so crowded up to steering wheel but to get more legroom. Do not want to modify wheel well for sure.
 

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If you are talking about the heavy cross piece that the roll bars are against I would not be happy cutting it. The upper light cross bar could most likely be modified without effecting the structure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After further inspection I agree. Not a very good idea. A bracket for the upper set of links to the pumpkin are welded right where I would cut out. Oh well, back to the drawing board. Thanks everyone for helping out. Gary
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Keep looking at that area. I remember one builder who moved the edge of the body back. He did a great job, in that if you had another FFR parked next to his you could see a difference. But just looking at his car you would never know. I think you could gain 1-1.5 inches just modding the body. My MkII frame is different enough in that area that I am not sure about modding the 3/4x3/4 tube but I 'think' you could maybe gain a little more if it could be moved.
 

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After further inspection I agree. Not a very good idea. A bracket for the upper set of links to the pumpkin are welded right where I would cut out. Oh well, back to the drawing board. Thanks everyone for helping out. Gary
I gave up on modifying the frame and bought Kirkey Classic Racing Seats. They buy you about 3" of legroom. You have to cut one notch in the seat shell to clear the 1" square tubing in front of the rear tire to gain that last little bit. Also drops your sight line 3 to 4 inches thru the windshield. I added a "gel" pad to the seat back and base I bought from Summit, and added 1" foam padding on the base for more comfort. And these are great for track days with the side bolsters.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for replying everyone. I know someone has done this mod to one degree or another, If it can be done someone has for sure from this group of why not's. The seat is probably the best and easiest solution. How is the comfort for long runs of 3-400 miles at a time? Thanks
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I have a similar seat from ultrashield and it is very comfortable.
Ultrashield by craig stuard, on Flickr
The advantage of the cover design is that it is very easy to mod it by sticking some foam in where ever you want it. I have an extra inch under my butt and an extra piece to give more lumbar support. I haven't done 300 miles but 3-4 hours is no problem. Something I have found that is not intuitively obvious, is that you don't need much padding in the seat back. As long as it is shaped correctly 1/2 inch does the trick.
 

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Thanks for replying everyone. I know someone has done this mod to one degree or another, If it can be done someone has for sure from this group of why not's. The seat is probably the best and easiest solution. How is the comfort for long runs of 3-400 miles at a time? Thanks
After playing with the extra foam in the seat cushion, I can drive for 6+ hours with no discomfort. I've driven from San Francisco to Huntington Beach 3 times, no problem. My only complaint is on hot days, the seats don't breathe very well (they only come in Vinyl from Kirkey) and get a bit hot. When finances permit I going to have the covered in perforated leather.

Oh, I have Sparco Sliders under both seats, Im 6'1" and have to adjust the seat forward about 1.5 inches so I can push the clutch in all the way. I did shim and mod the Wilwood Pedal Box so the clutch pedal is just touching the firewall when fully disengaged. I also moved the dash and steering wheel back 1.5" to gain more arm room. You have to modify the fiberglass body above and left of the steering wheel for hand clearance if you do this, it's too tight otherwise.
 

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