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Discussion Starter #1
Have five-lug drums on rear... Son ran down to local Advanced Auto parts and picked up a set of their "Wearever Silver" remanufactured brake shoes. Any reason I should seek another shoe brand for street use?
 

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I just installed some Porterfield R4S compound shoes and will be doing a track day at Portland International on Wednesday. I'll let you know what I think of them after my four 20 minute sessions.

[ September 12, 2005, 07:55 PM: Message edited by: Steve Powell ]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Brad & Steve.... I'm anxious to hear the results...
 

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I am also anxious to here results.I still need more rear brake and compound could be a solution or help.
 

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If street only use then you will be fine with what you have. Any track duty at all you need to upgrade. I also run Maxium shoes. I also have vented rear drums to help get the hot gases out and reduce rear fade.
 

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A tip for those of you that are running 4-lugs. The drums from a fairmont or zephyr wagon, 79-82 are 10" diameter as opposed to the mustang 9". They will bolt right on. and give a little better surface area. definately cheaper than discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well... if I were to go the Maximum route, is the Front/Rear upgrade kit @ $246 worth it for street use...?

"Reduces stopping distances by 12 to 15 percent! The next best thing to Baer Claws at an affordable price. This upgrade package includes Hawk brake pads (HB-263 HPS), MM High Performance Rear Shoes, MM Stainless Steel Caliper Sleeves, and MM Stainless Steel Brake Hoses (3-hose kit). The complete MM brake upgrade package produced an average stopping distance of 114 ft from 60 mph, with the shortest distance at 98 ft (Mustang Monthly, Sept. 1993). For more information, also see our article in Super Ford, July 1994.

Sounds like the $50 rear shoes is the most bang for the buck with standard mustang pads up front?

Buzz: I'm not familar with the vented drums. Is this something I can do myself? I have a new set of 5-lug FMS drums ...?

Sherrell
 

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Buzz drilled some holes in his drumms THe side, not the brake surface.... Im sure he will chime back in here later...

DONT FORGET to LOSE the stock proportioning valves.....

AND SERIOUSLY consider a booster.

READ, and REREAD the 300+ POST survey about brakes IF you are still deciding what to do.

earl
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, Earl. I printed out the survey thread this morning.

My current thinking:

1. 15" Halibrands are a definite.

2. I understand this limits me to stock Mustang rotors/calipers upfront. I've already made the 5-lug conversion in the rear (93 GT rearend with 3.55 gearing), so I'm going with Lincoln rotors up front.

3. I'm staying with rear shoes for present. Going with Maximum Motorsports HPRS shoes.

4. Jeep MC???

5. Tri-states brake lines?

The only thing I've done so far is install the rearend and the 5-lug conversion in back.

I'm open to suggestions...
 

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Originally posted by Sherrell:
Thanks, Earl. I printed out the survey thread this morning.

My current thinking:

1. 15" Halibrands are a definite.

2. I understand this limits me to stock Mustang rotors/calipers upfront. I've already made the 5-lug conversion in the rear (93 GT rearend with 3.55 gearing), so I'm going with Lincoln rotors up front.

3. I'm staying with rear shoes for present. Going with Maximum Motorsports HPRS shoes.

4. Jeep MC???

5. Tri-states brake lines?

The only thing I've done so far is install the rearend and the 5-lug conversion in back.

I'm open to suggestions...
IF you think about putting a booster, you will probably want to not use the jeep MC.. its so tall, that you cant get the lid off or fluid into it. THe best solution is one of the ford units with the removeable plastic reservoir.. replace the reservoir with the Mercury Villager Remote Reservoir. You can use the 93 or 94 cobra M/c or some of the stock mustang M/c's. My 90 donor had a removeable reservoir.

earl
 

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Sherrel,
As Earl said I drilled holes in the drum.
Lay the drum face down, you are looking at a bowl at this point. Use a 1/8 bit, drill a hole at 45 degrees to the drum face and the brake surface area, right in the corner so to speak. Next drill a hole 180 degrees opposite side, then 90 degrees to that, criss crossing side to side until you have holes about 1.5 inches apart the entire circumfrence of the drum. This mod helps remove hot gases the are generated during heavy repeated braking mostly seen at at track events. I actually see some brake dust build up on the real wheels after a weekend of tracking.
I did this several years ago along with the Maximum motorsports upgrades and good fluid. In open track events I experience no noticable brake fade. CMS in Kershaw is very hard on brakes.
Buzz
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Buzz:
This is great info. I had not heard of this mod but it makes sense in terms of scavaging the gas. What about wet-streets? Any problems? Are you running a brake booster?
 

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I think the drum would to be submirged to have ill effects
My brake set up is stock, no booster with the Maximum stuff and good fluid good pads and shoes. I like my brakes. You have to put your foot down but I can lock up and more important have good threshold control. No fade can heel toe pretty good which makes up for lack of rear disc.
I/m cheap and pretty happy about it.
Speed and whoa both cost money but if you do your research, match stuff correctly apply what you have correctly to get the most of what you've got, you can out run and out brake some pretty expensive cars. Well it helps if you can drive and I/m still working on that part. I seem to run out of talent from time to time.
Enjoy
Buzz
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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I have Maximum rear shoes,Hawk HP plus pads, stainless caliper bushings, Power slot rotors no holes, just slots, good fluid and the vented rear drums. One thing to keep in mind this combination does not function well until warmed up, the first couple of stops for the day are okay.These friction materials require heat for max stopping power. Once hot though brakes are very good,IMHO.
They can be a bit noisy and a little more brake dust. I you are going to drive any track events then you do need some upgrade over stock.
For street use only, I would add caliper bushing only.
Buzz
 

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Sherrell, I'm the guy who just did the Porterfield R4S pads and shoes. You ask for a report after my track day. Well...I'm real happy with the pads up front and I happy with the fact I got no noticable fade but I still don't have enough rear brake. So what else is new with most of these cars? The fronts will slide pretty easy now but the backs won't lock up at the same time. Quite a bit of brake dust after (4) 20 minute sessions but they are very quiet and the pedal feel is much improved over what I had. Rating from 1-10....about a 7. I've got stock 90 Fox front stuff and 87 9" rear drums, 15" TeamIII wheels and BFG's.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Steve,
Thanks for getting back to us....

Have you been following the brake survey mega thread here? A very high percentage of responders indicate they have brake balance problems with the fronts locking before the rears. To a first approximation, this is coming from the guys with the OEM brakes and very expensive aftermarket stuff. CobraEarl maintains the core of the problem is that we need to be running a brake booster. Per CE, if one runs a booster, a good set of pads up front on OEM calipers/rotors, the right valving, and good shoes in the back, the balance issue and the pedal force issue should dissolve and OEM equipment should do a very good job stopping these cars...

Have you tried the Maximum Motorsport shoes in back (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/hprs.asp)?
 

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Originally posted by Sherrell:
Steve,
Thanks for getting back to us....

Have you been following the brake survey mega thread here? A very high percentage of responders indicate they have brake balance problems with the fronts locking before the rears. To a first approximation, this is coming from the guys with the OEM brakes and very expensive aftermarket stuff. CobraEarl maintains the core of the problem is that we need to be running a brake booster. Per CE, if one runs a booster, a good set of pads up front on OEM calipers/rotors, the right valving, and good shoes in the back, the balance issue and the pedal force issue should dissolve and OEM equipment should do a very good job stopping these cars...

Have you tried the Maximum Motorsport shoes in back (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/hprs.asp)?
That is close to what I think, based on this thread, plus other related threads......Let me try better...

I think that these cars have a definite tendancy to front brake bias. because of the car the brakes came off of. And efforts need to be taken to overcome the bias to maximize your brakes.

If you leave the factory proportioning valve in place, the front bias can be EXTREME.

If you upgrade the front brakes without upgrading the rears, you will get EXTREME front bias.

Simply installing an aftermarket proportioning valve WILL NOT solve the front bias. (it cant)

I believe MOST folks will be MUCH HAPPIER with their brakes with boosters.... and to me, the survey backes this up..

I believe that spending money to upgrade the rear brakes or rear pads/shoes is money well spent to fight the front bias.

I believe the CNC front M/C is one of the best brake ideas to come up yet... to balance the natural front brake bias of these cars.

I believe that the perfect setup will have 3 COMPONENTS:
1. upgraded rear brakes,
2. Booster and
3. CNC M/C

I also think that a ffr can be built with the stock front brakes, Stock rear drums and stock BOOSTER and NO PROPORTIONING VALVE that Most folks will be Very Happy with. It will have some front bias, but for normal driving, will probably be OK.

BUT, they will be MORE HAPPY if they upgrade their rear shoes or even upgrade to TBird Rear Discs.

But, to me, a car with stock front brakes, stock rear shoes, stock proportioning valve and NO BOOSTER is gonna be a Misserable thing to stop.... even with the pedal mod.

hope this helps...

earl

[ September 16, 2005, 10:40 AM: Message edited by: CobraEarl ]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wonderful summary, Earl. Thanks!
Sherrell
 
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