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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did I read the manual correctly and the top of the radiater is only attached with 2 zip ties? It seems like it would be screwed or bolted to the 3/4" tube. (What are the short 3/4" tubes for that are welded to the bottom front of tube the radiater is mounted to?)
I know the bottom is held with zip ties until the body is mounted and the aluminum is installed around the radiator.
Ken
 

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The first problem is...you're going by the manual.....any where you see the word zip tie, add the word "temporarily, followed by screw, bolt, safety wire or clamp"

Bolt the radiator in, top and bottom. It should not be held by fiberglass or aluminum parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry about posting in the wrong forum. Thanks for moving it.
To independently mount the bottom of the radiator, how do I determine where it should be?
 

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The two zips ties are used to temporarily support the bottom of the radiator until the body goes on the chassis, and the nose radiator aluminum is installed. Zip tie the bottom of each side of the rad to the quick jack/nose mounting area. The 3/4" tube at the top of the radiator has the two short 3/4" pieces welded to it. These short pieces act as rivet pads for permanently mounting the radiator.
 

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Did the same as above. Used screws to mount top of radiator to the 3/4" rail. The reason for useing zip ties to "temp" mount/hold the bottom of radiator is you have no way of knowing it's final angle/tilt untill body is on. Once body on lowwer radiator aluminum secures the bottom of radiator.
 

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Frank....I ballparked my location by using the nose aluminum pieces then clamped the lower mount in place. Once the body is on, I final attach the lower mount to the frame.

- Rick
 

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I guess I did it backwards. I used the radiator side pieces as a template to set the angle of the rad, and bolt in the Levy lower rad support. Mounted the body about 6 weeks later. I did end up making new rad side pieces, but only because I mucked up the original ones drilling the holes for the pusher fans support. Also, it's a good idea to use some rubber insulation between the frame and the radiator. It will help to prevent chassis flex and vibrations from cracking the radiator.
 

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Hope these help Ken. I drilled through the two extensions on the top tube. I simply used the aluminum with rivets to hold the bottom in place, but the holes i drilled on the flange were very close to the actually radiator.
sorry i never got back in touch with you about picking up the bolts. With the car, interviews, and everything else that is going on it's just been nuts.



The zip ties you see in the pics are for my wiring-havent really made it around to removing them.




 
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