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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm pulling the donor engine tomorrow, and could use to hear from your experiences.

A local is parting out his '87 aot stang. The engine has 25k miles on the rebuild and he sold it to me, complete, for $650. The hitch is, I have to pull it. It's in a dirt backyard, on blocks. I know I need to jack the car up and put it on 4 jackstands for safety. There will only be two of us for the job. I could really use some advice and tips.
  1. How long should this take if I'm pulling the engine without the transmission?
  2. I can't find an engine hoist with big rubber wheels, dragging the engine hoist with engine through the dirt to get to my truck is going to be fun. Any suggestions?
  3. What should I use to attach the hoist to the engine? Straps or chain and bolts?
  4. Are there things I should take off, or just disconnect everything and yank it all at once?
  5. How should I transport this thing in my truck? I was told to set it on a tire without a rim so the pan fits in the center of the tire.
  6. Since this is going to happen all in the dirt, can I skip draining the oil until I get the engine on a stand in my garage?
  7. Finally, are there any special tools I should take besides the usual socket set, wrenches, braker bar, and a bfh?

Anyone on their way to sin city want to help? :D Seriously, thanks for your suggestions. I can't wait until it's sitting on the stand in my garage. Tomorrow's is going to be a great day.

-Robert
 

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My opinon only:

1. All stinking day.
2. You should be able to rent a hoist with wheels - I did. However, drag it through the dirt veeeery slowly with your truck, or find a buddy with a jeep and a winch. Have one guy walking with it to keep it balanced.
3. Almost anything. I used an old seat belt, knotted. Worked fine.
4. Don't forget all the stuff that's mounted to the fenders, like the coil, the egr valve, etc. There are a LOT of expensive parts not actually on the engine.
5. Makes sense to me. Tie it down well.
6. My engine still had some oil in it when it was put on the stand in my garage - didn't leak on my truck.
7. Battery drill, 1/4" sockets or nut drivers for all the little odds and ends, cutters for cables and wires that you just can't get to, a propane torch to heat bolts that just won't come loose, penetrating oil, a length of pipe to fit over your wrench handle for extra leverage.

Hope this helps. I think it will be a PITA, but it soulds like you've got a great engine for a great price.

All the best,
Tag
 

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If there's no way to get a truck or heavy-duty dolly back there, then one alternative is to use stout plywood pieces (4' x 8' x 3/4") cut in half to make to 4'x4' squares. The engine hoist is rolled from piece-to-piece to get it out. For this, lower the engine as much as possible to avoid tipping. If there's a gate, you may want to trim one of the pieces to 30" to lay through the gate. Maybe need some small wheel chocks, too, if the yard is uneven.

I'm sure others here have answers for your other questions.
 

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the fastest way to pull will be the same way for installed. pull it all as one unit with all accessories still in place. as for time, if the two of you have done some mechanics before i could not see it taking longer than about 1.5-2 hours in the conditions you speak of. bring a few plastic zip-lock bags and a marker to keep your bolts. also duct tape one around the tailshaft opening after you pull the driveshaft. you dont want all the ATF running into the ground.
 

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Bring a torch, some really GOOD QUALITY 12mm box end wrenches(thats pural! in case one breaks, I went through 3)
and a breaker bar for those driveline bolts (a floor jack under the breaker bar works wonders too). A BFH and bar for the stubborn header flanges. Those were the only irritating things for me. Oh, you have an engine hoist, right? ;)
 

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Brent B has a good point about the plywood, It worked great for me. Just make sure you put it in place before you start lifting the engine, cause it won't budge otherwise once you get some weight on it and those wheels dig into the ground.
 

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General observations based on spending too much time in scrapyards - not on 'Stangs in particular:

2) Drive truck to engine :confused: Failing that scout round the yard for a trolley. Don't drag it through the dirt - you'll make a horrendous mess of it, and you, and the scrappy will laugh at you (a lot).
3) Yes
5) Sounds fine, just make sure it's well tied down (and don't drop it on your chest, like a friend of mine managed :rolleyes: )
6) If you don't mind getting your truckbed oily
7) MAPP torch, cordless impact wrench if you have one, spare sockets in critical sizes.

Edit - Like what they said ^^ must refresh more often
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, guys. All great advice. The front end of the car is parked facing a wood fence. I've only got about 6 feet between the nose and the fence. I already pulled the rear-end, so moving the car is not an option - DOH!

I'll see if I can work with the seller to get my truck into his back yard so there's less hassle.
 

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Why don't you offer the owner $750 for the whole car and get a tow truck to take it to your house? Then you can strip it at your own pace. When your done with it sell the remaining parts. You could make back the $750. If not, be sure to put wood blocks under the jack stands to prevent it from tipping over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The cheapest donor I could find around here was about $3k and it was pushing 250k miles. This motor has 25K miles on it, which is the only reason I bought it. All in all, I've got about $900 wrapped up in parts from this guy. All the donor parts I didn't buy from the guy will be intentionally purchased new. Lastly, I don't have to listen to my wife or my home owners association moan about a junker in the yard. No carcass to ditch, either.

All-in-all, I think it will work out best for my situation and my build. Plus, since it's a Cali car, the parts are virtually rust free. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The donor engine is out! Time for
.

It took three of us 6 hours to pull it. I owe cobra5Laddict a huge thanks! I think he knew it would take 6 hours, but I went off and told my helpers 1-2 hours. If I told them it would take 6 hours, I'm pretty sure they would have told me to take a flying leap. Smart, very smart thinking. Of course, I can't pull that card again, but I shouldn't need to now.

Anyways, my digital camera took a crap, so I don't have any pics. Everything went as expected. We didn't have any major problems. In fact, we every bolt came out relatively easy. I was expecting some seized nuts and bolts, but none were. One of the exhaust header bolts was missing and another was the wrong bolt that someone tried to force in sideways.
It looks like they didn't get it in very far, so I may be able to run a tap through it to clean it up. We'll see.

Other than that, thanks for the advice. All is right today and I'm one happy dude with a very heavy engine on a stand in my garage. Cheers.
 
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