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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While troubleshooting what I thought was a noise in the bellhousing (I'm getting good at pulling my tranny), I accidentally left my dipstick pulled just bit bit out when I started my car. I noticed a loud wooshing noise there. Turns out I had about 9 inches of vacuum in my crankcase. If I take my oil filler cap off the engine dies. Intake vacuum tracked crankscase vacuum with engine RPM and if I relieved some of the vacuum by partially opening the oil filler hole, the vacuum in both would drop.

So we decided I had a leak from the lower intake to the crankcase. I pulled the lower and the gasket position looks pretty poor, I can imagine there was a leak:


I've read the old posts on intake install, it looks easy enough, I guess the guy who did this was careless.

The following shows an old gasket on top and the new gaskets underneath it. The old gasket has a center piece that could be popped out easily, but wasn't when they installed it. The new gaskets have holes in the middle. The intake, shown below, has a port where these holes are at. The heads have a port where those holes are and there's carbon deposit in it. What's the right gasket configuration?





Thanks!
 

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Charter Member
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668 Posts
The top gasket has the blockoff for the EGR installed. They look like Felpro 1250 intake gaskets. Are the replacements Felpro's for a stock application? They will not have the blockoff's for the EGR. Is this carb or EFI. I do not believe you will notice a difference installed or not. SOme say there is a performance gain ny blocking off the heat coming into the upper intake. I think they gain's would be small if any.
 

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The gaskets do look rather poor. I just did mine this week and I used 3M trim adhesive (sounds stupid don't it? Used it for years) to glue the gaskets to the head first so they wont shift while installing the intake. More important though I'd look for a PCV problem and definately replace the valve when going back together and make sure the hose is good. Lex
 

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I just noticed the Fuel line for EFI so that answers my question. I would just use the gaskets you bought and run a bead of rtv on the front and rear where the intake contacts the block and put a very light coat around the water jackets and put the on without the crossover blocked.
 

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What's a 'n00b'?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments. The engine is an EFI 302 crate engine straight from Ford. The gaskets are Felpro 90361 for a standard 5.0L. I'll keep an eye on the thread for a day before I do the install in case anyone has any important hints!
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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You can use the gasket with or withut the heat cross over blocked. For street car useing a gasket with the cross over open would be my choice. Cross over is sometimes blocked off with the idea it wil allow a cooler fuel charge in the manifold. Either way you would not feel a performance change but can hel drivability as engine is warming up.
When you install the new gaskets make a couple of studs to hold gasket in place(gasket glued to head) durring install. Take 4 5/16" bolts and cut off the heads making them studs. Use these in the 4 end holes where the intake bolts would go. Once manifold is set in place remove and replace with the regular bolts.
 

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section 8
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Uhh made in china????? Check and make sure the intake is flat at the sealing surfaces also check the upper to lower surfaces for flat .Check for hidden bolts, my first edelbeock performer efi had a bolt INSIDE the manifold that screwed in to the lower if you forgot it it would leak vacuum Bob
 

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Made in china hmmm? I would have the intake checked is it flat are the angles correct are the sides parralel etc. I have not had good luck with chinese engine parts. They are usually made of inferior metals and slipshod machining. Just my opinion no offense intended. I think I have a stock oem manifold in the garage let me know.
 

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I agree with checking for flatness.I think the studs are not needed. With the tops of the engines out in the open, setting the manifold on straight should not be a problem.
 
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