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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, thanks again to members on this great Forum of ours.....Finished installing the Powerdyne today , and , although not on the road yet , it seems to be running great...smooth as a baby's
backside....
If anyone is contemplating this add on , let me know , while it's fresh in my brain...I'll be happy to let you know what I had to modify to make it work.
Thanks also to Gordon Levy for his Forum , and telephone help...and parts help too. :cool:
 

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Mr. Barry,

Yup, seriously thinking about it.

I'm confused on several points.

Mounting details. What did you have to mod in the included brackets?

Alternator/bracket issues.

Did you keep Power Steering? Mounting?

Belts?

Are you stock? What is your engine setup?

I'd be interested in your true PSI with he 6lb pulley.

TIA
 

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Justa Member
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1,225 Posts
same here...what am I looking at?

Upgrades to Fuel, computer, etc.

Thanks
OJ
 

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The Traveler
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3,106 Posts
Well the new found power will begin the long upward or downward - depending on view point for even more power!

Gordon is great for listening and getting you the right stuff to install these with! His recommendations and parts have allowed me to use a 9# boost on my stock block, at all the road courses, miles, auto-x and still the engine has great compression!

The only real mod that everyone has to deal with is the headers. Because the headers point the other direction the flange on the headers touches and interferes with the bottom of the bracket that Powerdyne uses to mount the Air pump and alt. There is lots oa material there so a grinder on the header and or the powerdyne bracket fixes the problem.

Everyone will also end up modifing the passenger F aluminum panel. You will have to cut it for the blower head. I pop rivited some rubber cut from an inner tube to the inside of the fneder to keep water, etc from splashing in.

Other install mods are some have a problem with the blower head getting in the way of the frame member. In my case I tried different motor mounts till the head cleared (ended up using the poly mounts). The other solution to the head problem is to turn it down one bolt hole to allow it all to clear.

As for fuel mods, etc. Powerdyne says you can run the 6# boost without them. And their kit does not come with any. I see many opinions on various forums regarding the 6# boost. Does it need a fuel system upgrade or not. There is no discussion on if a 9# boost does - every one agrees that it does. Me I listen to Gordon. If he says upgrade the fuel system, I'd do it.
 

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Official Member of the Unofficial "First 500 Club"
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I just finished my Vortech S-trim install and it does require some modification to the mounting bracket as well. A switch to the 4-into-4's would eliminate the problem though. I had to re-clock the volute slightly, which was very easy. There is no aluminum trimming necessary. Overall I would say it was a pretty easy install. If you are going totally stock (no injector, intank pump, MAF meter or ignition upgrades) you could have it on and running in a weekend. I would say it is much easier than the heads, cam, and intake upgrade many people do and it might just be the same amount of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well...now from the "horses mouth"..
The first thing was to change the 88lph stock fuel
pump to the BBK 255lph pump...(I did not change the size of the fuel lines)...In addition , I also added an Aeromotive adjustable fuel regulator and glycerine-filled pressure gauge (the gauge comes straight out of the regulator with a 1/8"pipe thread male/female nipple (about two inches long)..this is easily visible behind the throttle body)...For additional saftey , I added Vortech's adjustable boost retard module...made to hook directly to the Mustang ignition...only had to trim a few wires.
The bottom of the Powerdyne bracket was cut off just above the flange on the stock exhaust manifold....(Since I am using the air pump , I also made a bracket to replace the lower pump mounting hole that I cut off)
I did not want my alternator in the water , so I purchased the Breeze relocator kit...this really is a breeze to mount!....
The blower had to be "clocked" one mounting hole to the left , and the bottom of the "C" mount had to be trimmed off (next to the bottom hole) , to allow this.
The "F" panel was step-cut to fit the body of the blower...the piece that was cut away , was re-attached to cover the cut-away portion , but with a much smaller oval cutout.
A small aluminum bracket was made of bent 1/8" aluminum , to replace the top mounting point for the front passenger-side splash panel....this bracket was riveted to the top 3/4" frame member.
The air cleaner supplied with the Powerdyne was mounted along with the Mass Air Flow sensor , pointing backwards to a point about 4 inches from the passenger side firewall. (cooler air should be available here , while still being able to remove and clean filter)...
I also fabricated a new , longer connecting intake and pressure hose (out of old Mustang breather parts), to allow for more distance from the intake (due to clocking the blower).
Finally , a slightly shorter blower drive belt had to be purchased.....The cooling and air pump hoses were modified as needed....but very little.
Powerdyne supplied the bent radiator tube to replace the straight pipe , supplied by FFR. ;)

Any questions?
 

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If you have any pics, please post.
 

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The Traveler
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I have cats on my car. Not a problem. The clearance problem is with the very end of the headers and it's more if you are using after market headers, less if you use the stock Mustang headers.
At the end of the headers is the large flat plate that you bolt the J pipe or cats to. The diameter of that flat metal is just enough to cause interferance with the Powerdyne bracket. Grind some off the metal, a little off the bracket and it fits ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you are moving the alternator , and/or not using the air pump , you can trim quite a bit of the Powerdyne mounting bracket from the bottom...so no interference with the headers at all...Even if you are using the air pump you trim enough to miss the header flange...but you have to relocate the alternator to the driver side. :D
 
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