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Discussion Starter #21
I have not seen anything that thin, that's why I suggested a relatively simple change that would widen the opening and allow readily available weather stripping. Moving the outer angle to the outer surface of the run channel would add 1/8" to the width. It might also allow the window to be removed easily. My power window operators use bolted clamps with rubber padding to grasp the bottom of the window, so only the glass comes out and nothing else.

Dave,
Great idea! Yes, moving the outer top rail, outside of the U-channel should both allow the window to be installed with the frame in place and more space for a seal that would keep water out. I have ordered this flocked rubber window scraper seal and will try it!

 

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Nice drawing! What CAD software are you using? I used to make a lot of CAD drawings and program CNC mills and lathes, when I worked in a nuclear weapons manufacturing plant. That's been quite a few years ago. I've thought about buying some software for home use.

Let us know how the new seal works out.

Here's another solution, but it involves custom machined parts. Doesn't looked like the seals are flocked. See post #47.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/454977-cardifkid-s-33-build-706-a-3.html

I've seen something similar done on hardtop doors, but I think the seals were just whisker strips made for interior use. Many hot rods are trailer queens that just have to look nice and not function.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Nice drawing! What CAD software are you using? I used to make a lot of CAD drawings and program CNC mills and lathes, when I worked in a nuclear weapons manufacturing plant. That's been quite a few years ago. I've thought about buying some software for home use.

Let us know how the new seal works out.

Here's another solution, but it involves custom machined parts. Doesn't looked like the seals are flocked. See post #47.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/454977-cardifkid-s-33-build-706-a-3.html

I've seen something similar done on hardtop doors, but I think the seals were just whisker strips made for interior use. Many hot rods are trailer queens that just have to look nice and not function.
Catia. My first attempt was a copy of cardifkids stainless bars. They looked great! I machined one up, then I cut my window slot and concluded this will never work with mine due to the fiberglass thickness variation (.2-.5" thick). Also it did nothing to help guide the glass or keep held securely both up or down.
 

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Catia. My first attempt was a copy of cardifkids stainless bars. They looked great! I machined one up, then I cut my window slot and concluded this will never work with mine due to the fiberglass thickness variation (.2-.5" thick). Also it did nothing to help guide the glass or keep held securely both up or down.
I met with Dan Ruth last Sunday, and he recommended using a 2" sanding pad on an angle die grinder to smooth out the fiberglass inside the door and make it a more uniform thickness.
Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have updated the power window frame design based on feedback. The Rev. B drawing was sent via email; here are the changes:

Added waterproof seal to top outside rail
Changed P/N for the flocked rubber glass run channel
The bottom rail was changed to a 3/8 x ½ U-channel
The ¼-20 screws were replaced with #10-32
Slot was added to the rear bracket

 

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Hi Tim,

Well it's a year later and i am just starting the process for your super slick window install. I have the drawings (i believe the V.2 one) however when i look at this thread all of the pictures are gone. Photobucket strikes again!

Is there any way i can get see the pics again?

You could email them to me at [email protected] or upload them to google photos and share them

Thank you sir!
 

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lowntubd I recommend you PM tcollins.. he was kind enough to send PDF's to everyone who asked. But I wouldn't rely on him finding this thread, but a PM might notify him..
 

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Hi Tim,

Well it's a year later and i am just starting the process for your super slick window install. I have the drawings (i believe the V.2 one) however when i look at this thread all of the pictures are gone. Photobucket strikes again!

Is there any way i can get see the pics again?

You could email them to me at [email protected] or upload them to google photos and share them

Thank you sir!

Check out this thread. It has ways to fix the PhotoBucket issues.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/619338-viewing-photos-photobucket.html?hotlinkfix=1515689859648
 

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Dont post photobucket photos

If anyone has a photo to show in this forum, don't do it...! please upload the photo from your camera or photo shop etc. directly to the discussion forum. Makes it a lot easier for everyone. Sometimes photo bucket photos are seen if you have downloaded the app/add on, but even then it may not work. I have both apps for chrome and firefox, but this thread/post does not display the photo bucket pics for me as well. So the informative photos of the electric window install are not displayed just as others have indicated. There is info on how to upload photos in this forum ( attach a file ) or other wise ask the powers to be who have done this.
Thanks
 

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Does anyone else have these power window drawings that could be sent to me? I sent a PM to Tim but it appears he hasn't been on the forum in a long time..... It would be much appreciated!
 

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I have them, not sure how to send but try this:
Let me know if it worked,
Tom
Awesome, that worked! Thank you. One other question, did you use the drawing on page 2 in the lower left hand quadrant of the file you sent me? And if yes, do you have anything with a better resolution?
 

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Be careful with your measurements. Depending on where exactly your door bars line up you have to vary the height of the verticals and the actual window lift mechanism. Don't use Tim's dimensions but cut them long until you fit to height of the door top.
 
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