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When I went to install my power windows, I ran into many of the same problems as others; the felt supplied with the kit will not work, the double wall fiberglass on the door top was separated and flimsy, etc. I found many improvements on the forum, however none of them seemed to meet the look and robustness that I was seeking. So I came up with this. I haven’t found anyone else with this solution, so thought I would share because it worked out very well.

The idea was to make a lightweight aluminum frame that connects to the steel door structure. I was really surprised at how economical and simple this was to make…all materials can be found at McMaster Carr or your local hardware. If anyone is interested, I created a cad drawing which includes a door top template and complete bill of material.







 

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Great work! I had to do something similar to get the power windows to work on my '37 Oze. One issue I had is the most common fuzzy, flexible run channels sold for hot rods are 5/8" wide and all I could find for aluminum channel was 3/4" on the inner width. I solved that problem by adding a 1/8" thick aluminum filler strip to the channels I used. I must say that I never looked for 3/4" wide flexible run channel. The 5/8" is apparently what fits old cars.

To really work properly, you should have a true weather seal at the top of the door, on the outside, that will keep at least 90% of the water out of the inner door. I managed to bond the aluminum angle to mount this weatherstrip, to the inside of the door, so nothing shows. My vertical run channels are not attached to the upper angle for mounting the sill weatherstrip. Having bolt heads at the top of the channel won't work if you want to seal the entire length of the sill.

With a hardtop, the fuzzy channel doesn't need to be flexible, but with doors that have a window frame, it must flex easily to go around the upper window frame area. It must run continuously from the bottom of the window, around the upper frame and back down the the bottom of the window.

Glass Run Channel

I used this sill weatherstrip at the top of my window opening.

Sill Weather Strips

The sill whisker strips are for the inside only. The only thing that I did not like about these was the metal back side that was not flat - it makes gluing a bigger challenge.

http://www.haganauto.com/product_p/doswhsk.htm
 

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hide it?

T;
Very nice design, well thought out and implemented.
Personal taste question;
Any way that could be shortened just enough to keep the top angle inside the door instead of what appears to be laying on top of the fiberglass door ?
Thanks for the pics
DB
 

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To put under top looks hard because the under side of mine is not the same thickness . So maybe cut top of door to fit aluminum frame, then glass on inside of door?
 

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Classey Window channel

Tim: KISS Keep it simple stupid !
You did it Buddy! Nice and Well Done my Friend!
I wish I had thought of it in that manner!
I am sure I will continue to sell a lot of our simple rear window guide but your design is the Bomb!
Great Job!
Thanks for sharing!
Dr. Ruth
 

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Power Window Installation

I have the same Issue with the weather Striping. Started to remove some of the material in the Window slot so the Weather Stripping would fit - The Fiberglass was separated most of the length of the window. Been considering how to come up with a solution and I like yours. You said you had drawings and bill of material for the fix. I would Sure like to have a copy if Possible. Is it something you can email? If so My Email Address is [email protected]. Please Advise.

Mike Gribben
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When you go to install the window frame, use a couple squeeze clamps to hold up the glass as shown here. The glass with the bracket attached must be installed to the frame before loading into the door, then the bottom is installed. You can see you have plenty of hand room to bolt up the bottom brackets.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
The ends are not perfect and I haven't yet found a good solution yet. Before I do final assembly after paint, I'm considering welding a small piece to the U-channel. However you can't hardly notice with the door closed due to the hard top overhang, especially in the rear. If anyone has an idea to improve, please share.



 

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What if you notched the top aluminum angles( make them a little longer) to cover the upright end aluminum? But to be honest it looks good the way it is.
This would really be great if the unit could be welded together instead of bolted. I can only steel weld dont have aluminum weld (tig). I think if after all was perfected to fit your particular car I would remove and have it welded.
Kenny
 

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It looks like you’ve used some of the same materials that I did for the metal run channels in my car. I used 1/16” thick channel with an inside width of ¾” and ¾” aluminum angle of the same thickness along the top edge of the door. Closing off the small gap at the back could be done with firm neoprene (like gasket material) that can be bought is many different thicknesses. A softer strip of black foam weather strip would also work.

As a veteran of four power window installs on fiberglass doors, I think your bigger problem is not having a proper water sealing weather strip all along the outer sill. When you wash the car, you’ll get a lot of water inside the door. If the material you’re using is just felt, it will get wet and stay wet for a long time. Companies like Soffseal or Steele rubber may have a product that will work, but it should have a flocked coating on the rubber, or the window won’t go up and down smoothly. Soffseal SRF143 is a fuzzy strip for windows, but it’s probably only intended for the inside, where it won’t see any weather. I bought a similar product from Hagan.

http://www.haganauto.com/product_p/doswhsk.htm

If the angle along the top of the door on the outside was attached so it was lapped over the outside of the vertical channel, the width between the two angles should be ¾” and there would be enough room for a sealing weather strip. A ¾” wide top opening is just enough to accommodate the Hagan exterior weather strip on the outside and an SRF143 strip on the inside.

It’s normal for hardtop windows to be removable, without having to remove any of the metal run channels or weather stripping. I assume that the metal clamp at the bottom of the window is too thick to allow that. Making the width between the channels wider and using an exterior weather strip, shaped like a shallow V might fix that issue too. You can see the Hagan weather strip at the top of my door. The aluminum angle was bonded inside the door.

 

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I believe that I have now sent emails to everyone who requested. If I missed you, please make sure that you gave me your email address and remind me again, thanks!
PM sent.
 

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Power window frame

Thank you for your sharing of your design.....please check your pm for my request......FX
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dave,

Thanks for your reply and insight. Yes this design can certainly be improved and that's why I shared it! I'm a DYI guy with no power window installation experience and my primary objective was too strengthen the doors because they fell apart when I cut the window opening. I agree 100% with your comments regarding sealing, I just haven't yet found a thin enough seal to fit in the space that I have to work with. I did try a uncoated rubber seal like others have suggested and there was too much drag on the glass. a 3/16 thick, self adhesive flocked rubber stip would be ideal...have you ever seen this?
 

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Dave,

Thanks for your reply and insight. Yes this design can certainly be improved and that's why I shared it! I'm a DYI guy with no power window installation experience and my primary objective was too strengthen the doors because they fell apart when I cut the window opening. I agree 100% with your comments regarding sealing, I just haven't yet found a thin enough seal to fit in the space that I have to work with. I did try a uncoated rubber seal like others have suggested and there was too much drag on the glass. a 3/16 thick, self adhesive flocked rubber stip would be ideal...have you ever seen this?
I have not seen anything that thin, that's why I suggested a relatively simple change that would widen the opening and allow readily available weather stripping. Moving the outer angle to the outer surface of the run channel would add 1/8" to the width. It might also allow the window to be removed easily. My power window operators use bolted clamps with rubber padding to grasp the bottom of the window, so only the glass comes out and nothing else.

Is the vertical channel you're using 3/4" on the inside or outside? I used a product that I got from home depot that's meant to be used as a metal cap over the edge of 3/4" plywood or MDF, so it's 3/4" across the inside. They also carry the thin angle in 3/4" and 1".

My doors are also one piece. On the inside, one area is too narrow to allow a 3/4" angle to be bonded inside, so I built up the inside of the door with Bondo hair to create a mounting surface for the inner whisker strip. After all that work I figure out that there's no way I'm ever going to get the whisker strip glued in place without making a big mess with the glue. Fortunately I have framed windows and there seems to be no need for the inner whisker strip. The run channels all around keep the windows tight and rattle free.
 
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