Yeah, lower polished stainless coolant line is a custom piece. When GP Headers made my headers they also made the coolant line. I am not sure they do much custom work anymore. Great guys.
@SCracer: Amen on the non-sport rack sir. Chased twitchiness and scary steering for a couple of years ...switched to non-sport rack, and what a difference. Pleasure to drive.
I ran for a while without it, went to my first Autocross and it (as I suspected it would be) was too challenging in manual mode. I installed the pump and have never regretted it. Some folks have installed a valve to bypass some of the pressure.
I can’t speak for all types of pumps but the SN95 pump with remote reservoir used with Ford hydroboost has a fitting on the side with a spring inside as part of the output pressure regulator. Remove the spring and cut one coil off (or slightly more) if memory serves. This reduces the pressure thus the assist effort on the steering and brakes. There were several posts on this in the 2003-2005 timeframe. It works and it’s simpler than the aftermarket heights valve bypass installation.
I can’t speak for all types of pumps but the SN95 pump with remote reservoir used with Ford hydroboost has a fitting on the side with a spring inside as part of the output pressure regulator. Remove the spring and cut one coil off (or slightly more) if memory serves. This reduces the pressure thus the assist effort on the steering and brakes. There were several posts on this in the 2003-2005 timeframe. It works and it’s simpler than the aftermarket heights valve bypass installation.
So the verdict is clear, PS all the way. The question is how to modulate the line pressure. Cut the relief spring (de classe IMHO) or use a Heidts valve. Cutting the spring is a one time thing (more or less) and if you get it wrong you are stuck with what you got. The Heidts Valve is adjustable to your preference and conditions.
If I was building today, I would seriously look into electric. The kit from epowersteering is $745. That is pretty reasonable. Dial it in on the fly without unbuckling. Not sure of the quality or reviews, just putting it out there.
Newbie here. Just picked up a project roadster that's been partially-assembled but still has a ways to go. It's got a power steering rack from a 94 I was told. I don't plan on tracking the car. Most likely it'll just be a weekend cruiser. It doesn't have a power steering pump on the engine so I guess the last owner wasn't planning on it. That seems odd to me but maybe not on these cars? I realize they're light, but are they easy to steer without it? TIA
I finished my build in 2015 with oversized front tires and no power steering. I had it professionally aligned. I noticed that it felt very twitchy, easily following every contour of the road. That can be disconcerting with a short wheelbase car that weighs 2000 pounds and has about 450 hp. Of course in parking lots I needed to do more arm exercises to handle that. I know that if I went to narrower front tires it would help, but I didn't want to do that. So, I put on hydraulic power steering. It did transform the car. It feels solid on the highway at all speeds and is very easy to drive slowly with no significant loss of feel. I recommend it. If you're going racing...not too sure. Talk to others, but I'd say you can't go wrong.
So the verdict is clear, PS all the way. The question is how to modulate the line pressure. Cut the relief spring (de classe IMHO) or use a Heidts valve. Cutting the spring is a one time thing (more or less) and if you get it wrong you are stuck with what you got. The Heidts Valve is adjustable to your preference and conditions.
I have unusually wide front tires and they are fine on the road, but they track every detail. Tried a few alignment tricks, but not much help. When a car this short and powerful feels twitchy, I'll take any fix I can get. But they're all a bit different.
Started off with the regular Ford PS System and 5.0 front motor dress, street Fox Mustang alignment settings.
The Ford systems could not handle any revs, everything blew up constantly. I then used the GM pump, brackets and stuff from Jones, varied pulley sizes, worked on alignment settings, and used the slower ratio rack, so the car was not as nervous. Admittedly after alot of trying things and laying back the caster, it worked well, I was happy.
New Motor with electric water pump changed the front motor dress completely, so I decided to try the EPAS from a Saturn View. Big project, and lots of experimentation, but I'm happy with it. I can vary the amount of assist, so both parking and putting around is easy with more assist, and on the track, I barely have any. Again with a manual slower rack. Also alot of experimenting with alignment settings, but it's quite good now. Only real negative of the EPAS is you do loose some road feel to the steering wheel due to the EPAS unit.
I recently had a chance to play with the saturn EPS that a friend installed on his nasa car. His comments were the assist can go so high its silly and the feedback was numb. I personally haven't tried my own car but I have the 15:1 power rack with the linear 2000 cobra R tbar and a KRC pump. It will be a while until I can say how well that works in the FFR. I know it works in the mustang.
I have hydroboost on an SN95 rack. I drove someone else’s car with a manual rack about a year ago. I know I’m in the minority here, but if I ever build another roadster, I’m going manual steering and brakes. I like the higher effort steering and direct feel. Plus it looks so much cleaner under the hood.
I have hydroboost on an SN95 rack. I drove someone else’s car with a manual rack about a year ago. I know I’m in the minority here, but if I ever build another roadster, I’m going manual steering and brakes. I like the higher effort steering and direct feel. Plus it looks so much cleaner under the hood.
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