It's basically pretty straightforward: The 3/4" frame tube nearest the master cylinder will be in the way of pretty much every brake booster. The tube needs to be cut and reattached at a lower point to clear the booster or you need to get Whitby's kit that does the hard stuff for you. The other problem is that once you get the booster on there, you have to get to the reservoir to fill the M/C which, if you have a standard M/C, is right under the fender. Again, Whitby's kit is the answer with remote reservoirs. There are DIY options for this as well, including the Quest/Villager Minivan remote M/C.
Stick around and you'll get more info than you can likely stand.
[ October 18, 2007, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: Techno Tim ]
I used all the parts from a 90 mustang. M/c,booster,and resevior. I have a remote res. but have not installed yet. You can still fill the fluid by useing a large syringe or turkey baster,ect.
I welded the frame mod but easy way is the Whitby frame mod kit. They also sell a complete power brake kit that includes all parts needed.
The mounting holes in the pedal box need to be slightlly enlarged to bolt up the booster.
Lower steering bearing mounts inside foot box instead of outside.
Need to space booster off pedal box 1/4" or so.
Not involed at all and worth the effort.
Yes... manifold vacuum source will work...If you have a vacuum tree to tap from, that will work fine , and you will still have other "branches" to add vacuum accessories later.
If running a "cam" motor, you will need a vacuum reservoir.
Here's my frame mod. No welding required. I cut it and pushed down the tube as did Stinson Pilot (above) then made a mending plate to tie the cut end to the original. That tube only functions to hold the F-panel.
A forum community dedicated to Factory Five owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, conversions, modifications, troubleshooting and drivetrain. We discuss MK4, GTM, 818, Type 65 coupe, roadsters, and more!