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Senior Charter Member
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650 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can someone explain in detail using small words(lol)how to do the power brake mod,and show some pics if possible?

johnny
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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1,345 Posts
It's basically pretty straightforward: The 3/4" frame tube nearest the master cylinder will be in the way of pretty much every brake booster. The tube needs to be cut and reattached at a lower point to clear the booster or you need to get Whitby's kit that does the hard stuff for you. The other problem is that once you get the booster on there, you have to get to the reservoir to fill the M/C which, if you have a standard M/C, is right under the fender. Again, Whitby's kit is the answer with remote reservoirs. There are DIY options for this as well, including the Quest/Villager Minivan remote M/C.

Stick around and you'll get more info than you can likely stand. :D

[ October 18, 2007, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: Techno Tim ]
 

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Premium Member
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10,474 Posts
Here' mine. I just cut the tube and bent it down. Still need to weld it.

Mustang booster with Merc Villager MC.
 

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Tool Collector
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6,608 Posts

Here is the frame mod I did to make the 94 booster fit. Note the size of the hole for the booster. It needs to be opened up quite a bit.
 

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The Greek
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3,260 Posts
Here is the way I did it. I have no welding tools so I just installed the way the kit comes.
Cut and bolt.



Ignore the holes you see on the left side. BOOBOO! :D

Oh!! same setup as above.
 

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Premium Member
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3,649 Posts
Besides all the advice above, you will have to mount the steering shaft bearing on the inside of the bulkhead (assuming you have a MKIII). One more piece of advice - get the Whitby Kit.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
I used all the parts from a 90 mustang. M/c,booster,and resevior. I have a remote res. but have not installed yet. You can still fill the fluid by useing a large syringe or turkey baster,ect.
I welded the frame mod but easy way is the Whitby frame mod kit. They also sell a complete power brake kit that includes all parts needed.
The mounting holes in the pedal box need to be slightlly enlarged to bolt up the booster.
Lower steering bearing mounts inside foot box instead of outside.
Need to space booster off pedal box 1/4" or so.
Not involed at all and worth the effort.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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650 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks alot this clears it up for me but one more question, were does the vac hose go to thats coming from the brake booster?

sorry for the questions but Im learning :D

johnny
 

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Premium Member
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10,474 Posts
So are most of us. That's whats great about this forum. Lots of experience on tap.

Vacuum can come from the base of the carb or a tap off the manifold.
 

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Premium Member
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2,056 Posts
so the obvious question...why hasn't FFR made the necessary changes to the frame so those that are not handy with a torch don't f it up?
 

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729 Posts
I just received the Whitby kit and it's a really nice piece...very straight forward with simple instructions. It's only $45....well worth the price.
 

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Premium Member
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6,413 Posts
Yes... manifold vacuum source will work...If you have a vacuum tree to tap from, that will work fine , and you will still have other "branches" to add vacuum accessories later.
If running a "cam" motor, you will need a vacuum reservoir.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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8,694 Posts
Here's my frame mod. No welding required. I cut it and pushed down the tube as did Stinson Pilot (above) then made a mending plate to tie the cut end to the original. That tube only functions to hold the F-panel.

 
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