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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's what I've put together so far. Does anyone see any holes in it?

thanks
brad
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Powder Coating FAQ

Items required:

1) Powder coating kit ($69.99)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42802

2) Infrared Gas Heater w/ ODS and Piezzo ignition ($64.99)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38385

3) Powder coat paint of your choice ($9.99 ex, black is shown in the link below)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43130

4) Safety goggles and appropriate respirator
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4534

5) Metal wire and other misc. components to make a metal hanging stand

6) Epoxy / Paint remover (and appropriate chemical protection gloves)

7) Air compressor

8) Fire Extinguisher

Assemble a metal hanging stand. Make sure not to use wood except for your base. Be sure that the stand is sturdy and will not fall over.

Clean the metal item to be powder coated thoroughly with epoxy or paint remover (make sure to wear appropriate gloves). Using metal wire, hang the metal item to be powdered on your metal stand. Use an air attachment in conjunction with the air compressor and blow off any possible remaining contaminants on the metal item.

Note: if you are powdering a lighter colored powder (ie red, white, yellow, etc) if there are burn marks or other dark marks on the metal, they may show through. If there are a lot of marks on the metal you are planning to powder coat, I’d suggest testing a small area to see how it turns out. Powder coating is not fun to remove after it’s been cured to the metal object.

Place the appropriate colored powder into the powder coater kit’s plastic jar. Screw the jar onto the powder coating device. Hook the powder coating device up to the air compressor. The air compressor should be set at 15 PSI. Attach the black alligator clip (grounding clip) to one of the rails on the metal hanging stand you built.

Note: If you are really anal, you can test connectivity between the rail on the hanging stand and the metal object you are about to powder coat.

Make sure you have the appropriate safety equipment on. Hold the trigger on the powder coater and adjust the flow to the desired amount. Keep the powder coating gun at least 2 inches AWAY from the metal device.

Warning: I actually got the gun too close to one of my f-panels. A spark ignited and the f-panel caught on fire. BE CAREFUL!

Coat the metal object thoroughly making sure you have all exposed areas evenly covered. If there are lumps after you have sprayed, I’d suggest using your compressor and a “blow” accessory to remove the powder coating lumps from the object. After that has been completed, re-apply the powder to the object.

Once the object has been adequately coated with powder, it’s time to fire up the propane heater. Turn on the propane heater to the low setting (should be 7500 btu’s). Wait a couple minutes for the unit to warm up. If you are curing (aka cooking) a large piece of metal, start at the bottom of the piece of metal and work your way up. Place the propane IR heater approx ½ to ¼ inches in front of the metal object. Make sure not to touch the metal object with the propane heater as that will disrupt the nice spread of powder on the metal object. Watch the metal object closely; it should start to change from a dull powder into a very shiny, almost liquid like substance. If smoke starts to come from the piece of metal, it is getting over cooked. Remove the heater immediately and place it on a different spot on the metal object if it is large (or if the object is completely cooked, you’re done with the heater). For large objects, keep moving the propane heater horizontally, until the object is complete cooked at the bottom, then gradually move the propane heater up, and then move along the horizontal again. Keep moving the propane heater in this fashion until the object is complete cooked. The object should be smooth, shiny, and glossy when it is properly cooked. Make sure to leave the object hanging from the metal rack and give it enough time to cool down before you attempt to move it.

Safety is extremely important. Please remember you are dealing with hot metal objects, a high voltage powder coating device, and powder floating in the air. Use common sense, wear your protective gear, and follow the safety directions that are included with the powder coating device.

Enjoy!
-Brad (aka PowderCoatingKing)

Disclaimer – Please use the above instructions at your own risk and under the proper supervision with the correct safety precautions. I can not be held liable for any damages or complications arising from the above directions.

[ August 16, 2002, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: PowderCoatingKing ]
 

· Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sounds good bill. let's have the folks poke a few holes at it and i'll finalize it over the weekend.

-brad
 

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OK, here's a question - when do you move the heater to a new section? Do you move it as soon as the powder has gone shiny or leave it there for a period of time afterward the powder goes shiny?
 

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I just started my adventures in powder coating today. I am mostly doing small pieces which will fit in a toaster oven that I got for $10 at Goodwill. When I read the instructions (yeah, I know, I wimped out right away) on the jar of powder I got from Eastwood it mentions a flow out at 450 degrees and a cure cycle at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. How is the cure part of the cycle accomplished with the infra-red heater?
 

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Great job!

This would also be nice in the FFCars Magazine section with some pictures. I'm interested in doing some powdercoating, some pictures of your setup and various procedure steps would help me before my 1st attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did the initial spraying outside until I get the hang of it. I do recommend doing it in a well ventilated area (such as a garage with the door open).

Ed/Fred - It takes a while to get the feel of how long to leave the heater on the object. You dont want it to start smoking as that is essentially starting to "burn" the powder coating and you will get a silvery black spot. You do want to leave it on there long enough so it has time to cure. How long you leave it on the spot is directly proportional to how close the heating unit is to the object. Dont get impatient and put the heater on the high setting as that will cook it too fast and the powder coating will not be as effective and adhere to the metal properly. After you do a few pieces of metal, you'll get the hang of it. I have posted a bunch of pictures under other topics:
http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005972

in action - on the home-made stand:
http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005728

just the f-panels (one side black, one side red...that was fun!)
http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005763
 
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