Here are some pro's and cons
Can be touched up if you need to modify frame
Looks pretty good
Stops rust even if you scratch the frame
Takes a bit of time to apply
Never looks like sprayed or powdercoated
Is fairly difficult to apply from what I have heard
Tough as stink!
Smooth show quality finish
No effort on your part other than shelling out the big bucks
Very hard to touch up, if not impossible
Does not protect against rust if you happen to get a scratch in the finish
Expensive as stink
I am very staisfied with FFR's powdercoating. IT is perfect IMO, but if I did it again, I would get it done locally. It would be a bit cheaper and I could do some frame mods that I would really like to do but now cannot for fear of ruining the finish.
I Por-15ed the frame of a '66 Galaxie (a much simpler yet bigger frame), and it looked great when it was done, almost as smooth as glass. One problem though was that while it was under a tarp for several months, one frame rail was sticking out and it turned dull and chalky (Por-15 itself is not UV stable). After doing this simple frame, there was no way I was going to do the jungle-gym FFR frame with Por-15. I knew I wasn't going to alter the FFR frame so I ordered the powder coating and I'm glad I did. Unpack the kit and start bolting it together, no fuss, no muss. Just make sure you pad your floor jack and jack stands so you don't scratch the powder coating.
P.S. Hurry up and order, I want to see a Mark II kit!!!!
I ruled out the powdercoat for a bunch of reasons...cost...problems touching up...80% of it will never be seen again. I read too much about POR-15's toxicity. I went with an obvious 3rd choice. A good quality 2-part epoxy, sprayed on in 2 coats. Imron would be a good choice, as well as many of the other industrial coatings. I used Benjamin Moore, and so far it has been impervious to gasoline and brake fluid, and it is very difficult to chip.
I went with POR-15. Next time I will get the powdercoating. I had a difficult time getting it on without bubbles in the paint. It did not and does not look good. Other than that it was just tedious. I think Eastwood makes a similar product in a spray can I would look at that.
If you have the time the POR works great. I did mine with a foam brush and it is always mistaken for powder coating. However.... you must spend the prep time!! Remove all weld spatter, totally degrease, chemically etch and let dry (really dry) $500 PC, or $50 and 20-30 hrs labor. That is the question. I believe the POR is as durable as the powder coating.
I ordered my frame bare, made some mod's to it and found a local powder coater that did a great job on the frame and about a dozen of the smaller parts, (spindles, hinges etc.) Only paid $275 including tax. You just need to shop around....
I did my frame in POR15 and used foam brushes in the nooks and crannies, but used foam rollers on the rest. It took a week, with the necessary preparation, but the finish is fine and repairable. I know POR15 is toxic, but that is a more important consideration if you spray it. If you brush or roll it, just make sure you have the garage door open. I used the Stirling topcoat and after several months there is no sign of UV deterioration.
Still planning my build so I have a question...what's wrong with the standard paint on the Frame? Is there some sort of long term problem where the paint degrades and flakes off? Or is it more susceptible to rust?
Or do most guys go for POR or powdercoating as an aesthetic upgrade? Just wondering. If I can get similar performance from standard paint, I'll most likely go with that. I'm a function over form kind of guy. Thanks!
I used POR15 on mine. Me and my son did the actual paint in an afternoon (one coat). Biggist problem is handling the can, if you get paint in the groove it will not seal. Good idea to buy new pint cans to store left overs. It can be hard get smooth on small tube but the 4" tubes and X-member, which is what you see, look great. I also used their gloss top coat in the engine bay (pint). Order the little bottle of thinner, it tends to thicken up while you work. I don't worry about the frame, no chips, etc.
Here is a picture of my frame sprayed with POR-15. I used about a quart ($34.95). It took about 30 minutes to spray. I steam pressure washed the frame with a degreaser additive and let it sit until completely dry. Then sprayed. I think it will work just great. It looks great too. I have installed my FFR factory powder coated rear control arms and the finish looks almost the same. Most folks really could not tell the difference.
I like the results of the POR15 on my frame and other parts. It dries as hard as a rock and looks great. My frame took about 2 hours to clean (used pressure wash and solvents) and about 3 hours to paint with a foam brush. Mine was a bare frame. If you go the POR15 route order a bare frame. Do not be concerned with surface rust because POR15 loves rust. For the cost difference I'm very satisfied with the POR15.
POR 15 is a pain in the ass. Anybody will tell you the same after they have to grind it off their hands, floors, and family pets...
But, that is the route I took, and would do it again. I etched, POR15ed, and POR Top coated. I continue to work on and modify different aspects of the chassis so this was a logical solution. The Top coat is a matt finish though (I used chassis black) and the POR15 is a semi-gloss and looks great until the top coat went on...
Powdercoating is Awesome! but expensive, and doesn't repair well. (crinkle paint in a can, can almost match the finish though...)
I wish I could have made up my mind early on, done ALL the mods until complete, then powdercoat. Matter of fact, maybe there is a mod or two I forgot about. Time for the garage...
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