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· FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, bought some POR today locally ($31 a quart!) and came home tonight to try it out.

This weekend I washed my frame with strong soap & water. After it dried I sandblasted it & then sat it in the garage yesterday.

Tonight I try some POR - bubbles or fish-eyes everywhere.

Try wiping the frame down with mineral spirits. Bubbles/fish-eyes.

Try paint thinner. Bubble/fish-eyes.

Try brake clean (always works for normal paint). Bubbles/fish-eyes.

Try pure alcohol. Bubbles/fish-eyes.

Shake up the can of rustoleum expoxy appliance paint (I really like this stuff, shiny & hard). Perfect.

I guess you *must* use their etching product or just paint over really rough rust, because I couldn't get it to work at all for me. I managed to get it all off with carb cleaner & disk brake clean.

I'm headed to the powder coaters. Live & learn.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Believe me, I'm frustrated with this as I've read good stuff here about POR. And while I'm sure its me just being dumb, I have managed to fit my 4.6 DOHC into the car which required a bunch of modifications so I'm not a total idiot (my wife might argue w/me on this point!).

And I did read the step by step instructions. Step one is clean the rusty metal surface - I didn't have a rusty metal surface, I had a freshly sand blasted surface & the stuff wouldn't apply smooth at all. What step one should say (if this is correct) is: buy our cleaning and prep products no matter what the surface looks like because it isn't going to apply well otherwise.

My .02.

[ August 20, 2002, 01:45 AM: Message edited by: Ed Hubbard ]
 

· \\\M3
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Maybe I'm guessing here, because I haven't used either yet, but aren't you supposed to wash / etch the surface after the sandblasting to make sure that you remove all the residue? Ed, did you do both before and after?

Regardless, this is a step that I'm interested in, because I'll be prepping / painting my frame somewhere around a month from now. Hard, Black, Shiny surface. I've been considering spraying POR-15 with my HVLP gun (I know of safety issues from an earlier thread) but anything in a spray can sounds really really easy.

Brendan
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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I used the POR-15 on my bare metal frame. I used the marine clean and metal ready products and it worked like a champ. In fact you can even roll it on with those 4" epoxy rollers. Gives a very nice finish and very fast.

Ben
 

· Senior Member
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6,544 Posts
You didn't shake up the can did you?


I didn't get any bubbles.

I did:

Marine Clean (Wear Gloves)
Metal Ready
POR - 15 with paint brushes (Takes a while)

If you're gonna spray the stuff, go get a cheap-o sprayer from harbor freight and chuck it when you're done. I think they can be had for $16.00

I know everyone talked it to death, but be aware that the stuff has isocyanates in it and "catridge" style breathers won't filter it sufficiently for OSHA. (Just my disclaimer.) :D

Ozona

One last comment, the POR15 "flows" as it dries, my frame currently looks like grey powdercoat - that was BRUSHED on. ;) (No brushmarks tho)

[ August 20, 2002, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: Ozona ]
 

· Senior Charter Member
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I had the exact same problem. I sand blasted the frame. I used the marine clean and then the metal ready. No matter what I did I could not get it to stop bubbling. I STUPIDLY did the whole frame with the stuff because I wanted the rust protection. I also did my rearend using the same steps minus the sandblast and it turned out beautiful. I was doing something wrong and don't know what but it looked and continues to look very bad. Many hours of disappointment in that process.

Dave
 

· Professional Internet Browser
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A sandblasted surface is quite rough, but if it was layed on heavily enough, it should have been fine. I think the residue from the sand(it leavs alot of crap behind, I had problems with sandblasted surfaces and spray paint) may have been the cause. Try acetone maybe?
 

· Registered
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i sandblasted my rearend, used the metalprep, and painted the por15 with a brush, looks great , my only regret was using a brissel brush, alot of brissels in the paint, i cant even get them out, this stuff is that hard, shoulda used a sponge brush.vince
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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617 Posts
Ed,

Could it be the humidity? What is the recommended temperature/humidity range for POR. I've been waiting to paint my frame with Hammerite because it's just too damn hot and humid. The can says it should be < 85% humidity and 75 degrees.

-Joe
 

· Senior Charter Member
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337 Posts
I got the same thing with my silver basecoat. I never could get the pigments completely mixed in with the carrier. The result was fisheyes and swirls.

The instructions say not to shake the can, so I stirred for 15 minutes, then applied to a small area. Seeing the lousy finish, I stirred another 10 minutes then tried another area. I guess it never mixed very well. Next time I will empty the paint into a larger can and really mix it well. I was hindered from aggressive striiing by the completly filled quart can.

Steven
 
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