[Gary Evans]

I am looking for any tips while doing this. I rememver there being a couple of pictures of the podless dash rewire,where they traced out the circuits and what not.

I can use a common negative and positive for the guages right, then there will be just one signal wire for each right?

 

[davem]

Gary

Yes, but you should get the Helms manual for your year since color codes, etc change. Also you must make sure that you wire in a 510 ohm resistor across the engine light-it is the tickler for the alternator and with out it, it won't charge. Many of us used molex connectors (Radio Shack)so the dash would be easily removable. The female connector pins from an extra molex are also perfect for attaching wires to pins that come out of the rear of each gauge-much tighter than the butt connectors supplied by FFR. Good Luck

Dave

 

[forrest1]

I would recommend getting the car running with the complete dash pod plugged into the harness, just to be sure it all works OK. Then write down what color wire goes to what pin on which gauge.

Then, you can trace each wire, one at a time, along the pod circuit board (which was well labelled on my donor, anyway), and transfer each one to the molex connector, and run wires from the corresponding pin on the mating Molex connector to the appropriate gauge

I used a 12 pin connector, and a second smaller one when I realized that I needed extra wires for the Alternator light, horn button, clock power, etc.

Be sure to include the rsistor and alternator light as Dave said.

It really cleans up under the dash to get rid of the gauge pod assemly.

Forrest

 

[Gary Evans]

What did you do with the anti slosh module? Just soder onto the little conectors?

I have a helms and have had the car running, the gas guage has been a little sporadic at best, I am using a diffrent gas guage from my 140mph speedo pod. Hopefully that does the trick.

 

[forrest1]

Gary,

Yep, I soldered the wires onto the connector pins on the slosh module, and mounted the module circuit board on the back of the tach with silicone sealer. It works just fine.

Forrest

[ March 23, 2002: Message edited by: forrest1 ]