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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 350 miles on my car and I have a problem.....Here is the situation....When the car is running i can't put the car into gear because it is either too hard or just grinds. When the car is off it shifts great. The tranny is freshly rebuilt, new clutch, new pressure plate, new throwout bearing, and new shifter. I am thinking that the arm that holds the throwout bearing is shot because it is the only thing that is not new....I want to get the parts then just do the unstall in one day. I am thinking the tranny is comming out isn't it?

Eric
 

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12,704 Posts
Originally posted by Eric 427 Shelby:
i did adjust it...

thanks

Eric
For Clarification.. . .. . . .DID You READJUST it tonite??

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I seriously doubt its that arm. Could be your pilot bearing.

Can be a stretched clutch cable. but, if its new, it shold not be that.

SECOND QUESTION:
CAN YOU put it in gear,
push the clutch in
and crank the car,
or does it want to drive off??

earl
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In the past I have adjusted the cable's tension. When the car is off, I can put the car into get and start the car with the clutch in and it is fine and then once i get off the clutch the car moves.....wierd hu>?

Eric
 

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All your symptoms sound like a poorly adjusted clutch.

If that arm you refer to is sort of worn out, it would just make your adjustment be off.

If that arm were FULLY worn out, You would not be able to drive the car.

SOme one on the forum said the ford cluches are supposed to be adjusted very tight and actually run under a load. I always leave a little slack

lots of luck

earl
 

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12,146 Posts
Earl:
I believe that Ford release bearings are designed to run against the pressure plate all the time. It should be adjusted fairly snug or there won't be enough pedal throw to fully disengage.
 

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Eric, I'm not so sure you understand what CobraEarl is telling you. Just to be abundantly clear, when you switch over to a billet aluminum clutch quadrant, the firewall adjuster REGULARLY AND OFTEN comes out of adjustment, like every 300 miles or so. I've gotten in the habit of checking it each time I take the car out of the garage!

BEFORE YOU GO RIPPING YOUR NEW CAR APART, TAKE 15 SECONDS AND UNSCREW THE ADJUSTER ON YOUR FIREWALL ABOUT 2 - 3 FULL TURNS AND JUST SEE IF YOUR CLUTCH ACTS DIFFERENTLY. If its still acting the same you have some big problems. I'm betting with Earl.
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
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784 Posts
Eric,

Beside the obvious adjustment issue, do you have a blow proof housing? Like mc cleod or FMS (same) lakewood??? ??If so the clutch arm is probably contact the houseing. We have to grind them for more travel every time.

Phil
PS Do you have the adjustable clutch cable also? If so make sure the darn nut at the fork isnt backing out.
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
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2,854 Posts
Road Rebel you are so right.. I had/Have this exact issue. First the bolt type end of the cable on the clutch end was hitting the bell housing.. fixed that.. Then after many attempts to adjust realized the fork travel was limited due to the lack of clearance in the McCloud bell housing..

Any good tips on how to open that hole up once everything is in the car?
 
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