Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 mustang 3650 transmission. And im debating to use the hydralic clutch or go to the mechanical clutch. Since the kit came with the clutch adjuster and clutch cable. So anyone who how to convert this transmission to mechanical clutch. Also does anyone know what parts are needed to make the hydralic clutch work. On a budget so trying to find out what would be most cost effective.
 

·
Mark 3.1 (Sold)
Joined
·
894 Posts
"So anyone who how to convert this transmission to mechanical clutch."

Does this year 3650 come with the hydraulic throw-out bearing, and you want to convert to mechanical throw-out arm and bearing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
926 Posts
X2 with Wayne on this one. As far as doing this on a budget…. I did a lot of watching of the classifieds section of this site and E-Bay to find the parts I was looking for and I made some of my own as well. The end results for me concerning the slave cylinder / bell housing (or just about anything on this matter) was Mike Forte (one of the venders here on the site) for what I needed to finish the job. Give him a call and tell him what you have and where you want to go with it, he will set you on the path you need to get it done.
Good luck with your build and remember to have fun with it. I know from experience you can sure get lost in all the different things that are out there to do to these cars. And if you are looking for something specific, don’t forget to post it on the “Parts For Sale / Wanted” part of this site. Some one here may have just what you are looking for.
Cheers
:001_tongue::cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, the trans has the hydralic through out bearing. Ive been told hydralic is great when working. Im running the willwood pedel box that came with the complete kit. Its a all black pedel box. What all parts will i need to make it work. Pictures please would help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,307 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Go hydraulic no breaking clutch pedal easier to do. Easier on left leg.I used a setup from RAM.Works great with there double disc setup on the TKO 600.I think they have one for the 3650 too.
 

·
Mark 3.1 (Sold)
Joined
·
894 Posts
So you already have the hydraulic throw out bearing so all you need is the master cylinder and associated inter-connecting tubes/hose. The only question I have is what is the correct Master cylinder bore size to match the Ford hydraulic TO bearing.
The master cylinder drops right in to the Wilwood pedal box. Some Wilwood MCs come with fluid reservoirs, then you would only need the inter-connecting pressure lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
I'm using the stock pieces with a custom set up. See my build thread here. It's about 1/2 way down the first page:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/269009-mk3-1-7076-build-thread.html

Get this line linked below. It connects to the transmission fitting to use the all the stock stuff. I'd imagine you can get a fitting on the other end to match up with your Wilwood stuff. That will take some work on your end measuring thread sizes/pitches.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fa...wheels/282564-those-using-05-t3650-trans.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
926 Posts
I’m not sure what the FFR supplied peddle box looks like, but the one you will need for the hydraulic clutch looks like this. (Note the 3 sets of Master Cylinder mounting studs) The master cylinder is sold separately. As pointed out earlier, what size Master Cylinder you will need for the Ford Slave Cylinder is about anybody’s guess. Call Mike Forte, he may know just what you need. I have a 97 F150 and the Master on it isn’t very big so I’m pretty sure it’s not going to be a large bore master. I’m using a 7/8” Master myself, but I’m using an aftermarket slave cylinder. If you need a remote reservoir for a master cylinder, let me know, I have an extra one laying around I would let go cheap. Lines are pretty much what you want from your local parts house. You can do the steal line out then braid, or braided all the way out.
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
391 Posts
If you have the wilwood pedals from the complete kit it isn't that hard to do. You will need to get a master cylinder to use with the pedals. I am pretty sure the pedal set that FFR sends will take the third MC, so you should be all set with that. I am using a .750 diameter MC with mine, the mustang uses a 19mm MC which is pretty much the same size. It works ok, but I want to change mine to a larger diameter, it has too much travel and I had to adjust the clutch pedal much higher then the brake pedal. The pedal ratios must be different.

The hoses are a little bit of work but not too hard. The throw out bearing had a ford quick disconnect type fitting, so I didn't even try to work with it. From inside the bell housing you can completely remove the hose from ford and you are left with a bubble flare fitting. I will have to look up how I did it, it wasn't too hard to hook up, but I ended up using a couple adapeters and fittings. I will try to find the part numbers that I used and put a list up to help you.

Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
The throw out bearing had a ford quick disconnect type fitting, so I didn't even try to work with it.
The MCL-139251 comes with the fitting you need at the trans and 36" of braided hose. The other end has a threaded female connector on it you can use for the Wilwood connection. You'll just need to figure out what fitting will work to join the two. $60 for the line and plug-and-play on the transmission side is worth it IMHO.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top