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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
posted this on SRP forum with no responses...

I am getting ready to prime my black body Coupe. This is my first major project, I painted a fender before as well as spraying most of a truck that had already been primed. I want decent paint, but not looking for show car. Red with white stripes and meatballs, nonmetallic PPG Deltron DBU base/clear. I have already bought paint. Trying to stick to a tight budget.

I have ground the seams, faired with Rage filler and sanded the whole car. I am planning on using Slick Sand primer, several coats, then a light rattle can guide coat followed by block sanding, 180 up to 400. Planning on shooting the primer in my driveway, no booth. I believe I do not have any major deficiencies in my filler, but...

if I need to, can I go back over the SS with filler?
I got some red Evercoat pigment to add to the SS, thinking it will make the red hide better. OK to do this?

For sanding blocks, I have long flexible and rigid boards and a hand sized block. For the filler I also used a pool noodle chopped up as a poor man's DuraBlock. I cut small pieces for fender valleys. Seemed to work well.

I understand I may need to reprime after blocking. I am not planning on using a sealer. PPG does not say if DBU is OK on the Slick Sand, but it seems that they OK it over their own primers that are similar to SS.

After the Slick Sand is blocked, I am planning on going straight to my stripe/meatball basecoat, putting on a bunch of layers as I have a quart of paint which is more than enough. I figure more coats should hide the reddish primer. I will then follow with a couple of coats of clear over the stripe area. Later, I will then scuff/sand clear. This will give me plenty of time to mask the stripes later, not making for too long a day. I will get low tack vinyl circles to do the meatballs. Will set up booth in garage for base/clear.

Later will do red base, remove masking and clear over everything. I hope that several coats will smooth the transition at the stripe to my modest expectations. Not sure I will wet sand the clear if it looks decent, but that can be done at any time correct?
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OK, where to start here. You overall process thought's are good but incomplete. There is substantially more to this than you have listed.
First is sanding blocks. Some of the flexible blocks are OK but the best blocks i use have been paint sticks. Small ones for rounder area's and those really big ones you get from Home depot for the longer flatter areas.
You will want to prime twice. I guaranty you will miss a bunch the first time around. I like using the Featherfill G2 primers for this and yes you can tint them around.
After you do your bodywork finished to 180 or so spray 2 wet coats of the G2 down. Use a little acetone to reduce it a little and it will spray smoother.
Use a stick and 180 grit to block the guidecoated primer. You will not make it straight using finer grit paper. Look for areas you missed, there will be a lot. You can use 3m metalglaze putty on those areas and block them smooth. Once you are sure you have the car straight lay down 2 more coats of G2. Let the primer dry for at least 4-5 days before you do anything with it.
Block it again with 180 on a stick and providing you don't find anything else, guidecoat again and sand with 600 wet.
You must use sealer before you spray any paint. It will give an even base and give a barrier between the primer and the paint. I use PPG DP for sealer. I think you will need 2 different colors of sealer. I'm assuming you are going ether white or silver on the stripes. You will need DP50 (gray) for that. Use the 402 fast hardner with it. Spray it down on the area you are striping, shoot 2-3 coats of the base down depending on what is needed to cover. Then use House of Color interface clear over the stripe color. This is a non-hardend photo active clear that you spray 1 coat down over your base color to protect it from taping or fingerprints.
Let that dry for a day or so then tape off your stripes using high quality 3m striping tape. I usually use 1/4". Make sure the tape is stuck down well and keep your surfaces clean. Once it is tapes off use a gray scotchbrite pad and go over the overspray areas around the stripes, preclean and tack for your main coat. You said you were going red so use DP74 (red) sealer. Spray 1 coat to cover and let it flash of for 1/2 hour and spray your base. Make sure you keep checking your tape lines. Once the base color flashes off, say about 45 minutes or so you can untape your stripes. Check for overspray and do any touch ups needed. Tack everything off and spray your clear. Use a good clear like PPG concept 2021. Cheaper clear don't have the UV protection and in Florida live AZ can be a problem for longevity.
Give the clear about 2 days to dry and you can use 1000 wet then come back with 1500 wet and do your polishing.

Please ask specific questions and I would be happy to answer.
 

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Peckin' away at it
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, really helps to get more details and advice.
 
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